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Technical how good is soda-blasting?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by birdman1, May 30, 2019.

  1. birdman1
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 611

    from USA

    anyone had there car soda blasted? the sand blasting guys around here refuse to sand blast a car body. seems like some one sued them over some warped body they had sand blasted.
    sand blating sure helps on a rusted old car body.
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 42,723


    soda blasting is great for removing paint, but not so effective on rusty stuff. If we knew where you were, it might be easier to make recommendations.
    rpm56 and '51 Norm like this.
  3. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,422

    V8 Bob

    I've had good results with soda blasting and will use it again. Keep in mind it will not remove heavy rust, so paint/primer removal is what it's great at. Big advantage is the coating that prevents any surface rust as long as the parts are kept dry. A good through water wash/rinse at your ready for primer.
  4. hemihotrod66
    Joined: May 5, 2019
    Posts: 29


    I think soda blasting is better than sand...Sand is hard to get out of all the tight areas in a car body where soda will devolve with water and wash away...Will also neutralize any acids that are on the parts...Just my take...
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  5. Soda blasting works great, but it's a lot more expensive than sand blasting.

    Sandblasting doesn't have to warp sheet metal but I have seen it happen, holding the gun too close to the sheet metal or holding it in one spot for a prolonged time, that tends to heat up the sheet metal

    I prefer to do my own, a good compressor and a small pressurized pot does a good job although it is slower than a commercial sand blaster. HRP
  6. I’ve seen some adhesion issues after soda blasting.
    Blasting sheet metal without warping requires a great operator. The go to guy around here retired. So I just tell them to blast areas I can’t sand easily. STAY OFF THE BIG FLAT AREAS just do the nooks and crannies. Makes my life easier overall and he’s very reasonable. It’s hard to warp Metal with ridges, shapes and change and that’s the hard to sand stuff.
  7. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 42,723


    also the guys who do general sandblasting for a living, make money by being fast. If you are sandblasting sheet metal, you have to go SLOW....going fast makes heat, and heat warps it's no wonder they don't want to do it.
    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  8. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 2,917

    sloppy jalopies

    been years but we used sand from a CASTING co.
    fine, clean and they had lots of it... memory says we baked the sand first... HIH...
    Last edited: May 30, 2019
  9. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 22,410

    Jalopy Joker

    post pics of what you are working on
  10. jaw22w
    Joined: Mar 2, 2013
    Posts: 735

    from Indiana

    The expertise is out there you just have to find it. I had my 26 T coupe sandblasted. It came out white clean. No warpage what so ever. Complete body and fenders, $400. Epoxy primer it the minute you get it home. Can't beat SPI epoxy primer for price or performance. Check it out.
    Blade58 likes this.
  11. kabinenroller
    Joined: Jan 26, 2012
    Posts: 302


    I had a car soda blasted over 15 years ago, the body came back perfectly clean with no marks on the sheet metal, it looked like freshly stamped metal. It was prepared correctly before primer and paint and looks as good now as it did the day it was originally painted. I recommend it if you want the surface cleaned, as mentioned it does not remove rust or thick fillers.
    rpm56 likes this.
  12. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 931


    My dad, brother and I had a soda blasting business in Ca in the 1990's. Soda blasting is great, we would have people drive their car over and the soda blasting would remove just the paint. you could warp panels with too much heat and direct pressure. If we ran into plastic filler or a little rust, we would mix in a bit of sand for certain spots.
    stillrunners likes this.
  13. jdrew
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 111


    I had an OT truck cab soda blasted, inside and out. Brought it home, cleaned the metal with a degreaser and shot epoxy primer. Two years later, after all the body work and paint was completed, it started cracking and peeling off in sheets down to bare metal. My painter thinks that the soda either polished the metal and that there was not enough tooth for the primer to stick to, or left some kind of sediment in the metal and caused a reaction...we don't know. Had I gone back and sanded every surface first, then cleaned/degreased before primer, I think I would have been OK. Regardless, I will never soda blast again, it was an expensive fix/lesson.
  14. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 867


    About an hour ago I just sent my T coupe to a guy who does "wet abrasive blasting paint removal". Hopefully, I'll get back with the results.
  15. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 797

    from kansas

    Some insurance companies will no longer guarantee a paint job on repair work on anything soda blasted around here. So most body shops stay away from soda blasting.
  16. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,418

    john worden
    from iowa

    Soda blasting as well as media blasting and sand blasting are all good methods.
    The difference is in the results.

    Soda ( and glass bead) blast is more of a cleaning process for delicate materials and leaves no tooth for adhesion.

    Media (plastic) blast is just abrasive enough to strip paint and other soft materials with out harming or warping metal but leaves no tooth for adhesion.

    Sand (grit) blast depending on the material used is/is not very aggressive to the extreme of actually making holes and warping metal. It removes rust and provides excellent tooth for adhesion.

