Hot Vs. Cold

Which should be used when boxing rails?
Is there a difference?
I guess I will be using a .188 X 4"...Sound Right?

 

I used cold rolled .120.
Mainly cuz I like working with cold rolled so much, but also because the re-pro frame rails - and I'm betting Henry's originals are as well - are cold rolled.

You don't need .187 for boxing plates.
Imho, you don't need one long piece either.
A 20' stick(?) of .120 cold rolled 6" wide will do it.
The 6" is an exact fit on the widest part of 32 rails and it can be used on the rest of the frame by cutting angles and butting it up against the 'in-place' boxing plate.

Take note of a lot of the commercially built 32 frames.
They have open areas for access - and perhaps material cost savings - and the frames are not fully boxed.

I did box mine all the way, but access holes - rounded rectangles - about 4" tall get cut in the boxing plates later. Later so I could determine just where I did want them and not have to go along with what the manufacturer decided.

Along with the little bit that .120 will do it - the frame rails proper are .120 or so - it's a lot easier to work with than is the .187.
Be sure and bevel the to-be welded edges for good weld penetration.
Proof of the pudding on the .120 stuff is my 32.
It has .120 boxing plates and 40,000 miles - some of it on rough and/or dirt roads - and no problems.

The only place .187 is needed is the front crossmember.

I made a quickie little tool for precisely marking off the boxing plate that makes life easy.
I'll try to get some pics and post it late this afternoon.

 

This is on a stock A chassis. I have already done from the motor mounts to the crossmember with 1/4" cut slightly smaller than the rails so when I dress the welds they will look like the outside of the frame. I am also planning on using EMT to run wiring tru the chassis. two pieces of 3/4 from the battery to the cab. then a peice of 1/2 to the front of the car for the rest of the wiring