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Projects How I built my hot rod, Model A coupe photo essay.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fry, Oct 6, 2016.

  1. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    I wanted to start a thread on my Model A coupe build. The intentions are a 5 year plan, and I’m coming up on the end of year one. With this comes a lot of progress, some mistakes, and a lot of learning.

    This is my first real build, I started a sedan quite a number of years ago, but it did not come to fruition.

    So with that, remember I’m completely amateur, and I am building this all on my own with no help from friends or mentors, etc. So hopefully there is nothing too cringe worthy.

    The end goal is to build a hot rod, I’m not building it to fit into specific time periods, stereotypes, etc. I just want to build a bad ass model A coupe. Obviously since this post is on the Hamb, that is more to where I’m leaning with the style, but depending on my skill, knowledge, parts availability, etc. not all the build will be traditional.

    So with the disclaimers out of the way, I’ll get started with the photos. Warning, there are lots.

    I had been looking for a coupe body for a few years, they are really rare around here as most people bought sedans in this area back in the day.

    I found this body on the classifieds and drove 5 hours to pick it up. I bought it from a fellow that runs a hot rod shop in Calgary. It’s a decent body, requiring normal lower patch panels. It also had no subrails which was intimidating, but was braced up.
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    Safety nestled away in the garage, the body came with a new set of subrail so I started trying to figure out how they fit.

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    After a bit of searching I found they were from a sedan and longer than coupe subrails.

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    I built a frame table

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    From there I wasn’t really sure where to go. I had ordered frame rails but they were taking forever and I had time to work on the car (which is a rarity at my house), so I put the body up on the table and cut the doors free. Where it had been previously braced the doors weren’t close at all. I started by vertically leveling the cowl and a pillars/door frame. From there I vertically leveled the b pillars and the straightened the rear end.

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    I braced it all up internally, this took quite some time to get the doors to close and the body lines lined up. Lots of bracing, testing, cutting, bracing, testing, cutting, etc. I had ordered new subrails as well for a coupe, but it had been two months and still nothing so I cut down the tudor subrails to match the coupes doors. This ended up working pretty good, I wish I had thought of it before ordering the coupe ones that I couldn’t cancel and showed up two months later.

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    Here the drivers side pretty well tuned up.

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    Random Johnny Cash/ass end picture.

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    Most of the body is pretty good but this lower support piece is gone. I made a simple little brace out of square tubing to patch it.

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    Subrails and bracing tacked in.

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    I took the body of the table as it was all square, level and had pretty good functioning doors.
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    I had patched the bottom rear panel on the drivers side but kinda did a crappy job, that will have to get redone in the future. The front patch is tacked in but the fits pretty poorly so I didn’t go any further with it. The body work stuff will wait as I am pretty crummy at that stuff. The patch panels came with the body so I have no idea who made them but they aren't great.

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    It had now been over three months and still no frame rails, getting pretty antsy to do some work a made a frame to my bracing and flopped the body on the cowl. I hadn’t figured how I was going to mount the body yet. I also had an idea of maybe doing a flat floor underneath. So I sprayed the subrails in weld through primer and made some 16 gauge plates to box them.

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    At this point I got the center point of the rear wheel wells and made feet for where the body holes would be based on the wescott drawing. I figured I would just run some rubber or aftermarket body mounts. I had want the body to be channeled a bit so the cross rails are flush at the top of the subrails, instead of underneath. With the flat floor and the channel I needed the body mount feet as it would sit way lower than I anticipated and the frame would hang up on the sides of the body. The plan is to leave it for now until I got the transmission mounted, shifter, etc. One all that is figured out and the top floor is done, I’d like to flip it back over and finish the flat floor underneath. Or I may just trim it and leave it has boxed sub rails and cross rails. I will cross that bridge when I get there.
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    Stogy and kidcampbell71 like this.
  2. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    [​IMG]



    Chapter 2 Frame
    Well the rails finally arrived, a record 4 month wait. At this time I was incredible jealous of you Americans and your free, quick shipping. As you can tell by the pictures these needed work. I used a torch and a hammer and dolly to get the wrinkles out and trimmed them and even two inches as they were all over the place.

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    I got the rails squared and tacked to the table and started pinching them.

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    I used a lot of clamps and flat bar to keep the soft rails straight. Also the key is to go slow and skip around.

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    At this point I had to pull the frame horns even as the two rails weren’t anywhere near from ASC.

