The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kustombuilder, Jan 16, 2008.
This is like watching the first 10 minutes of a good film... then getting a power cut...
... like driving to Disneyworld and just sitting in the parking lot ...
I have this Vince Gingery book, $10, haven't built one yet but looks pretty good. Typical Gingery low-buck tecniques, uses pipe for the rolls.
walking on the beach with your socks and shoes on...
Here is a closeup very similar setup, built by KenB here on the HAMB to attach to his english wheel. It does not move metal with pressure like an english wheel does, it forms it without any change in metal thickness. the tighter you crank the upper & lower together, the tighter a radius you can achieve in the metal you are curving.
Everytime I have a slow day at work I come back and skim through this thread. I learn something new every damn time.
so here's a jack mod everyone will love...awesome on cherry pickers.the old way to lower a jack sucks in comparison.
the backside so it will swivel out of the way if needed.
also note the extension on the press,easily removed.sorry about the size,i cannot seem to make them any smaller.
Simple but awesome idea. I'm going to use it on the cylinder on my car trailer. I can never find that damn handle with the two notches to release the cylinder.
I agree very good idea! I have a press and cherry picker that are in need of that.
Here is a one handed bearing puller I made to get me carrier bearing off the drive shaft of my f250.
It is adjustable by moving the bolt into the different holes you see, has the springs to hold in on whatever you are pulling off, so you hands can do other things like tighten it, and a 12" screw shaft on it so you can pull as shallow or deep as your heart desires.
This is not a homade tool but more of a handy use of existiog tools.
I have a lot of early Ford spoked wheels in addition to other wheels including golf cart wheels.
In order to take pictures for this thread I could only find one golf cart wheel for illistration and it only had a slight dent on the rim.
However the dent was bent back intill it almost touched the main body of the wheel. Kind of a worst case scenario.
The first picture dosn't show how tight the rim is to the wheel but I used the much dulled and rounded cutting end of an old brick hammer to get behind the fold and started hitting it with the 2 lb hammer.
Warning: Wear face and body protection to avoid steel fragments from the hardened faces of the hammers fragmenting.
I have never had this happen but at can happen.
Anyway each time I struck the brick hammer I would change the angle of the hammer bringing the cutting head incontact with the rim.
After I got the rim away from the main body of the wheel I turned the hammer arousn and placed the bottom edge of the face against the rim and struch the flat top of the hammer to complete the straightining job.
Sorry for the bad focus on one of the pictures.
this is all such great stuff. i wish my garage was big enough so that i could make all this stuff
my chopsaw was a bit of a hassle to cut long stock.so i made a slide to enable stock to clear doorway.
it slides easily,and i can clean bench under saw without lifting it off.
what blade are you using in that saw, and is that saw made for metal cutting carbide tipped blades?
not bad, not bad at all! this one i have GOT to remember!
good trend can't wait to get building lol
Cost me about $12 to make, 1/4" flat stock, bolts and wing nuts, a piece of threaded rod and nuts to go on that, and three little springs to keep it in place.
yes,its carbide tipped,saw runs slower than an abrasive saw,will go through 1" round bar like butter and the drop is not as hot as it would be with abrasive saws.
who makes that model?
A large adjustable crescent wrench works Very Well for this job and is easier and safer than using a hammer
This toe in tool is a ground rod, two parts off flathead Ford starters and some flat strap.
I used it after my sons Jeep was broadsided, bending the rear axle shaft and the rear axle housing. My son took the Jeep in for a 4 wheel alignment after I installed another axle out of another wrecked Jeep where I had to cut off and install replacement sway bar mounts.
The fancy new laser wheel alignment machine said my installation was 3/10 of one degree off.
"A large adjustable crescent wrench works Very Well for this job and is easier and safer than using a hammer"
The picture did not show how tight the rim was to the main body of the rim.
Any size adjustable end wrench would not fit into the very limited space that there was available.
When I started out working on cars when I was a kid, one of the first shops I worked at was a front end shop. We did alignments with tram guages just like that one. Some of the kids I've worked with over the years just dont understand that shops did alignments before all the fancy new equiptment. "How do you do it with just a stick?" is the question I always get!!
i've heard that before myself... along with "how the hell do you balance a tire/wheel with only a small circular level?"
well,imagine what the automotive world would be like if all the apprentices needed to learn everything old school.
all my learnin was in the school of hard knocks.hence the bloody knuckles for the first half of my career.
carburetors man,that's what life is all about.....
Well this is exactly what the "Journeyman" part of the original Apprentice Guild program was for,Depending on the trade you apprenticed to when you finished your training with your original "Master"you were required to then travel from Master to Master for a set number of years to lean how other Masters performed their trade after you fulfilled your "Journeymen"requirements you could then set up your own shop or work for wages under any Master you wished as a Journeyman.there was only 1 "Master" in any one shop
This tool holds the girlfriends flowers on the front porch.
It is also a great tool for those "well you never make me anything" moments.
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