Technical How much side flex is normal in a triangulated 4 Link?

Yes to the bit of play from me too. I have nearly a decade behind me building drag race and street suspensions. I didn't read every reply so if this was covered, well OK. I used to hear, "...not a race car, just for the street..." which is the bat signal for build the livin shit out of the mounts and such. No railroad tracks on drag strips, right? Pot holes? Speed bumps? Nah, and if so I'd find a better track, but I digress.

Any plans of gussets on the mounting tabs? The one in your vid, I'd cap it about 1/2 way up from the housing, and that cap would be flared at the bottom to give it addl grunt for unseen bumps and road hazards. Every mile is a rough pass down a shitty drag strip. You can't over do in that regard. .100 steel would be fine, it'll tie both tabs together nicely and shape easy too. More than you asked for, I know, just throwin it out there.

 

I'm curious as to what "track cars" , Oval? Dirt?

I'm not questioning the accuracy of lasers.........You have picked up fabrication tolerances.
There are a lot of variables with a watts link that could put it slightly out of whack.
[slightly different length links, or offset in the bellcrank, or mounting heights, etc etc]
It is very easy to make a watts travel in a "J" or "S" path by moving the mounting pads and altering the lengths of the arms so one arcs differently

You can get a sandwich plate made to go between the housing and the backing plate [and use longer bolts]
Use the gasket as a template but make it 1/2" oversize around the outside PLUS laser cut a mounting tab at the top [or bottom] and gusset it back to each side. Drill a hole in the tab and bolt a heim joint through it with a nut each side.

If seen this done on a budget Ford Explorer 8.8 conversion into a 4th gen Camaros where they needed to mount a torque arm.

If you use studs ,you and still remove the backing plate, And the heim joint [with 2 nuts] make it easy to adjust pinion angle

 

Hi, just came across this thread... there's a lot of good info here and I won't wade into the discussion about triangulated vs parallel etc. Well, maybe two sentences: You will likely be happy with either kit installed correctly and safely on a street driven car. The only way you'll be able to tell the difference is if you swap it out for the other one, which is relatively unlikely.

I can't tell for sure if it's our kit from the video. I'd be able to tell 100% by the welds, if you can post a picture of any weld on the kit. We also supply our kits with thin nylok nuts, and the video shows a full height nut. Are both bushing halves installed in the adjuster?

 

How is that bar mounted on the front? Lippy