The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kustombuilder, Jan 16, 2008.
Yup they rotate to 90 degrees. As far as the casters go, they have locks, the unit stays put.
Small wheel machine I made ,crude but effective . Lower wheel is a pillow block bearing the upper(s) are from a scraped manuel treadmill (parts is parts !) Made a small patch panel for late model Dodge truck ...
The lower wheel raises and lowers with parts from an old sissors jack
I can add a wheel and make beads in pans ...
My English Wheel,with quick release.
Click on the thumbnails for details.
Another English wheel for a friend of mine in NJ.
The mechanism is identical to mine.
More on www.Allshops.org
Daaaang ! that is nice , home made ? I' ve just been humbled !
I posted a thread in the forums,on Allshops.org ,showing how to make a compact lower adjuster for an English Wheel,without a lot
of fancy machining. I think the forums are down now,check back later.
I used a 1 3/8 - 6 PTO extension.It has matching male splines on one end,female on the other.
I cut it in half,near the top of the male splines.
End faced both sides,drilled a 1/4-20 hole in the top of the male splined section.This is to attach the lower yoke.
Drilled through the bottom of the female section,to accept a 3/4 NC nut and bolt.Weld the nut to the bottom.
Weld the female section to the English wheel frame,attach lower yoke to the top of the male splines,and insert into the frame.
You can weld a hand wheel to the end of the bolt,or add a long extension to make a foot wheel.Your choice.
Simple,no slop,lower adjuster.
If you can find one,there is a way to use a 1 3/8"female,1 1/8" male PTO coupling,to make an adjuster with a quick release.That was my first choice,
but they were hard to find at the time.
Wow, english wheels seems to be the popular choice.
Here is mine.
24" throat, spent a wopping 10 bucks on bearings and used scrap metal, works better than those $800 english wheels.
hey Dread, where'd you get the wheels?
They are bearing, I got them at an Army surplus store
I found my old Shop Time articles last night, so I scaned them. Here's the Disk Sander, Belt Sander, and the Saw Horses. I've built two sets of the Saw Horses myself. Beacuse the first set got used to hold up my 4ft x 4 ft x 2in steel work bench. The only change I made was to measure a set of 'mini' spare tires, and make the horses tall enough that I could roll the chassis in under them.
Here's a pic of the bead roller I built. I mounted the
wheel over the top by the front for ease of use. I also
added a slip on table which helps when working by your self. Here's a link to the build:
A few pics.The first one shows the male splines
cut off the bottom and inserted in the top.
Second show the bottom bored out to located a
3/4 NC hex nut.3 short beads will hold it in place.
Last one shows the completed assembly,
with the yoke from my other English Wheel.
There is a 1/4-20 thread in the top of the
male splines to accept the SHCS to attach the yoke.
That way the yoke can be rotated,and/or shimmed if necessary.
From the center of the anvil wheel axle to
the bottom of the adjusting screw is around 7 1/2" .
very cool Unk
This adjuster will be used with 2" wide anvil wheels,and a welded yoke,
so the horizontal element of the yoke will be much thinner.
I did a little "optional extra" machining,facing down the length,
to to see how small I could make it.With a smaller,welded yoke,
and without the extra machining,the overall length might be approx 3/8" longer.
I used a lathe,because i have one.
But it could be done by just about anyone,with a saw and drill.
A couple years ago,someone on the Metalshapers Yahoo group
said a lower adjuster couldn't be made small enough,without wobbling.
I knew it was possible,just a matter of proportions,but wanted to
make one as simple as possible.
Making stuff complicated is easy;making stuff simple is not always so easy.
Mark Scranton suggested the idea of using PTO components,IIRC.
Some people debated if they were going to be too hard to machine.
Another reason to go ahead an do it. No problems.
I made the upper adjuster on my wheel out of a slip yoke. It was out of the dumpster at work. It was a warranty thing. Then I used a big wheel stud and a couple nuts. I don't have any pictures with it apart. I used a steering wheel, that wheel was temperary.
Here's a picture.
here's a link to a simple planishing hammer I made
here is one for a sheet metal brake I found...
In the january issue of Street Rod Builder there is a simple explanation on how to fabricate the panel clamps to hold door skin patches etc in place for welding. I always wanted to build some, but didn't know what to use for the "spacer" between the panels, and this feature answered the question. i just went out to the scrap pile here at work and cut off a piece of the metal strapping as suggested. Just need to get the screws and wingnuts now to finish.
I plan on building a brake of this style over the coming weekend....
You can get those weld clamps at Harbor Freight for 4.99 a bag.
Here is the link on Allshops.org
Thanks heaps, Unk...Have just gone thru the Allshops link. My E Wheel frame is made from 4x4 3/8 wall stuff and I intend to run 3'' Anvils and the biggest Top Wheel I can Find.I wonder if those combination Male/Female Pto parts come in a bigger size....maybe the truck driveshaft thing would be as cheap and mesh together better....What say you??
Here is a link to a slick lower adjuster. It is from a radial arm saw.
Metal Meet has alot of info on building an english wheel.
The truck yoke was simple. The splines have a teflon coating that made it a little bit of a pain to weld and machine without messing it up.
That's because the sub-forum that the post is in is a secure forum and one is required to join MetalMeet.com forums to see it. Kind of a bummer and something I didn't realize till just now. (I'm a MM.com member.)
There MIGHT be a bigger PTO coupling,with smaller splines.
Or just taper the frame to suit the smaller PTO coupling.
1 3/8"- 6 spline seems to be the most common.
Use what you can find.
One of the big arguments against lower adjusters,
was that they were in the way,for soing some shapes.
So i made a short one.You could attach a u-joint to
the adjusting screw,and offset the foot wheel.Then
you have clearance for doing cycle fenders,etc.
4x4x3/8" should be good,if the throat isn't too big.
I used 4x4 x 1/4" ,with a piece of 3"round 1/4' wall tube
plug welded into the vertical element of the frame,because
that is where most of the stress is located.Did the math,
I think it ended up the same as if I used 3/8" wall.
That is slick,if you can remember which way to turn it.
See if I can drag a picture over.
Thats a Kick ass E-Wheel, I would like to see how you did that. I was looking at that over at metal meet but there was no story,,,, You have any better photos of it?
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