How much should a rebuilt flathead sell for?

I wanted to pass this question around and see what the consensus was as to how much a "rebuilt", a "running", and a "rebuildable" flathead ford motor is really worth.

Now before anyone jumps my case or tries to look more intelligent than me, I know that there are many versions of the flathead motor and that they can be found for sale in many states of repair or disrepair all the way from frozen solid boat anchors to blown or high compression racing motors.

It seems though that most of the ones that are available to purchase are either "won't turn over", "will turn over, but don't know if it will run", "original running condition", and sometimes "fresh rebuilt"

To make this thread useful, lets assume a few basic examples in both 8BA models and 59A models

----- frozen but complete:
----- doesn't run but will turn over:
----- running but not rebuilt:
----- fresh rebuild few or no miles:

Ok, so everyone chime in and let me know what you think each of these is worth.



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With all the experience on this forum, there have got to be some guys who can give some input to this thread.

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Depends on a lot of things. Location, availability, desire of the buyer to just HAVE that flatty in the back of his truck.

I bought 3 motors in a deal to build my flatty. All 49-53.

One totally complete, stock, air cleaner to pan, belts, clutch, fan, generator, starter, etc. EAB heads. turned over by hand. Oil nice and clean on the stick. Guy said it ran good.

Second motor 8BA heads, no flywheel, plug holes filled with grease for protection. No intake. Had a pan and water pumps. No belts.

Third motor no heads, no pan, had water pumps.

I paid $400 for the lot. I thought I got a screaming deal.

Pete

 

I paid 1000 for the freshly rebuilt flatty (8BA) in my truck, came out of a 52 ford, radiator to tranny. I paid 500 for a rebuildable 8BA with a 4" Merc Crank and tranny. I paid 1000 for a 8BA with tranny that turned over but hadn't run in years soooooo..... But I sold a 59 AB with Offy Heads and 3 pot intake for 600 bucks after a machine shop quoted me 1500.00 in machining fees block was pretty cracked-up. I've had good luck with the 8BA's.Hope this helps, happy hunting.

 

Ooops that last one was 100.

 

Every time I see the question, "What's a flat head worth?"
In my mind I want to answer, "How high is up??"

Kevin lists the "starters."
Conditions that affect the beginning of finding; then re-building.
Then finally equipping a flathead with various accessories the owner has decided he (or she) wants.

Keeping in mind the flat head engine stopped being produced by Ford over 50 years ago - although if you have VERY deep pockets; there are now reproductions available -
FINDING a good block is now becoming the most difficult part of the equation.

How badly worn is it?? (has the engine been over bored past safe rebuild limits??)
Are there major cracks in cylinder walls??
Has the engine been left with water in the lower part of the water jackets; and frozen?? (this usually breaks the pan rail off)

You start your question by listing several scenarios ...

"To make this thread useful, lets assume a few basic examples in both 8BA models and 59A models

----- frozen but complete:
----- doesn't run but will turn over:
----- running but not rebuilt:
----- fresh rebuild few or no miles: "

Any or all of the above may result in a GOOD block; OR a piece of scrap.

For example. I agreed to purchase a "C69A" (Canadian equivalent to the US "59A") engine. I was told it was a "fresh re-build; 330 miles on it" - I even drove the car that it came in, around the fellows property. Slight amount of smoke out the tail pipe which he explained was because it hadn't been broken in yet.

My condition of - "How much I would pay for the complete engine." was based on - after the engine was pulled; I would remove a head and the intake manifold to make a further inspection.

To make a long story short; there was SO much internal damage - broken rings, (ridge not removed) cam lobes almost flat, scuffed pistons, cylinder walls SO BADLY scored- a couple of the broken ring fragments had gotten down beside the pistons, plus measuring the bore showed it had been bored at least TWICE! (.060)

LARGE deck cracks (fix attempted with epoxy) ...
THEN, I pulled the pan to discover two cracks at the center main bearing web.
RESULT - another boat anchor.

Now ... the "flip side" is a block that I actually hauled out of a lake that was being used as a "boat anchor." Cost, a box of beer. Condition; it's sitting on my engine stand after having it magnifluxed, sono checked, and only needed .020 over bore.

So ... "How far is up??"

