Technical how did you lift/ sling your engine.

there was a recent post asking about engine plates. i thought it would be a good idea to show some different ways to properly lift you engine, tranny or ????
post them up.
here is a couple photos of me removing a OT lt1 from a 55 chevy pickup and how i slung the 235 to go back in.............

for the lt i bent a piece of steel and used intake bolts to hold it to the engine.
on the 235 i made a plate to bolt where the coil mounted then wrapped a chain around the intake exhaust.
show us what you have done.

 

Engine lift plate on this one.

 

here is a engine chain. has plates on either end for a bolt and a "key" hole shaped eye that can lock on any link, to get proper balance.

 

I'll seenu f I can find the real interesting and innovative ones we've done. I'll leave out the engines that come out the bottom. Those are fun because you pick the car up with the hoist over the engine.

The van with little room between the top of block and the cowl.

V8 in a 59 Mercedes 190sl
Done with engine and Trans.
Had to have the rear end 3' off the ground to clear core support and firewall at the same time and not smash engine into hoist.

 

Using 2 straps on 6 on inline engines works the best for me.

 

The small block chevys came with nice brackets that bolted on the intake.

 

No pictures, but I've used seatbelts instead of chains.

 

just a chain with bolts run through the links.

 

So did the big blocks. But I quit using them, after I built my lifting plate.

I also made another lifting plate for the blower intake, that was fun! (it's actually my transmission adapter plate for my floor jack, with some new holes in it)

 

I've used the plate that bolts to the intake but I use grade 8 bolts, don't trust the studs. I made a deal out of a piece of roll bar tubing with a chain on each end and a place to hook the crane in the center. Used it on my dragster so I didn't have to pull the injection off.

 

Either use a chain diagonal across the intake area for V8s or a carb plate for V8s. Inlines just get creative with the diagonal chains. The trick is getting a balance point on the chain.

 

The trick and challenge.

 

I usually do the diagonal head bolts through the chain links. The last couple (modern motors) we used bolts through the back intake bolt holes on each side of the motor and a 500 lbs ratchet strap connected to something on the front of the motor and the cherry picker hook. That kept the motor level and allowed us to make quick changes in the angle the motor & trans as it was going in. Gene

 

I've used this type of chain many times. I've also used lifting eyes like these bolted to the engine:

And then a chain fitted with hooks like this:

Or a load leveler, like this:

 

I always use a chain, sometimes with the stock lifting rings in the intake, bellhouseing to front head, mostly sideways in exhaust manifold bolt holes, at the chassis shop we use outdated 5 way bolt in harness belts on a fabricated piece of tubing.

 

Never did get the diagonal chain thing. Seems to me one correcting angle would be fairly easy to make... The other angle extremely hard.

 

BEST ENGINE SWAP EVER!!!!

 

OTC load leveler.

 

I use these L-brackets to keep the chains away from the motor. Also works well with heads on.

 

Well our esteemed OP posted an OT motor in post #1, so please disregard this OT motor & tranny and just focus on the seat-of-the-pants Aggie engineering. It worked.

 

Used a seatbelt once on a Jeep CJ 4 banger. Usually use chains or ratchet straps

 

here is one i made years ago to pull model A engines. made from an original spark plug. number 3 hole and yes it works/worked perfect.

 

i made this one for a slightly off topic vintage mercedes engine, if i remember right it bolted to the thermostat housing.

 

my uncle Joe made this one real quick a few weeks before he died for me. it bolted to the head of a ford flat head six that we were taking out to swop in a sbc.

 

i can't remember what i made this one for but it held one end of a chain to the engine.
this is to show how get two smaller bolts to work together.
seems like a lot of work? with a cutting torch it really doesn't take long to hack out a couple pieces. drill a few holes a weld and it is secure...........good piece of mind and well worth the effort.

 

I did a sling like in the pics of the 235 for a Rambler 6, but used tow straps instead of chain to not dent, gouge, or scratch anything.

 

Made a adjustable lift bar out of one of Henry's axles so I didn't have to disturb the intake. Lucky my mill had those ugly bolt hole infested late model heads.

 

I figure if you are lifting the same type of engine regularly that you can refine your method to make things work out real well.
My biggest lift is when I need to remove or install an engine in my old 59/60 F100.
It runs a SBC, but the garage crane lift required to get the engine over then front bar where the radiator sits is huge.
It is a very high lift for a shop crane and I find it daunting momentarily.