Register now to get rid of these ads!

home made tools and equipment...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kustombuilder, Jan 16, 2008.

  1. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 12,189

    from oregon

  2. Stueeee
    Joined: Oct 21, 2015
    Posts: 178

    from Kent, UK

    Here's a tool that I made to get diff carrier bearings off without damage. Dana, Salisbury and many other diffs have shims between the taper roller bearings and the diff body to set the bearing preload and the pinion engagement depth/backlash when rebuilding a rear end.
    These shim packs are rarely the correct thickness on the first build up, so the it's necessary to be able to remove and replace the bearings without boogering the bearing's delicate cage whilst getting them off. There simply isn't room to get a conventional bearing puller in there on any diff I've worked on. I made the tool at the bottom of the photo in my lathe. They're just offcuts of fairly chunky mild steel flat bar; the bottom lip is about 3/32" thick.


    Here it is in use. In order to keep the bars square and the the lips properly engaged with the bearing's inner, the nuts on the studding are fully tightened so that the round spacers are tight against the bars. I have a number of different thickness spacers to fit between the two flat bars so that the tool always contacts the inner race rather than the bearing cage on the different size bearings that there are on various diffs. Even when there's that (tight fit) grunting noise as the bearing starts to move when pressing them off, there has never been any damage to the bearings so far using this tool.

    In this picture, you can also see the medallion type piece in the first photo; it's located in the shaft hole in the diff to make it easy to get a straight push off the press mandrel.

    Irish Mike, j-jock, Dyce and 5 others like this.
  3. Mike Colemire
    Joined: May 18, 2013
    Posts: 974

    Mike Colemire

    How good is a small Harbor freight lathe? I would love to have something to make a bushing or a threaded weld in bung and stuff like that. I need 2 spring bushings right now for 2 odd size leaf springs. I've got several and if I had a lathe I could cut some of the larger ones down to fit. It would just be used on projects and I sure can't afford a nice one.
    loudbang likes this.
  4. Mike Colemire
    Joined: May 18, 2013
    Posts: 974

    Mike Colemire

    Looks like they are a grand, probably pick a better used one up for that or a little more.
    Speedys Garage and tb33anda3rd like this.
  5. A nifty trick the guy that owns my go to transmission/rear end shop taught me was to get a spare set of bearings and hone the inner bearing surface so it goes on and off the carrier easily. Use those to set up shims for preload and then press on the bearings you are using for final assembly. Assuming you are using good quality bearings the dimensions are all identical and your measurements will transfer to the new bearings and give you correct preload. Did this when I set up my QC, worked great.
    Not that your tool isn't pretty slick as well !
    slack, loudbang and seabeecmc like this.
  6. Camsore
    Joined: Aug 28, 2011
    Posts: 44

    from Las Vegas

    Added a buffing wheel to my belt grinder.

    Attached Files:

    loudbang, juan motime and saltflats like this.
  7. There are only a couple of companies in China making the small lathes. The ones you get from Harbor Freight are made by the same people who make the ones sold on Ebay. You can find them on Ebay for about $400. Just remember, they are cheap so you won't get accurate products from it out of the box. If you don't need close tolerances, you can use them for hobby projects. Don't expect to make heavy cuts off of steel, softer materials should be ok.
    Sometimes they are better than nothing........and sometimes not.
    Crazy Steve and loudbang like this.
  8. buffaloracer
    Joined: Aug 22, 2004
    Posts: 774

    from kansas

    Lots of good ideas here. Stueee, I intend to copy your idea. I have a commercial one like you show and like the looks of yours a lot better. Camsore, looks like a very nice belt grinder. Mike, if you want something to do light work with you might look for an atlas or craftsman for less than your harbor freight price. A south bend 9' will likely be a little more.
    loudbang likes this.
  9. Found my little south bend on Craigslist. I had to mess with just a little to get it going. It also came with a WHOLE bunch of tooling for a few hundred bucks. Maybe you can keep an eye out too. It took a few months for the right one to come along but I was ready. I had gone and looked at plenty to hone my wants out of the tool.

