Technical how did you paint that? fixtures and taping technics

Sounds like an act from the old Ed Sullivan show. Bob

 

HAH, balancing and keeping them spinning WHILE painting them.
Hey Bob, do you have a photo of Franks wheel painting fixture? that thing is probably over 50 years old now.

 

I'll bring my camera along tomorrow. First guy I knew with a powered wheel painting setup was Bill Oxley. I can remember it as clear as yesterday, but it was the spring of 1970, dead calm day on the loading dock of his shop. He was doing the 1922 MERCER at the time, and just kept adding another coast of black enamel until each wheel looked flawless. Won Hershey that Fall and the Mercer Cup for the year. Bob

 

Hang something heavy from them .

 

We use an old brake drum lathe to mount and paint wheels. Spins just the right speed and never had a sag. Looks similar to this one.

 

You could probably get some kind of a "modern art" scholarship at one of the big universities with this.

 

old sign painter trick. finish nails tapped into the bench. either to lift the piece off the surface to get the top and sides or if the back side isn't critical paint/prime the back then flip and do the top and sides.

 

I do a lot of work on F100s so I have made a few jigs to hold parts while being worked and painted. The bed cart not only serves to hold a bed for paint but it is also a jig to mount the components when assembling aftermarket bed kits.

 

bruce, the rollers are urethane bar stock bored and running on flanged bushings using shoulder bolts as axles. the motors and gears were sourced from an online surplus house [more info later]. the wheel revolves at about 5 R.P.M., works out real good. first spray the depressed section [let dry],mask fixture, direct paint spray to "open" area of fixture.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/electric-motors/ac-gearmotors/ac-gearmotors/

 

The brake anchor brackets had been spread apart and a quick coat of SPI sprayed on the inside, then clamped closed with NNVG for the remaining spray session.




Quite the clamping conglomeration...




......just to show....Use whatever works..

 

does nobody hang parts from trees anymore ????

 

Mounting extra small stuff for painting can be made easier by just drilling holes and putting them on a piece of plywood.


these are the semi tubular rivets for all the hood latches and handles, I think 3/32" dia. for my Model A

hinge bolts for Model A

It works for hinge pins and carriage bolts for the fenders and other small pieces as well.
Obviously major care is needed to install these pieces without chipping, but masking tape over the painted surface during installation can help. ...and paint extras to allow for some damage. ...and allow plenty of drying/hardening time before installation.

 

"I do a lot of work on F100s so I have made a few jigs to hold parts while being worked and painted. The bed cart not only serves to hold a bed for paint but it is also a jig to mount the components when assembling aftermarket bed kits."

Thanks for the pictures, I've been thinking about similar ideas for my F-1, this helps.

 

I usually hold the wire just above the part with my other hand. It's simple but it works.

 

Nice enough to paint outside today! Had to paint a driveshaft It was white so this is what I came up with and it worked great. Large clamp for counter weight. Piece of old broom handle

 

Hang another hook off the bottom with a weight. Not high tech but it works, use good hooks so it doesnt come crashing down. Or use a rack like the old garment rack shown.

 

"...use good hooks so it doesn't come crashing down"

Or this could happen.



That was a gallon of Chassis Black, minus about a pint. I was painting backing plates hanging from too small wire hooks.

 

bummer. what did they do? fall on the bench and knock the can over?

 

Level that out and come back in a week and paint in the 12x12 white checks. Bob

 

If the part you are painting has big enough holes in it, you can use 7/16 or 1/2 inch UNF bolts and tapered wheel nuts to attach it. That way you can paint pretty much right up to the edge of the hole.

I mounted my '32 chassis like this through the spreader bar bolt holes when painting it and it worked really well.

 

when I painted mine I cut in all fender flanges and body with single stage. Reassembled fenders with 3/4" spacers so the final PPG and clearcoat would get applied between fenders and body and to keep the metallic correct on all surfaces.

 

to paint these windshield stanchions, i bent a piece of 10 gage on either end, drilled some holes to bolt to the stanchions and a couple screw holes in the middle. i then covered a 2x4 on top of a 6x6 chunk of wood with paper and screwed them to it.

 

Looks like a windshield for a very narrow hot rod. Good job!

 

Where was I when this started? I used tie wire. Chased parts all around painting them.

 

Nothing like what you guys are doing, but engine relelated, here's how I like doing my intake manifold side of head. Lay out painters tape on the entire intake side and locate gasket. use razor and cut entire intake gasket profile, than peel away what's going to be painted

 

Excellent thread . . . thanks

 

hood has been painted on the bottom. after taping off the back side i "propped" it up, with a 2x4 wrapped in paper. this will allow me to paint around the edge.

 

Here's the official 2 x 8 valve cover paint fixtures...

 

wrapped a paint can with paper to hold this fender up off the stand.

 

since these 37 chevy doors have removable inner panels i was able to hook the bottom of the window opening over the top of these T stands.