Hot Rods How much does a hot rod weigh?

G heads pocket port and a good street preformance cam and springs 9.5 compression headers should get you in 1 hp per cube range. Actually that Edelbrock intake is one of the better old school intakes also run 60 up tube style pushrods much lighter and stronger. With good tires the light wheel will most likely hurt your times. With 1/8 mile traction and 60 ft times are more important than HP.

 

My Henry 1932 cabriolet highboy with flathead v8,gm 5 spd,9 in Ford rear,Halibrand wheels and no deck lid or side glass with no fabric top weighs. 2160 with full tank of gas.

 

My Bantam (V6 Ford, C4, 8 inch) rolled across the scale today at 1660.

 

Mine, steel body, flathead V8 is right at 2000 lbs.

 

Do you have pictures of the bantam? I would love to see it!

 

I have a picture of it!

 

My '30 coupe, all steel, 3" chop, 3" channel on custom built frame, no fenders no hood, 16 gall. fuel tank, Y-Block with C-4, and 9" rear with me and a full tank of fuel weighed at the d.o.t. scales weighed 2650. I weigh @190

 

The challenge of a fast street car is resolving all the conflicts that arise out of opposite design considerations. The two big ones which spring to mind are suspension tuning and gearing. Both can be solved with application of cleverness, but you can make a career out of doing even one of them really well.

Gearing, you want short gears for racing and tall gears for living in the real world. The usual way around this is one or more overdrives, of which many arrangements are possible. If you're going automatic, keep in mind that a well-chosen converter can be worth more than one extra gear on the low end, that converters can be locked up, and that the lockup action can be controlled in all kinds of ways.

Suspension tuning, the conflict comes from parallel ladder bars turning the rearend housing into a huge anti-roll bar, which gives rear lateral weight transfer you don't want in real life. But there is more than only that way to deal with driveshaft torque. There is more than one way to achieve zero-squat. The classic ladder bar set-up has error-exacerbating characteristics in the real world, which has bumps: any bump-induced rear lift will induce positive anti-squat and any bump-induced squat will induce pro-squat. But there are self-correcting arrangements which will lift slightly until it sees zero-squat and stay exactly there as long as there is torque.

It takes ingenuity, and that is what makes a well-thought-through hot rod so fascinating.

 

Anybody tell me how to achieve that satin finish ? Is that primer, satin paint or even rustoleum? Getting ready to finish my project and just don't want to spend a fortune on an expensive paint job.


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My '26 Modified weighs 1750. I also build airplanes and made the car as light as possible. It has a 302/T5/8.8 with alum.heads

 

1410 lbs. flathead, 200 r4 trans, magnesium quickchange, magnesium wheels, fiberglass t body, and a very light tube chassis. Makes 200 hp, and I ran an 8.35 at just over 82 mph last weekend.

 

6 year old thread ,
This is what you can do with miss matched parts lying around ,

6 inch wide foot print tires on back ,255
bridge stones
Stock S10 rear 3:43 gear
stock case 350 with decent clutches
Stock big Vega converter 1,800
1-5/8s block huggers 2-1/4 exhaust
2 525 two barrel carburetors
NA Pump gas , 6000 rpms 33 deg total,
Kept it on safe side & rich , pretty much DDer
cheap hot rod triangular 4link,
The performance all in the heads,
2,745 gross all steel
54 on front
56 @ rear
100 mph 1/8 ,black tracking to the 400 ft
The look of 10 sec 1/8 H-R
I should add Et 6:45 to 6:80s in 1/8 ,98 to 102 street or strip every time,
Was only able to get a few pass in because of No jungle gym (rollbar)

 

My old California-licensed 3600-lb. Model A with a SBC ran a whole mile a little over 210 MPH. Oh, wait, I guess this is about drag racing.

 

Nope. You will need to be in the 350-400 horse range to run 11s.
You are going to have one helluva Y block to get you into the 11s. Malcom was running high 11s on slicks in his A roadster a few years back with a stroker SBF.

As for the question how much does a hot rod weigh that is like asking how long is a piece of string. My 40 Chevy should tip in the 2800 pound range. Its just a 327 car but its a hot rod. Anything can be a hot rod if its built right.

 

paint comes in satin.
I have a friend that is a painter that paints a base coat then plays with flattener in his clear coat. He blows some of his base coat on an old hood or fender then mixes his clear coat and keeps adding flattener until he achieves his desired result.

Hope that helps

 

Every time I picked one up it was way heavier than I thought and I dropped it immediately. Needed ice cubes to keep the blistering to a minimum.

 

'36 Willys all steel except fiberglass hood, 354 hemi, Dual Range Hydramatic, '56 Olds rear end, full interior. 2400#

 

Jumped to the end. Austin Powers comes to mind. “1 million pounds”. Carey on, sorry for the interruption.

 

I have a hot rod in the shop right now that has 100hp.

It weighs less than 1,000lbs.

I may pull out the scales and find out for sure, but I can dead-lift the front end by the axle. That would put it at about 400lbs in the front.

 

^^^^^ 1,000 pounds with 100 hp with efficient gearing
7:90s @ 86ish 1/8

12:50s @ 110ish 1/4

& I think it could run quicker with a decent, five speed transmission from a motorcycle,

 

I love the sound of a aluminum wheel engine the instant RPM and in the day they worked well because of low traction tires but today that stored energy of a flywheel can be put to use