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    When I pinched, I cut pulled them in where I needed, braced and welded the top rail and the inside of the bottom rail. There are a lot of pictures, because it is a tedious job. There isn’t much to the rails and they are very soft and you don’t want to warp them.

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    With the pinch mostly out of the way I sat the body on to see if I screwed up… Nope fits pretty good.

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    With the test fitting looking good I started boxing the rails. I wanted the rails “step boxed” so it doesn’t look too modern. I also cut the frame off the table and set it up at ride height as far as degrees of rake. This was a total guess pretty much. I compared to the model A’s that I liked and figured a 2” rake from the of the frame sweep to the rear would be about right.

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    After the boxing was all done, and the frame at the right degrees I installed the engine. I picked up a Borg warner ST10, bolted on the back of the mock up sbc (boo) and set it in place. I know, I know sbc suck. I had every intention of going with a neat mill, but at the end of the day I thought it was just going to over complicate the build right now. Maybe once its all together and driving I will change it out down the road. I am trying to keep it simple and affordable as to not get overwhelmed at this point. Anyway, to get away from the excuses back to the build, I made simple engine mounts from angle iron, the biscuits were from my failed tudor build.

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    My high tech engine leveling system.

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    I picked up a 9”, spent some time straightening, leveling and setting the pinion angle.

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  3. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

  4. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    I had a machine shop cut out some lower bracket for the axle, as it was cheaper and they are pretty visible. I hand made the top brackets, and they are marginal. Functional but not ascetically pleasing.

    I had spent a long time studying triangulated 4 links and figuring out anti squat this and roll that. From all the calculations this setup is a safe bet. I stuck the bars out front of the axle as well like recommended.

    (the brackets are full circle as you can see the rest sitting on the table)

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    I didn’t want the 4 link bars as low as they are but, for proper function this was the best design. I think they look alright though.

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    I wanted to build a “k” member but it looked pretty clunky.

    So I decided to go with tubing. Nobody around my town bends tube, or knew what the difference between tubing or pipe is, so I had to go to the city and pick up a bender and some tubing.

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    I had the idea in my head to mount the upper bars to some tubing.

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    Then copied the bend for the front and made some long ones for the bottom, so they could help mount the tranny.

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    I had to make a tranny mount, I had a couple stock rubber block type bushings the came with the tranny, but were really tall and like I said I don’t want a bunch of crap hanging below the frame.

    So I bent some tubing, cut a ¼” slit in there and made a bracket.

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    Ordered some tube bushing ends

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    You can see when its mounted that is like 1” shorter than what the factory block would be. Looks pretty slick.

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    . I had some extra tube bent already and wanted to support the middle a bit more

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    Maybe a bit over board, but I just seemed like not enough meat in the middle.

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    Last edited: Oct 6, 2016
    Tim_with_a_T likes this.

  5. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    I had some brackets made up for my upper bar mounts, but the made them all wrong, so I had to hand cut some brackets for the upper bar front mounts.

    Getting the degrees dialed in. I picked up this digital cheapy angle finder as those mechanical dial ones suck. I like it a lot, works awesome.

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    At this point I flipped the frame over and welded everything I couldn’t get to before.

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    Including the front and rear pinch cuts.

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    I ordered some dimple dies and finished off the mounts

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    Tim_with_a_T and Stogy like this.
  6. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

  7. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

  8. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

  9. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,015

    belair
    Member

    WOW- if you want it bad enough, you will find a way. My hat's off to you.
     
  10. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    This is cathing up to pretty much where I’m at almost, I have to make a order for parts in the states, I need to save up some coin here, get some axles, steering, brakes, etc. So I am currently doing the busy work, odds and ends. I am working on the rear subrails and floor. With a couple of the hot rod accidents lately I wanted to install a roll bar. To do this I wanted to have the roof at the right height.

    Remember when I said I wasn’t a body man, well that hasn’t changed. I had full intentions of getting someone else to chop it, but like they say, idle hands do the work of the devil.

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    I smartened up this time and used the old pieces to get the welder and myself dialed in.

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    Pie cuts on the front cowl

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    Pie cuts on the rear

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    This is the best way I could figure out for the front.

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    Actually didn’t wreck the top, pretty happy with it.



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    Last edited: Oct 6, 2016
    Stogy likes this.
  11. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    The wife and kids loving the new look

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    With the chop mostly done I’ve started on a roll bar.

