The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 56KUSTOM, Apr 20, 2013.
Easy out just slips.
Hit it with some heat, then "tap" the easy out with a hamber and try again
Try tapping a torques drive into it if you have one close in size to the inside diameter.Don't go to big because you will be forcing metal out as you drive it in,but I have had sucess using them.
Use a left hand drill bit in the tap drill size for the thread, probably 1/8 NPT or 1/4 NPT (pipe threads). When the drill gets near the bottom, the reverse action combined with the weakened fitting will spin it out..works for me Good luck, Buford
Maybe a plumbing ease out.
Is your easy out tapered? You can go up to the next size. What material is the broken nipple? You may consider going to a hex nipple when you finally get it out.
All "ez outs" belong in the trash. I have seen more of them break off and cause more problems than they were trying to cure. The #3 reply above it may work. I would never use a drill bit or any other cutting tool that will drop bits and pieces into the engine. Tapping an old flat tip screw driver that fits tightly into the opening miight do it, along with vise grips on the shaft to add torque. Apply any heat before anything is inserted. Every time you chew up the opening makes it more difficult. Go slow and think...really think before you drive anything into the opening. Perhaps get a friend who has more good experience with this sort of thing to help. And, again, think!! Best of luck. Report progress please.
IIRC , aren't most sending units die-cast ? If so , be very careful using heat as it will melt very easily. Tapered easy-out is what I'd try first .
The left hand drill will work. You could get a vacuum near the hole to suck out any debris or put some pressure on your oil system (with a pre oiler?) to push any filings out of the hole while you are drilling. Been there, done that.
Ask ten people the same question you'll get ten different methods!!! Ask the hamburger and you'll get thousands!!! Quality tools provide quality results!!!left hand threaded drills are the best!! Some times the bit will even take it out!! If all else fails drill and retap the hole.
As flatheadguy said why would you be drilling into the oil passage of a running motor? If it's completely apart that's a different story.The problem with most ez outs is they are tapered and as you tighten them into soft metal it pushes the metal outward making it tighter.You are never going to suck those chips with a vacuum.
As flatheadguy said why would you be drilling into the oil passage of a running motor?
Nobody said to do this on a running motor. Where did that come from???
Actually, drilling it with the engine running would be messy but it will push any debris out. I've drilled several out. First I use a needle tip on a grease gun to fill the port below the broken piece with grease. Then drill the piece out. Tap the threads to clean the remaining pieces out, start the engine for a few seconds to push the grease and debris out and install the new unit.
The people who break easy outs are those without enough common sense to know how to use them and how hard to turn them. If a bolt is seized in a hole and you broke it off trying to turn it out, an easy out won't help unless you do something to relieve the seizing which should have been done before twisting it off. Most easy outs are made for use in steel and tend to slip in softer metals. For brass, aluminum or other soft metals, I use 3 or 4 sided removers. You can make one by grinding a bolt tip into a triangle shape. Left hand thread bolts can also work well but not many people have them.
Ok I'll bite, how would you use a pre oiler, or better yet why would you use a pre oiler on a motor that was apart.If it's apart you would just wash and blow out the oil passage.
In my experience the four sided easy outs work well on broken off pipe fittings. I have never had much luck using the tapered twisted easy outs in anything. I usually just weld a washer and nut onto broken bolts.
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I'm wondering if the EZ out is bottoming out in the oil passage.
engine man is the man...
Oil pressure 'doubtful'.
Imagine, if you will...The oil pressure switch was installed with liquid palium as a sealant.
L.P., as everyone knows, is a catalyst for oil and steel when surfaced with cast iron!
This could cause a 'welded-like' situation...
Naaah, doubt if he could get Palium...
Use the left hand drill bit.
Ez outs, but there are different types. Always try to get the biggest one you can (even if you have to drill the hole bigger). If it's really stuck use heat.
These work OK but can break, so go easy with plenty of heat and Penetrating oil.
These work better and are less prone to breaking.
I use these at work and have yet to break one (even the small ones, but they're Snap-on).
Wouldn't heat just melt the brass way before the cast iron expands?
Got a picture of what you are working with ?
If it's brass then yes, some sending units aren't brass. The square ones grip brass pretty good.
Wow Larry, you're not having much luck, try this thread.
I don't know what the sending unit looks like but assume is has a head for a wrench. Sears has several sizes of sets of reverse sockets used for removing damaged nuts and they work great. Other tool vendors may have them also.
Sorry I don't know exactly what they are called offhand. I own a set and was looking at the variety of sets at a Sears store Saturday.
Here is what I am talking about. There are more options available on sizes.
Buy the whole kit it comes with 25 extractors. I believe there is one company makes them for the rest. Here is one the is about 1/3 the price of snapon
Spark Eroder !
I believe Hanson makes those and they get re-labeled and sold as snap-on, Mac, etc.
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Thanks for all the help guys! We ended up drilling it and caving in the sides.
Thanks for the update. Glad you finally got 'er licked. I was wondering how you'd end up doing it.
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