 

"Rebuilt" varies greatly.

Is it demonstratable?
Are their receipts, or just a fresh coat of paint?
Is there a warranty? ie seller is reputable and local
Is the seller a ham handed moron or clean cut and smart?

And there's the other cost driver-
How bad do you need it??????????

 

It6's been a while since i actually bought a flatty,but it depends on the seller.A non runner is worth nothing.
Maybe ,as mentioned before a starting price of $50,which is really just to make the seller feel happy that the engine wasn't just given away.
A runner,well it depends on a one or two things,does it run good? ( start at $1000) or is it a typical flatty with burnt valves,broken rings and no oil pressure?. ( ..again not really worth anything).
Any engine should be considered on the basis of being just a rebuilder and nothing else,in which case you are up for cleaning ( $$$) and machining (!$$$$!) .Then there is the matter of Pumps ,heads,maybe the rods are worn ($$) ,8 new pistons,16 valves,springs,guides, a better cam maybe,then theres fitting those valves.plenty of work there for a competent machine shop.
Unless you buy from reputable source every flatty purchase will need all of the above,and by reputable , I mean a known rebuilder who puts a guarentee on his work and that's where the engines costing thousands come in.
..it's the old story "... how long is a piece of string?..."

 

On the high end of the spectrum, a buddy of mine just did a no-holds-barred rebuild on the engine in his '49 Merc woodie. Navarro heads, new Strombergs, Scat crank, EVERYTHING new -- and everything plated and polished. It's a sight to behold. It was also nine grand in parts alone.

 

I sold a 59A two years ago, ran but poorly, for $500. I guaranteed it was rebuildable and the new owner successfully rebuilt it. My guarantee was, "If you tear it down and find it's not rebuildable, return it and you'll get your money back."

I have a friend in OKC who has built two flathead engines and has $10,000 in each one. They are built absolutely right and have some speed equipment on them. He cut no corners. So I guess price would depend on what condition the engine is in, which would mean finding out about the internals, etc. There's a lot of "rebuilt" stuff out there that consists of rings and a gasket kit.

If you're looking to buy one without tearing into it before buying it, ask for a guarantee that it's rebuildable, or don't pay any more than you're willing to lose for a boat anchor. Just my two cents.

 

I had a complete rebuild done on an 81A motor, after testing three blocks that I supplied, the motor engineer offered me one from his treasure pile, perfect block, never bored, then we started to spend real money real fast. My philosophy is this, buying the cheap thing usually turns out to be buying the dear thing because the cheap thing couldn't do what it was bought to do.
Eight and a half thousand later I had an engine, one I am proud of and probably better built than the original. And don't I feel good when people who know comment on how nice it is.
Spending a little more with a reputable builder is wise, I know the motor has been built as well as can be for a stock engine, and, if anything goes wrong I have an engineer who will stand by his work.
Now if all you have to do to achieve piece of mind and value for money is to spend a little more money, then that is money well spent.

 

Detonator,Arkiehotrods and FE26 present some good price parameters on the (real) cost of a flathead, they are not cheap if done correctly (stock or modified ).
When it comes to bore size, a flathead can be sleeved ( providing the block is not cracked ) for $700.00 - $900.00 with much a better alloy material than Henry used!
So what is it worth? How bad and how soon do you NEED it?

 

I sold my 50 Merc flathead for $1500. Not rebuilt, but this was the best running flathead ever. I had that thing in 100 degree traffic more than a few times and it never rose past 190 degrees. Oil pressure was great, just hummed along in a custom Merc and pulled down a ton of miles flawlessly. I will prolly never own another flathead that nice.

 

Paid $500 for '50 Merc. engine with complete rolling chassis. (OD tranny etc.) 77K on engine. Was almost a shame to rebuild.

 

It is probably a very nice motor, but to me, 9K in parts,plated and polished, is not hot rodding.

 

True, an over bored flathead CAN be sleeved, but what happens if the block you chose happened to have a "core shift" - cylinder off center - and the machining needed to sleeve, opens up a water jacket??

Yes, their are "wet sleeves" - ones that replace the cylinder wall - but you would be ADDING a possible $1000.00 in front of the prices you show above.

Those blocks are the ones I avoid!

 

Btt