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Technical How do I identify different SBC engines

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by HOTRODPRIMER, Nov 10, 2020.

  1. I have the opportunity to pick up 3 sbc engines that are sitting in a warehouse.

    All I know at this time is they have been sitting for a long time, th want them gone and the prove is cheap, they are all used and the condition is unknown.

    They may be 265, 283, 327 or 350, is there anything that jumps out when looking at them that helps determine the years, I intend on writing down the numbers on the block and reporting back, I know with that information I can get a idea of what they are. HRP
     
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  2. silent rick
    Joined: Nov 7, 2002
    Posts: 5,234

    silent rick
    Member

    what are you going to do with all those corvette engines?
     
  3. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,267

    Budget36
    Member

    Well, there’s some things like road draft tubes, oil fill on intakes, vacuum control fitting on Tstat housings, etc. you can get an idea. Someone will give you better info.
    That said if the price is right, remember the saying “There’s an ass for every seat”? Well, there’s an engine bay waiting for every engine;)
     
  4. grumpy65
    Joined: Dec 19, 2017
    Posts: 920

    grumpy65

    Trawling through and getting your head around suffix codes. Or the tried and true bore and stroke method.
    If the price is right, buy them, then sort it all out at home in your own time.
     

  5. grumpy65
    Joined: Dec 19, 2017
    Posts: 920

    grumpy65

    [​IMG]

    As you can see, bore and stroke combination is an accurate method.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2020
    HOTRODPRIMER and Deuces like this.
  6. Long water pump, HEI ignition, AIR pump or other SMOG equipment.

    If SMOG equipment is part of the engine, then the heads will be lower compression in most cases. Still a good engine, just not as many desirable parts.
     
  7. Jokester
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 688

    Jokester
    Member

    Pics would help. Especially the top of the block behind the driver's side head, and the pad in front of the passenger side head. Most of the other stuff mentioned can be changed from engine to engine.

    Good luck.

    .bjb
     
  8. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,165

    redo32
    Member

    Take pictures of casting number, casting date and engine number with suffix with your phone and post here. Squirrel will be along shortly to decipher.
     
  9. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,261

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Oh yes there is!

    If you are EXTREMELY lucky and they are 64-67 Chevy II/Nova specific blocks look for a recessed oil filter pad like shown below, if they are, then we can talk numbers.

    upload_2020-11-10_14-24-46.png
     
  10. grumpy65
    Joined: Dec 19, 2017
    Posts: 920

    grumpy65

  11. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,916

    Deuces

    Pictures, pictures and more pictures..... Post those babies on here!!!!!..... ;):)
     
  12. I will take my camera when I get the call & time to go by the warehouse and meet with the owner. HRP
     
  13. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,365

    -Brent-
    Member

    Take pics of the front sides of the heads, too.
     
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  14. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,761

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Not just the block number above the bellhousing bolts in back, but also on the right front pad just in front of the head surface. There's a long number hand stamped there with prefix and suffix codes that will narrow down the engine ID better than the block casting number at the rear.
     
  15. partssaloon
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 680

    partssaloon
    Member

    right off check for side motor mounts, tri-five didn't have any
     
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  16. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,826

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    C'mon Danny, you got a pretty good idea what your looking at. You just like getting us involved in your adventures.:D
     
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  17. bowie
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,103

    bowie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you can get these 4 numbers, it should be a piece of cake: 08415DE1-7754-4175-9360-B9D406592709.jpeg FA755CE6-9FFC-4C6D-A5AB-663CC1DD532D.jpeg ECB76458-7D78-4E6B-BE66-8F9242D4D9F6.jpeg 1F7273F5-96A0-4CB8-A2FF-D873C6D8DC9B.jpeg
     
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  18. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,979

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Dang, this isn't quite rocket science.

    The casting number on the back of the block tells you the basics on the block.

    The suffix code on the the pad in front of the right head tells you the exact (original) size and application most of the time.
    This one of my go to pages for block and head casting numbers and suffix codes https://nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html

    They don't usually have truck suffix codes that are a bit harder to hunt down.

    Obviously those two codes should jive with each other. .
     
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  19. vinfab
    Joined: Apr 18, 2006
    Posts: 315

    vinfab
    Member

    283.jpg 302.jpg 307.jpg 327sj.jpg 327.jpg 350.jpg Casting codes and dates, Suffix codes and even the size of the stamping pad can help determine what SBC you have, But the quickest and easiest I have found assuming that they have never been messed with is the shape of the crankshaft flange. They are in order 265/283, 302,307, 327 small journal, 327 large journal and 350. I did not include 262,267, 305, and 400.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2020
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  20. 1934coupe
    Joined: Feb 22, 2007
    Posts: 5,069

    1934coupe
    Member

    Vinfaf is right on target! Casting dates, stamped pad size, road draft tube are all clues. HRP you should be able to figure this out.

    Pat
     
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  21. @HOTRODPRIMER ^^^^^^^^ the quickest way to check
     
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  22. grumpy65
    Joined: Dec 19, 2017
    Posts: 920

    grumpy65

    Always way more fun to do it together. ;)
     
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  23. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,214

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    350's I believe didn't have road draft tube provisions at rear of block, short of casting numbers on rear I'd look at crankshaft flanges
    SBC crank flanges.png
     
  24. grumpy65
    Joined: Dec 19, 2017
    Posts: 920

    grumpy65

    Glad I'm here today. I just learnt something new. :D:D:D
     
  25. jim snow
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,813

    jim snow
    Member

    X2. Snowman
     
  26. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    I am probably going to be the opposition here. I have a complete 63 - 283 and 64 - 327 both in good condition. I can not even give them away. Granted they both need to be put back together. Bores are nice and clean no rust.
     
  27. grumpy65
    Joined: Dec 19, 2017
    Posts: 920

    grumpy65

    It seems these days that anything under 350 is not worth considering. I blame the "crate engine" generation. :eek:
     
  28. 55blacktie
    Joined: Aug 21, 2020
    Posts: 793

    55blacktie

    I experienced the same thing with two 283 blocks. I ended up scrapping them. I think that anyone who would use a 283 or 327 probably already has one in good condition and isn't looking for another. I see that people are also losing interest in the 350 SBC, preferring LS engines; they are the new SBC.
     
  29. I am one who prefers a 283 & 327, I have had both and they were great engines, I have a 350 in my old beater the smaller displacement engines may not be the most desirable hot rod engines but they are reliable. HRP

    283 that Ron built for the 32 I traded for.

    [​IMG]
     
  30. Thanks guy's, I will make a copy and carry this with me when I check them out. HRP
     

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