I am progressing on assembling the parts I need to build my 41 Chev truck as a pickup. The short version is I am putting the truck in my picture on a 42 3/4 ton chassis. It will retain a I beam and run a 261 engine. For the long version please go here https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-story-of-my-truck-41-chev-long-read.1195381/ In a previous thread https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/school-is-in-chev-parallel-front-end-setup.1196057/ I learnt a lot about parallel spring front ends. I needed to find a wide I beam so the wheels will fill out the fenders. I have purchased an I beam that I think is out of a 70's international truck. It has 12 1/8" drums with a 8 stud on 6.5 PCD that means I should be able to find a range of wheels. It has enough room on the pads to drill it so it will have the same spring centers as the original truck. The advice I received was that cross steer is a big steep up. I would like to go that way but not sure how to achieve this. It may be a little more complex as I am in Australia and therefore right hand drive. A lucky coincidence is that the Chev steering arms will bolt onto the International stub axles. To complicate things some more Australia is a bit more restrictive with what we can do. I am happy for guidance on this. This axle did not come with steering arms. If the 70's 2WD internationals were cross steer that would be handy to know and make life easy. So the question is how is the best way to achieve cross steering on a 1942/1 Chev? Thanks Steve from down under
I'm not clear on why you don't want to use a normal side steer truck setup. It worked on a whole bunch of trucks from the 20s-60s.
Get one of these for the passenger side of your tie rod and look for a suitable Australian steering box.
Typical beam axle with cross steer has a Panhard rod across the front parallel to the steering to prevent bump steer. You don't need this with the drag link parallel to the spring if the drag link is set up right, which it will be from the factory. The rule is that a leaf spring acts like a solid rod 3/4 of its length and this is the length the drag link needs to be. I don't know how critical this is, as all trucks don't follow this rule.
the 4x4 guys do this a lot it articulates better. you probably dont need that for your application though look at 4x4 style drag links, there are lots of aftermarket style one that use rod ends or heim joints. The steering link can be added to a drag link or at the steering arm.
N Nice solution, but be advised of Aussie regulations at their inspection station: Very narrow on acceptance of 'aftermarket designs', spherical rod ends would be right in there...
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