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home made tools and equipment...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kustombuilder, Jan 16, 2008.

  1. torchmen49
    Joined: Mar 5, 2005
    Posts: 291

    torchmen49
    Member

    Yup they rotate to 90 degrees. As far as the casters go, they have locks, the unit stays put.:cool:
     
  2. Ned_Gob
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 539

    Ned_Gob
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Small wheel machine I made ,crude but effective . Lower wheel is a pillow block bearing the upper(s) are from a scraped manuel treadmill (parts is parts !) Made a small patch panel for late model Dodge truck ...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The lower wheel raises and lowers with parts from an old sissors jack
     
  3. Ned_Gob
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 539

    Ned_Gob
    Member

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I can add a wheel and make beads in pans ...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  4. [​IMG]

    My English Wheel,with quick release.
    Click on the thumbnails for details.






     
  5. Ned_Gob
    Joined: Jan 12, 2007
    Posts: 539

    Ned_Gob
    Member

    Daaaang ! that is nice , home made ? I' ve just been humbled !
     
  6. I posted a thread in the forums,on Allshops.org ,showing how to make a compact lower adjuster for an English Wheel,without a lot
    of fancy machining. I think the forums are down now,check back later.

    I used a 1 3/8 - 6 PTO extension.It has matching male splines on one end,female on the other.

    [​IMG]

    I cut it in half,near the top of the male splines.
    End faced both sides,drilled a 1/4-20 hole in the top of the male splined section.This is to attach the lower yoke.

    Drilled through the bottom of the female section,to accept a 3/4 NC nut and bolt.Weld the nut to the bottom.

    Weld the female section to the English wheel frame,attach lower yoke to the top of the male splines,and insert into the frame.
    You can weld a hand wheel to the end of the bolt,or add a long extension to make a foot wheel.Your choice.

    Simple,no slop,lower adjuster.
     
  7. If you can find one,there is a way to use a 1 3/8"female,1 1/8" male PTO coupling,to make an adjuster with a quick release.That was my first choice,
    but they were hard to find at the time.
     
  8. Chris Casny
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,720

    Chris Casny
    Member
    from Jamaica

    Wow, english wheels seems to be the popular choice.
    Here is mine.
    24" throat, spent a wopping 10 bucks on bearings and used scrap metal, works better than those $800 english wheels.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,819

    chaddilac
    Member


    hey Dread, where'd you get the wheels?
     
  10. Chris Casny
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,720

    Chris Casny
    Member
    from Jamaica

    They are bearing, I got them at an Army surplus store
     
  11. 1Bad67
    Joined: Mar 22, 2006
    Posts: 221

    1Bad67
    Member

    I found my old Shop Time articles last night, so I scaned them. Here's the Disk Sander, Belt Sander, and the Saw Horses. I've built two sets of the Saw Horses myself. Beacuse the first set got used to hold up my 4ft x 4 ft x 2in steel work bench. The only change I made was to measure a set of 'mini' spare tires, and make the horses tall enough that I could roll the chassis in under them.

    Eric
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Rich B.
    Joined: Jan 23, 2008
    Posts: 545

    Rich B.
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Portage,IN

    Here's a pic of the bead roller I built. I mounted the
    wheel over the top by the front for ease of use. I also
    added a slip on table which helps when working by your self. Here's a link to the build:
    http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6052

    Rich
     

    Attached Files:

  13. A few pics.The first one shows the male splines
    cut off the bottom and inserted in the top.

    Second show the bottom bored out to located a
    3/4 NC hex nut.3 short beads will hold it in place.

    Last one shows the completed assembly,
    with the yoke from my other English Wheel.
    There is a 1/4-20 thread in the top of the
    male splines to accept the SHCS to attach the yoke.
    That way the yoke can be rotated,and/or shimmed if necessary.

    From the center of the anvil wheel axle to
    the bottom of the adjusting screw is around 7 1/2" .
     

