How do you install window anti-rattle fuzzy's?

It's like trying to put a 1/2" peg in a 1/8" hole. I'm working on my 54 F100 & the clips that
are on these door strips just don't want to go in these 1/8" slotted holes. Already totaled
one & had to reorder more. Can I cut half the clip off & is there a glue or epoxy that I can
use to hold them in place. I'm talking about the ones that go where you rest your arm when the window is down.

 

I tired doing them in the F-1. It's a pain in the ass and they don't fit right. I had the opposite problem that the holes were bigger than the clips. I gave up. I have never been more pissed in my life. I decided to leave them off since the windows are down 100% of the time when I drive it anyways.

 

Who is the manufacturer of the "fuzzies" you are using???
There are "good" ones and there are some "piss poor" ones on the market.I used fron Dennis Carpenter and were just "fair"..

 

i never use a kit. i buy them in lengths and form them, then screw them on. there still a pain in the ass though

 

I do the same and use real small self tapping screws (black) if you can find em so they disapear in the felt much nicer end result!

 

3m double sided tape, the gray tape with red backing, the good stuff.

This is the same tape they use to put modern factory emblems on with. It wont get loose.

 

That's where I got mine from. I'd classify my experience as 'piss poor'

 

i used paper clips on mine----but originally they had metal staples----shaped them like a staple---then bent the inside end to hold it in place---i found that screws look like crap---and usually stick out more than the felt strips

 

On my 50 Chevy, to hold the fuzzies to the door I used clear silicone adhesive. Note, not silicone SEALANT, but ADHESIVE. It's been on there for about 4 yrs now...still holding tight. I put the adhesive on the back of the fuzzy, held it in place with masking tape, and using the window rolled up just a bit, put pressure on the fuzzy by using some paint sticks between the window and fuzzy. Simmer overnight. Remove paint sticks, you are good to go.

 

When I did my 66 Galaxie I drilled small holes and used small aluminum pop rivets.
Once installed I went back in and used my black sharpie to color the rivet heads black so they were hidden in the black fuzz.
Not sure if there is enough room on the truck doors to do this but thought I would suggest it.

 

I'm pretty sure I'm going to use the adhesive route. Got the first set from Midfifty & the second set from LMC Truck. Both are made in China.

 

2X on this stuff, it really works. The only problem is the tape is a little thick and the fuzzies will run a bit tight against the glass.

 

ditto here

 

x3 on this stuff. The real deal. Useful all over the place.

 

Timely topic.
Was just disassembling the window garnish trim from the doors of the 40 Chrysler Coupe. The "fuzzies" were stapled on. The staples are fairly heavy and were clinched on the backside. They were troublesome to get off, but had to be removed as the "fuzzies" were rotten and wore out.
I think I'll go with the 3M adhesive or tape when it comes time for replacements as suggested, as I don't see how to accurately transfer the existing hole locations of the garnish onto some new strips; the backside is inside a curve.

And, thanks for the source info, guys.

gatz

 

There lies the problem.

 

I use the 3M weatherstrip adhesive. You have clean the area with thinner before you put a light coat on both sides that need to bond, let it get tacky, and join. Be sure its in the correct place, hold it tight for 5 minutes (I often use the window to hold it tight.)

Use the same stuff with the same procedure on the replacement rubber weather stripping. Gene

 

I use the paper clip method made as staples as Brian55lrv does--there is no danger of screw heads or pop rivets scratching the glass--use this method on 40 fords as they had staples as well on the garnishes

 

x 2

 

When i did them on my 55 the kit came with a bunch of very tiny flat head screws and a small drill bit . About 6 screws in each one , they bury in the felt and you cant even see them once tight .

 

Just remove the clips and use some small screws from the hardware store. Drill thru the fuzzy into the door one at a time. If you need to hold them in place during drilling use a small clamp. Use the Sharpie on the screw heads as needed.