    Each method requires specific follow up measures before priming.
    OldSchoolRodz likes this.
  17. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 3,811

    Hot Rods Ta Hell

    Walnut shell as a media is also an option. If you're doing your own blasting you can sift and reuse.
  18. kabinenroller
    Joined: Jan 26, 2012
    Posts: 302


    New panels from the factory do not have a “blasted” finish to them, the primer and paint have no adhesion issues. If a soda blasted surface is prepared correctly before primer there will be no problems in the future. As I said in my last post the paint has been on my soda blasted car since 2002 with no problems.
    rpm56 and stillrunners like this.
  19. Itchy-Pit
    Joined: May 7, 2008
    Posts: 438


    Trust me on this. If you don't acid wash the residual film left by soda your primer epoxy or paint will not adhere. I have to redo my coupe. Lesson learned.
  20. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 941


    "I had an OT truck cab soda blasted, inside and out. Brought it home, cleaned the metal with a degreaser and shot epoxy primer. Two years later, after all the body work and paint was completed, it started cracking and peeling off in sheets down to bare metal."

    It could be the problem was the degreaser. Soda is soluble in water, not petroleum type solvents.
    dirty old man likes this.
  21. It’s hard to say what’s the fault and folks will blame the damn dog for a paint job screw up. Maybe it’s the media, operator, product, or not knowing or not reading or cutting corners.

    It’s a process and each step goes one after the other. Skip step at your own risk.

    Try to take a step with your right foot, skip the left foot step and take another with your right foot. Skip a step and fall on your ass
    dirty old man and stillrunners like this.
  22. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 188

    from NJ

    As far as metal prep goes I set up with Capt. Lee at Carlisle for years I never heard any complaints about his prep from anyone. I have been using metal prep since 1974. I metal prep everything. And I don't rinse it with water. It doesn't make sense to me to prep it, then rinse it with water just to have it flashrust immediately. I know that there are certain metal prep's that direct you to wipe it with a damp cloth in one hand and a dry rag any other. Love to hear your thoughts on that.
  23. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,422

    V8 Bob

    The only problem with soda blasting is misinformation. The coating resulting from soda prevents any flash rusting if kept dry. When you are ready for primer, a through WATER rinse is all that's needed; NO metal prep or any other chemical, just WATER. Some painters and shops simply do not use water, resulting in problem paint jobs.
    stillrunners likes this.
  24. dsiddons
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,320

    from Indiana

    Where are you? Dependable Sandblast in Indianapolis does a fantastic job. Keep looking

    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
  25. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,255

    anthony myrick
    from al

    soda or sand
    I always sand before coating
    80 grit DA the flat and easy stuff, 3 inch DA for smaller areas and hand sand the rest
    no problems, I have seen soda peel when primed directly over.
    I always like wiping clean steel with water. Add a little alcohol to the water and it evaporates faster and no flash rust, then followed by a wax and grease remover.
    And I have used PPGs metal prep and cleaners and they work when the steps are followed.

    bare metal prep is not hard but it does require attention to detail and diligence in following instructions
    never skip a step or assume. NEVER just follow instructions from the guy behind the counter at the paint store.
  26. Chainsaw chipper
    Joined: Nov 29, 2007
    Posts: 68

    Chainsaw chipper
    from Illinois

    We have had adhesion issues after soda blasting,We never use sand on sheet metal.Media that works the best is either plastic beads or walnut shells for sheet metal.That said you still have to know what your doing with air pressure ect. We have a business that's local that has done aluminium Packard parts with absolutely no distortion what so ever.It can be done but choose someone with EXPERIENCE.
    dirty old man likes this.
  27. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 867


    Just got back from the shockblasting wet abrasive blasting paint
    removal guy with pictures. This is a wet process that uses glass beads. Told Don the owner/operator about this current soda blasting thread and he said that the problem with soda blasting is that it gets stuck in the various cracks and seams. Don't really know much but it looks like he does good work. He's in southern Alberta if anyone is interested. IMG_1234.JPG IMG_1235.JPG IMG_1236.JPG

    Attached Files:

    irishsteve likes this.
  28. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,179


    Two things...

    1. Will a wet blasting experience lead to almost instantaneous flash rust?

    2. Sorry to be picky but blasting uses different types of mediums/media. Sand, soda, walnut, glass, plastic, etc. So media blasting is simply blasting with some type of medium.

    Class dismissed...
  29. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 867


    Really dry climate here. Humidity is just something we read about.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
  30. Blade58
    Joined: Mar 5, 2012
    Posts: 297

    from apopka ,Fl

    Several painters I know will never paint a car again that has been soda blasted ,any residue that is trapped has come back to haunt them, seen on some automotive related shows "Dustless Blasting" being used, looks good on TV ,SPI primer is the best if not one of the best, has a long"pot" life I could not believe till I used it my self and I have used some of the Top Paint systems too

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