I set them in the glove box, in case the Pertronix fails. 20 years now. I never paid much attention to points for years. Set them and forget them. It always started. It's amazing the shit I was able to ignore that never affected me in any way, that today, thanks to the internet automotive forums, the sky is falling if I for example don't immediately switch to electronic ignition. I did switch to Pertronix because I got tired of working on the Y block distributor. It's at the back of the engine and am not a contortionist. What I learned the real problem was - the distributor itself has to be in good mechanical shape when using points. The modules don't mind a little slop or clearance but a mechanical point system doesn't like any slop. But a good tight distributor, correctly curved, is the best thing since sliced bread whether running points or not. It will run noticeably better up and down the RPM and smoother idle. If you have to pass smog I bet it makes a big difference. If you get in the different manuals it's clear the feeler gauge setting is basically just a bench setting or field expedient thing so engine will start and then can be adjusted with a dwell meter. That's really what counts, the actual gap doesn't. A worn out distributor shaft with excessive axial or sideplay will make setting the gap futile, the dwell will be all over the place because a consistent gap cannot be achieved. The modern condensers are mostly No Good. It is apparently tough to make a high voltage capacitor in a small package at a price point these days. Mouser or other electronics supply houses still provide high voltage film capacitors. Try a .22uF @ 600 or 1000 VDC, it won't look original but it should last. I have a passle of old Echlin and Standard condensers that are 50+ years old that still show no leakage at 600 volts, so they used good stuff.