I have a 1954 international with a hemi in it and the gas tank is leaking so I took it off and there are pinholes. I need some help how do you fix pinholes in gas tanks?? I can not find another tank so this one is going to have to work.
There are patch kits available, that consist of an epoxy like substance.It has two strips in it that you knead together and then place it over the leaking area. I used it in the past,with decent results. Probably not an ideal solution, but it works.
I had some tiny pinholes in my tank where the new drain bung was welded on (they claimed they TIGed it, but I know it was MIG... I'd done one tank with KREME but that crap melts in ethanol gas (says it on the can if you look close) Sealed my second tank with a product called Northern fuel tank liner. its worked like a dream. The concern I'd have with your tank, by the time you shake some chain around in it, and then acid it and get it cleaned enough for a sealer to stick you might not have pinholes, but big holes.
A radiator shop has soldered mine in the past. I'm sure you know it must be clean and filled with water before putting a torch to it. Pat
pin holes means rust on the inside. careful putting the chain inside to shake up the rust. I did and the chain tied itself in a knot!!!! I've fixed several gas tanks with bondo, it works great. clean it up on the outside and make sure its dry. put a thick layer of bondo on it and let it cure before putting gas in it.
Most older fuel tanks were terne plate (tin coating on steel) and will accept solder. As 1934coupe, above suggests, that would be my first choice as well. It would be similar to 'leading' a body repair and likely provide several years service.
If there are pin holes the rust is probably very prevalent inside. I've used JB weld in the past for a very temporary fix. I wouldn't rely on it holding up to our present blends of gasohol for much more then a "get er home" type fix.
I would have the tank either boiled out, or dipped in a caustic solution [many radiator shops will offer this service] and find out how bad the rust really is. You may need to have a section welded in if the metal is too thin, or too many holes. ---John
How many holes I'm how big of area? Weld a patch in the damn thing. Just use all the gas tank welding safety precautions
I did a tank 40 years ago with bondo. I found the car and bought it back. the same tank and still had gas in it. can't argue with results.
radiator shop is good for light rust on inside (i've done this on 2 diesel trucks) but if it's bad you might want to seriously think about starting over with a new one. rather than band-aiding. probably have to modify another make I doubt you can find International parts anywhere.
Never heard of using a chain. Ive always used rocks and water and put it on a teeter todder (see saw, kids playground) and rock it back and forth.
I had this same problem, on a f250 with the tank behind the seat. I used electroysis to clean the tank (no baffles). then gas welded a pinhole shut. i should have then Red-koted the inside but i didnt. been working fine for a year or so.
if the tank is behind the seat i have a nice f100 tank you can have for free just PM me. you can come get it or just pay shipping. if not buy a 1970 mustang tank they are like 100 bux online. you can stuff it between the rear frame rails, under the bed.
I had the same issue with the tank on the Reo....like mentioned above, I used POR Gas Tank Sealer...and it worked great. That was 5 years ago, and it held up beautifully. I'd highly recommend it.
I've seen gas blow the filler right off of too many motorcycle gas tanks from the inside out. Even at the top above the fuel level. There's no way I'd do it but I'm glad it worked for you.
A friend of mine built a kit airplane. He used a product called "Pro Seal" for the seams on his "wet wing" fuel tanks. Our local Air National Guard uses it for all kinds of sealing jobs, too. Blue
we have dealt with this many times We tried the gas tank patch kits, but they just won't hold very long JBWeld only works a short time, as the ethanol in today's gas will eat through it. so far, our best results are when we smear on a layer of JBWeld, then lay on a piece of fiberglass matting, then more JB Weld. I still expect temporary results
I use POR-15 epoxy putty. Put duct tape over the holes and clean with simple green or purple power soap and water first. Drain and rinse. Mix the 2 part putty and seal the holes. When it hardens pour in Muratic acid to clean the rust from inside the tank. Doesn't take long. When clean drain into a bucket and neutralize with baking soda. Also neutralize the tank with water and baking soda. Drain as completely as possible. Add 2 quarts of acetone to the tank to absorb the water left inside. Drain the acetone and dump in a can of tank sealer called RedKote. Follow the instructions on the can. When dry its ready for use.
beefy soldering iron, a little flux, and a stick of solder, as near a permanent fix as you will get. pulled a 38 ford p/u under seat tank last year, commented to owner about blobs of solder on tank he told me it was done in the 1960s by his father he can recall watching him do the job. Still no leaks so will clean and refit tank when assembly time comes around. p/s no need to fill tanks with water when repairing gas tanks with gas torch just fill with exhaust gas (carbon monoxide or other inert gas) that wont support combustion, been doing this for forty years (that long?)no worries, still have my eyebrows and limbs.
I have covered pinholes in motorcycle tanks with just fiberglass resin, and it held for years. I would be looking for a more permanent solution though, like welding or soldering a patch. In the end, replacement would have to be the best option, even if you have to put a tank under the bed between the rails.
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