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Technical Hot water heater installation and tips needed.....

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Rick Hegdahl, Dec 27, 2017.

  1. Rick Hegdahl
    Joined: Dec 13, 2017
    Posts: 15

    Rick Hegdahl

    I have only owned this since mid Nov. '17....

    I am adding hot water heat to my '40 Standard. I have a '41 unit on the way.....
    I need to add a shut off valve to the passenger side head.
    It passenger side head has two ports on top with the forward one being a heat gauge sending unit that is inline with the driver's side head sending unit.
    The rear sender controls the electric cooling fan at the radiator.

    Do I eliminate the passenger side temp sending unit to add the shut-off or use a "T" to keep both the valve and the sending unit?
    '52 Ford flathead was rebuilt in '05 has 1k miles since (2).jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2017
    LOU WELLS likes this.
  2. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,067

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Memory says you need both senders as one is wired through the other... I put the shut off valve where the heater's input hose enters the firewall...
    I had a hard time adding water without removing a coupe grill shell screws, I close the valve, remove the hose, crack open the cap and add water from there...
     
  3. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,979

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    Why would you need to heat...hot water ?

    Mike
     
  4. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 18,784

    Deuces
    Member
    from Michigan

    For a heater core....(????):confused:
     
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  5. fordrodsteven
    Joined: Apr 1, 2017
    Posts: 99

    fordrodsteven
    Member

    Aren't there two ports on the drivers side also? why don't you move your radiator fan sending unit to the driver's side and then just run your hot water line (with shut off valve) from the rear port on the passenger side?
     
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  6. lodaddyo
    Joined: May 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,194

    lodaddyo
    Member

    Its like twiced baked potatoes
     
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  7. 42merc
    Joined: Dec 19, 2010
    Posts: 716

    42merc
    Member

    Remove the heat gauge. Use the single terminal gauge in the left hand head, put the 2 terminal gauge & jumper wire in your tool box, don't need it.
    Put the fan control in the front port on the right head use the rear port for the heater pipe or valve. I know you know but the other hose will go to the right hand water pump or lower hose.

    "Why would you need to heat...hot water ?"
    He's not heating hot water, he is using hot water to heat the car.
     
  8. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,676

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    My local Advance Auto has in line manual heater valves. The valve has a heater hose bung on both sides. Cut your hose and install the valve with a hose clamp on each end. I have this set up in my '46 and it works fine.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  9. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 27,143

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A Ford Bronco/Pickup heater control valve C3UZ18495A YG133 Isn't expensive an is cable operate.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  10. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,067

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just thinking that if you used a Y to the heater with a valve on each upper end you could let the cooled water dump back into the block in summer... and send the water through the heater in winter... with a hot running flattie you might run another Y to dump the return water into both heads...
    and then there are the through the lower hose "add a nipple" thingies from the '40's - '50's.
     
  11. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 3,590

    Budget36
    Member

    I've a set of water pumps off a Ford Pilot engine, and the passenger side one has a pipe fitting which fed the heater, don't recall where the return went. Just giving you another option.
     
  12. Rick Hegdahl
    Joined: Dec 13, 2017
    Posts: 15

    Rick Hegdahl

    No, only one port on drivers side head. That is where the other temp. sender is located.
     
  13. Rick Hegdahl
    Joined: Dec 13, 2017
    Posts: 15

    Rick Hegdahl

    thanks! I like this possibility. I have a valve for the head but I haven't installed anything yet. May use this path instead.
     
  14. how cold of weather do you drive in? skip the heater and ugly hoses and just get electric seat units put in under the upholstery. i bet it will be cheaper.
     
  15. Rick Hegdahl
    Joined: Dec 13, 2017
    Posts: 15

    Rick Hegdahl

    I would still need a source for the hot water.
     
  16. Rick Hegdahl
    Joined: Dec 13, 2017
    Posts: 15

    Rick Hegdahl

    Still need a source for the hot water..... where do I tap into the block? See my original story....
     
  17. Rick Hegdahl
    Joined: Dec 13, 2017
    Posts: 15

    Rick Hegdahl

    UPDATE:
    I have been told that I can put my fan sensor in the drain petcock location in the lower radiator.
    I would then have to use a lower radiator hose to drain when needed.
    Other option, I suppose, is to take the radiator to a shop that can add another bung to the lower tank for that.
     
  18. nrgwizard
    Joined: Aug 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,178

    nrgwizard
    Member
    from Minn. uSA

    Don't forget about the temp differential 'twixt the various locations. OK if the fan sensor is adjustable so you can compensate, otherwise it may not come on when you need/want it to. I played w/this in the mid-80's when I had a ford v8 flattie. I had measured the temps at different locations, but have forgotten, & notes are long gone. IIRC, the head temps n top-tank-radiator temps aren't all that far apart, but the lower tank is quite a bit different(lower temps, esp w/a proper shroud n fan. If the sender isn't adj, & you're happy w/when it gets triggered, I'd mount it on the top tank, probably between the inlets. Shop can put the bung there easily. Should come close to duplicating the current head location temps.
    Just something to be aware of. Lots of good suggestions on this thread.
    FWW.
    Marcus...
     
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  19. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,067

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Fords had a unit that screwed into a hole cut in a lower rad hose, had a heater hose size nipple exiting the hose... to add a hot water heater instead of hot air...
    we are in the middle of a big snow storm, 8" so far, the heater hose nipple is down in the garage, maybe pix Friday...
     
  20. 42merc
    Joined: Dec 19, 2010
    Posts: 716

    42merc
    Member

    It looks like an 8BA motor, would have 3/8" pipe threads & plugs in both water pumps.
    Take a good look. Re-read post seven.
    This "ain't"a rocket ship.
     
  21. [​IMG]
    In the center of this photo above you can see the shut-off valve for the hot water for the heater and the heater hose. In the lower, right-hand corner of the photo you can see the other heater hose exiting from the right-hand water pump. Does that clear it up for you?
     
  22. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,575

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    When I read the thread title my first thought was that Home Depot could help you with that.
    o_O Hot water heater :confused:
    Not automotive terminology.

    Besides everyone knows that a Flathead is a hot water heater, more often a boiler. :D
    An automotive heater heats the interior air of the vehicle not the water.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2018
  23. fiftiescat
    Joined: Jan 22, 2013
    Posts: 118

    fiftiescat
    Member
    from NY

    My ‘46 239 runs at 150 degrees all damn day, wish it would run hotter!! [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Rick Hegdahl likes this.
  24. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,476

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Seat heaters don't keep the windows from fogging up.
     
    Rick Hegdahl and Blue One like this.

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