I need a yoke for my TH350 trans. When I look online, there are quite a few different lengths to choose from. How do I pick the right length? I'm not worried about making it fit a specific driveshaft length...I have a driveshaft that will need to be modified, so that's not a factor in the decision. Also, how far from the edge of the tailshaft housing can the wider part of the yoke extend out and be safe? I have a frame section that I'd like to be able to clear.
Turbo 350 transmission yokes are 27 count spline. They also fit The PowerGlide, the 700R4, the T-10 manual and a few others. They are available with 2 or 3 different size U-joints. The 1310 is the most common and pretty strong. There is also a 1330 and 1350 U-joint size. Depending on your rear end ... a combination u-joint may be requiresd for the rear. They are also avaible in mixed sizes. ( 1310 one side 1330 the other ) and other combinations of 1310, 1330 and 1350 . If you have the time/money ... I like to find a late model CamaroTrans Am ( 1993 to about 2002 ) with the aluminum driveshaft. I get the yoke also. I see them on eBay from 100 dollars quite often. They usually cost about the same in my local area salvage yards. I slide the yoke into the transmission and pull it out 3/4 of a inch. Then measure to the rear end yoke and have the driveshaft shortened. OR you can ( most of the time ) read the " O "ring wear on the yoke and place the yoke into the transmission to duplicate what GM did for the Camaro. You will normally be at/around the 3/4 of a inch place The aluminum driveshaft is not traditional ... but it is a improvement over the old steel ones. It is lighter and requires less to get it going and less to stop it. It also helps cut down unsprung weight ( which helps the ride ). I have aluminum driveshafts in BOTH my 1932 Fords ... I already have one for my 1949 Mercury pickup project.
Not sure I can use a Camaro driveshaft. This is going in a 52 Dodge Truck and it's a pretty long driveshaft, so I'll probably just have to shorten my original driveshaft. The Yokes I find on Summit range from 6.125" - 8.75". Not sure how to pick the one I need. Are they different sizes because the output shafts were different lengths, or do you pick one that will clear any frame supports and don't worry about how far from the end of the tranny the u-joints are?
I think I'd go with the Strange yoke for the 1310 ujoint. I don't know why they make so many different length yokes...huh.... But stock yokes were made a few different ways, the early ones were kind of thin and as short as could be, later ones were heavier at the area that holds the ujoint, and so were a bit longer.
First off, look at what u-joint size is needed at the diff end of the driveshaft. The way I build driveshafts has that. Make the rear u-joint match the front with characteristics that match a known vehicle that you can pull a year/brand/model/ minor spec to buy a replacement u-joint WHERE THE PART STORE KNOWS MORE ABOUT SOGGY HAMBURGERS AND FRENCH FRIES. Damn, did I say that? Outside snap rings on three u-joint sizes with part numbers. 1310 series, 3.469 on the outside of the yoke ears, slip yoke number 2-3-6081X. 1330 series, 3.875 on the outside too, 2-3-12051X. 1350 series with larger 1 3/16" caps and not stock in any TH350 app, 3-3-4281X. Inside snap ring slip yokes will have one part number that I know. Neapco N3R-3-6081X is the number. The snap rings locate against machined faces that measure 2 9/16" BETWEEN the yoke ears. Many years of GM cars and some trucks used a part like this with a GM part number. The first and fourth part numbered parts all measure to 5 1/2" from the tip of the snout to the center of the u-joint cap. There are some parts found in Jeep driveshafts and later GM stuff that will dispute my measurements. I don't know a damn thing about that either, I went by memory instead of notes in my well worn catalog of parts that you have to get from the salvage yard or the dealer. YOU WILL FIND Chevy pickup TH350 transmission slip yokes from the mid '70s and have outside snap rings, to be as out of balance as bad as a tire that has a large blister. Just trust me.
Thanks for the info. I measured the output shaft on my trans. It measures about 4.25" from the tip to where it bottoms out in the trans. If I need to pull the yoke out about 3/4" to allow for suspension travel, that means I need a yoke with a barrel length of at least 3.5". Is my thinking correct? Would a yoke with a barrel length of 5" be too long? That seems to be the shortest one I'm finding online. Here's an example of one: Length to center of u-joint... Dimension #1 = 5 inches Barrel Diameter... Dimension #2 = 1 1/2 inches Barrel Length... Dimension #3 = 3 5/8 inches U-joint cap diameter... Dimension #4 = 1 1/16 inches U-joint width... Dimension #5 = 3 7/32 inches Series... 1310 Spline count... 27
Pick the slip yoke part number of 2-3-6081x based on info. Also, pulling the slip yoke from being bottomed out to 3/4" out is correct. Also, the replacement slip yoke is 1/2" longer between the barrel and the new shoulder as GM stuff got newer. It now measures 5 1/2" from tip to u-joint CL. Only new on the shorter version is from new old stock from somewhere back in the '60s or a used piece. Piedmont Blues?
Thanks Patrick. Yes. http://www.piedmontblues.org/ I met the guys who run the site above and help promote the annual piedmont blues festival last night at the weekly open mic thing here. I just started playing in public and am trying to improve my chops (and get this damn truck done too).
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