    I wanted it as far away from my head as possible, obviously. I notched out the seam and welded it up on both sides.

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    Test fitting, I could have went with small tubing I’m sure, but I only have 1” ¾ die so I’m using .120 wall DOM. It fits fairly tight up against the back wall.

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    The plan isn’t some NHRA approved roll cage, something tied into the body to stiffen it, and heaven forbid a side impact or something that I will have a bit of protection. There will also be a seat belt bar mounted to it. You can see in this pic the rear sub rails I built. The roll I didn’t want welded to the frame, I want the body removable. The subrails are also .120 wall and I added extra bolts to the frame. I will have supports from the rear that attach and a couple of cross bars for seat belts. I believe it will serve the purpose I intend for it


    [​IMG]
    I attached the body seam to the roll cage with some dimpled plates to keep it ridgid.

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    This is where it stands pretty much as of today.

    Like I mentioned I need to get a list together and order some parts out of the states and pick them up down there. It will probably be the spring until that happens. In the mean time I have to pick up a sheet metal brake and make some floor panels. Finish the chop and roll bar, etc.

    Lots of work ahead, but I’m happy with the progress so far in year one.

    Thanks for reading, I will try to update as I go, but progress will probably be pretty slow for a bit.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2016
  12. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    Also a cheap plug but I do post on instagram @frycustoms if anyone cares, as there is less filler when I post there, only the good pictures.:D
     
  13. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,262

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    very impressive - few post any pics of their build, and very few ever take/share as many as you have - Thanks
     
    Fry likes this.
  14. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    WOW MAN!!!!! For not knowing what youre doing or having any help you've hit a home run, hell, even if you had help and were a pro you've hit a home run. Id be damned proud of that frame for sure
     
    Fry likes this.
  15. Rex_A_Lott
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,155

    Rex_A_Lott
    Member

    Nice. Thanks for the build thread. :)Good Luck
     
    Fry likes this.
  16. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    Thanks guys I appreciate the comments. It's tough to put all your work out there for everyone to see, and not just the shiny covered up, finished product, not to mention putting together a post like this is a lot of work. So getting positive responses is appreciated, thanks.
     
  17. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,355

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Color me subscribed. Lots of interesting stuff here - that I might "liberate" for my 29 if I can! Gary
     
    Fry likes this.
  18. Nice work, keep at it, I'm keen to see how this comes out.
     
    Fry likes this.
  19. You're doing great, Thanks for taking the time to document it.
    (What's Johnny so mad about? lol)
     
    Fry likes this.
  20. sharpmark
    Joined: Jan 25, 2008
    Posts: 91

    sharpmark
    Member

    enjoying this thread - great work and great pictures. looking forward to more.
     
    Fry likes this.
  21. Joliet Jake
    Joined: Dec 6, 2007
    Posts: 540

    Joliet Jake
    Member
    from Jax, FL

    I'm diggin it nice work! The best pics are the ones that show your family having fun! My kids never got into it, the grandsons are another story, at 3&6 they love "driving" the "hot rods"!
     
    Fry likes this.
  22. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    Thanks guys. Appreciate the comments. My youngest is 2, always wants to see "dads hot rod", or "super hot rod" as its sometimes referred to. Haha.
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    hfh, LostBoy, Stogy and 6 others like this.
  23. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,530

    aaggie
    Member

    Great job and you should be proud of the work. That frame should be strong enough to run any engine you end up with.
     
    Fry likes this.
  24. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 988

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    That's the plan, I want this to be a bit of a cruiser right now, but later on when I build something more family friendly I wouldn't mind swapping over to a nasty hemi, or something blown and just run this around locally. Stick some cheater slicks on there. Would be a blast.
     
  25. VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,288

    VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Member

    Nice work. Love the build.

    VR&C.
     
    Fry likes this.
  26. triman62
    Joined: Sep 2, 2013
    Posts: 277

    triman62
    Member

    Fantastic work, truly an inspiration.
     
    Fry likes this.
  27. Really good job, well thought out, thanks for sharing, I'll be watching!!
     
    Fry likes this.
  28. Hotrodmyk
    Joined: Jan 7, 2011
    Posts: 2,307

    Hotrodmyk
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    WOW, just wow!
     
    Fry likes this.
  29. Me too
     
    Fry likes this.
  30. wackdaddy
    Joined: Nov 11, 2015
    Posts: 214

    wackdaddy
    Member

    Great work! Subscribed
     
    Fry likes this.

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