 

NEVER ever buy anything like this from LMC. Especially any of their weatherstrip crap.

Ya'll are talking about using screws, but if I'm thinking of what he's talking about... it's the two fuzzys, one on each side that the window comes up and goes down through into the door. It's a short piece and it snaps in the door. I don't see how you could get anything in there to... screw, haha.

Also known as anti-rattlers? I got my kit from Dennis Carpenter.... the only problem I had was with the round part and forming it around the door/glass.

You do really have to use some pressure to get those clips snapped back in place... This was the "removal" part...looking down into the door.

Oh and this is on my '66 F100.



Both removed...

 

I think I'll get a set of small SS screws. The outside sweep attaches to the door and the inside sweep attaches to the removable inside molding. The outside sweep will be a little difficult to screw in but the inside sweep is wide open. The sweep material comes in 5 foot pieces from Rubber the Right way. After fitting the sweeps to the door each piece uses about 55 inches of material so there is a little waste. The corners are difficult to form but by putting little nips in the edge of the sweep I was able to form the corners real well. I've attached a photo of what this looks like. Thanks for your advice. And I'll get the screws tomorrow.

 

I just did mine on the 41 PU a month or so ago. I didn't use the clips, epoxied them on with 2 part JB Weld. It had both the glue and the hardener in one tube. Get the fastest drying one they sell. Use a lot of tape on the door as the epoxy will ruin your paint (don't ask). I cut up some heater hoses and compressed them to hold the pieces overnight. One piece at a time. It isn't fast but on the other hand it isn't difficult and it looks very nice when you are done.

 

I still use 1/8" pop rivets if I can get the rivet gun in there. And if the steel pin doesn't break off inside the rivet, I knock what's left out with a punch. Seems like I've never had much luck with the clip style retainers.

 

I used small flat-head pop rivets. I countersunk the holes a bit first, but the heads got pretty well buried in once they were installed. You also don't need to do that many rivets. My longest length had maybe 5 in them.

 

Having just installed some on a '64 Chevelle, and more vehicles than I care to count, my advice is to get them to fit like you want, BEFORE PAINTING!!! All of the kits I've seen are a joke, and if you go to buy a car that is all finished except for these things, expect to fight a big battle to get them to fit. IMO, small screws will hold them the best, be careful drilling around paint.

 

I've used 3/32" pop rivets and #6 x 1/4" screws where staples may be too difficult or time consuming.

 

I've done several cars, 1/8" alum pop rivets, use with a good rivet gun. I have a "long reach" Malco hand rivet gun, works great! If you use a good rivet gun, you can adjust the pressure, so the head will countersink into the "fuzzy strip" never had issues scratching glass or anything. If you use adhesive, use auto glass urethane.

 

#1 or#2 countersunk phillips sheet metal screws ,, drill em (get extra tiny bits because you will bust a few befor its over),, and put em where ya want ,,they will bury nicley and ya can get em back out ,small dia. phillips will get in there ,, tape up everything , ya got to bend/shape/trim em all , fuzzies/sweeps all need fitted ,,cars of the mid 50s and later , most of the higher quality ( money's) one fit pretty good ,, "hey these were on sale" so ya got no fittin cheap clips in the wrong place chinese crap .. yeah venting sorry after doing 30+ yrs of trimouts bosses say man those look great , why so long? customer , man those look great, why that cost so much , i bought ones that were BRAND NEW ,,, " yeah ya bought junk from the wrong people ,, not from C&G (ford) , SOFF SEAL (gm/dodge) or RESTORATION SPECIALTIES everybody else and universal < get their catalog its a must have ,, Bottom line is you just like everything else there are no "tricks" just time fittment and patience , and NEVER have collision shops do restoration work ,, real resto work is billed hourly because you have to fk with stuff and thats just how it is , im sure more than a few here have spent a entire day getting one pair of door gaskets to cooperate,, dont fib santa knows who you are lol
fabricator john
miss ya dad