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  14. kustombuilder
    Joined: Sep 18, 2002
    Posts: 7,745

    kustombuilder
    Member
    from Novi, MI

  15. This adjuster will be used with 2" wide anvil wheels,and a welded yoke,
    so the horizontal element of the yoke will be much thinner.

    I did a little "optional extra" machining,facing down the length,
    to to see how small I could make it.With a smaller,welded yoke,
    and without the extra machining,the overall length might be approx 3/8" longer.

    I used a lathe,because i have one.
    But it could be done by just about anyone,with a saw and drill.


    A couple years ago,someone on the Metalshapers Yahoo group
    said a lower adjuster couldn't be made small enough,without wobbling.
    I knew it was possible,just a matter of proportions,but wanted to
    make one as simple as possible.

    Making stuff complicated is easy;making stuff simple is not always so easy.

    Mark Scranton suggested the idea of using PTO components,IIRC.
    Some people debated if they were going to be too hard to machine.

    Another reason to go ahead an do it. No problems.
     
  16. Dyce
    Joined: Sep 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,805

    Dyce
    Member

    I made the upper adjuster on my wheel out of a slip yoke. It was out of the dumpster at work. It was a warranty thing. Then I used a big wheel stud and a couple nuts. I don't have any pictures with it apart. I used a steering wheel, that wheel was temperary.
    Jeff
     
  17. Dyce
    Joined: Sep 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,805

    Dyce
    Member

    Here's a picture.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. rodknocker
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 2,267

    rodknocker

  19. Dyce51
    Joined: Aug 17, 2007
    Posts: 274

    Dyce51
    Member
    from Ohio

  20. michael037
    Joined: May 26, 2005
    Posts: 320

    michael037
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    In the january issue of Street Rod Builder there is a simple explanation on how to fabricate the panel clamps to hold door skin patches etc in place for welding. I always wanted to build some, but didn't know what to use for the "spacer" between the panels, and this feature answered the question. i just went out to the scrap pile here at work and cut off a piece of the metal strapping as suggested. Just need to get the screws and wingnuts now to finish.
    Michael
     
  21. CURIOUS RASH
    Joined: Jun 2, 2002
    Posts: 9,635

    CURIOUS RASH
    Classified's Moderator

  22. Here is the link on Allshops.org
     
  23. Kiwi Tinbender
    Joined: Feb 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,155

    Kiwi Tinbender
    Member

    Thanks heaps, Unk...Have just gone thru the Allshops link. My E Wheel frame is made from 4x4 3/8 wall stuff and I intend to run 3'' Anvils and the biggest Top Wheel I can Find.I wonder if those combination Male/Female Pto parts come in a bigger size....maybe the truck driveshaft thing would be as cheap and mesh together better....What say you??
     
  24. Dyce
    Joined: Sep 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,805

    Dyce
    Member

  25. Darren M.
    Joined: Apr 6, 2006
    Posts: 150

    Darren M.
    Member

    That's because the sub-forum that the post is in is a secure forum and one is required to join MetalMeet.com forums to see it. Kind of a bummer and something I didn't realize till just now. (I'm a MM.com member.)
     

  26. There MIGHT be a bigger PTO coupling,with smaller splines.
    Or just taper the frame to suit the smaller PTO coupling.

    1 3/8"- 6 spline seems to be the most common.
    Use what you can find.

    One of the big arguments against lower adjusters,
    was that they were in the way,for soing some shapes.
    So i made a short one.You could attach a u-joint to
    the adjusting screw,and offset the foot wheel.Then
    you have clearance for doing cycle fenders,etc.
    ---
    4x4x3/8" should be good,if the throat isn't too big.

    I used 4x4 x 1/4" ,with a piece of 3"round 1/4' wall tube
    plug welded into the vertical element of the frame,because
    that is where most of the stress is located.Did the math,
    I think it ended up the same as if I used 3/8" wall.
     
  27. That is slick,if you can remember which way to turn it.
     
  28. Dyce
    Joined: Sep 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,805

    Dyce
    Member

    See if I can drag a picture over.
    [​IMG]
     

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