    My budy came over to check it out, gave me a crash course on the thing and it's been earning it's keep ever since. Does all the things you talk about and more.
    loudbang likes this.
  10. I picked up a lot on the process.
    Set ups, capability, basics on accuracy, making simple parts, but not cutters. Nothing on the theory of how to get them to do what I want.
    loudbang and fauj like this.
    Joined: Jul 20, 2016
    Posts: 407


    True, I just didn't know in advance how much force I would be putting on the threads. Longer bolt would have helped to but they are hard to find fully threaded . But it works like a dream. I would suggest locating the bolts off the threaded holes because you can distort them. I had to chase mine out. -Phil
    loudbang likes this.
  12. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 4,243



    I think I understand what you're sayin'. If you're gonna make the puller anyway, how 'bout makin another similar plate that you could bolt onto the holes in the housing (a couple of bolts would be sufficient) and let your puller bolts push against this other ring? It would take a much larger hole in the center to allow the bearing and race to come out but would eliminate any possibility of damaging the housing threads.
    XXL__ and loudbang like this.
    Joined: Jul 20, 2016
    Posts: 407


    Good idea!
    loudbang and JOYFLEA like this.
  14. fatkoop
    Joined: Nov 17, 2009
    Posts: 711


    I use silly putty to push out pilot bushings. Stuff in hole, use appropriate size rod to pound with, out comes the bushing. Never fails.
  15. bobbytnm
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,232


    Great idea!! and a lot easier to clean up than grease. A big round of frosty beverages in your honor
  16. BuiltFerComfort
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,620


  17. godlemmy
    Joined: Apr 5, 2006
    Posts: 59


    loudbang likes this.
  18. cretin
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,857


    This isn't really a home made tool, more a home modified tool, but I think it still fits.
    I picked up this awesome rivet setter at an estate sale.
    I cleaned it up a but, and modified it to accept the hole punching dies from a Roper Whitney punch. It's much easier to line up the punch with it set up like this. I'll let the photos do the rest of the talking.

    54058001011__1F27DFC8-7D1D-42A6-8EB5-DA3D8BF753B1.JPG IMG_7600.JPG IMG_7601.JPG IMG_7602.JPG
  19. XXL__
    Joined: Dec 28, 2009
    Posts: 1,728


  20. Wanted to straighten the windshield opening on the '33 last week; dug out my old "pusher" made out of a piece of 1" alloy threaded rod and a piece of 1" pipe, adjusted the length with a piece of 3/4" pipe, and made a couple "shoes" to fit the corners and had the "diamond" out in no time.

    Anyway the rod and pipe make a handy pusher in lieu of a porta power; plus you can make custom ends easily.

    And a custom movement indicator in the middle of the ws opening.
    20180218_102352-COLLAGE (1).jpg
    dana barlow, Roadsir, RMR&C and 9 others like this.
  21. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 15,100

    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    here is a buffer stand i built about twenty years ago, i just got around to putting a switch on it today and a dust guard for the motor. i was just plugging it in when i wanted to use it. DSCF0001.JPG DSCF0002.JPG
  22. 33 & 1/3 post of his buffer reminded me the buffer we built a while needs a switch too; maybe have to bug the retired electrician neighbor. Snapped a pic when I was over to the kid's house today.
  23. WZ JUNK
    Joined: Apr 20, 2001
    Posts: 1,608

    from Neosho, MO

    IMG_6032.JPG Here is a one off set of plastic dies made for my bead roller. They were used for this one job only and probably will never be used again. I need threshold plates for my 54 chevy and I was not happy with the ones I bought as they touched the bottom of the doors and made it hard to close the doors.

    brEad, dana barlow, Roadsir and 7 others like this.
  24. seabeecmc
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 928


    My purchased used Craftsman drill press came with no mechanism to facilitate the adjustment of table height. No service parts available from Sears necessitated another solution. Trailer jack was a simple and effective fix.
    Also shown is a quick and dirty early Ford transmission stand. Ron tr1.jpg tr2.jpg 39a.jpg 39b.jpg
    RODIST, brEad, spurgeonforge and 9 others like this.
  25. Jethro
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,401


    P1010027.jpg I made this 2x72 inch belt grinder. Mainly to make blades but I've already used it to finish off a cut bolt and I rounded a piece of flat stock for a bracket...... P1010029.jpg P1010028.jpg It'll get used
  26. cretin
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,857


    Nice. I think I’m going to have to make a belt sander too, I can’t find a Wilton for a price I want to pay.

    So, I’m working on fixing and changing some stuff on a recreation of the Edsel Ford speedster. I needed to remake the front lower grill which has grill bars that start curved on the bottom, and as they move up the grill flatten out, then gently curve the opposite direction.
    Our slip roll has some grooves on the side of one of the rollers and would have worked for this, but creates too much waste on each end of the bars.


    So, I made a simple little bender for the job. I cut a couple strips of 1/2” thick steel and drilled and countersunk then to bolt in place of the jaws on a vice. I then welded some nuts to that and bolted on some spare bearings with some fender washers to help keep the rod in place. Now I have an easily adjustable bender, and I can remove them from the vice and stick them in a drawer when not in use.

    Here are some photos of it, and the grill I’m making using it.




    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
    brEad, jerseyboy, loudbang and 9 others like this.
  27. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,559


    WOW Great tip and a great grill!:D
    loudbang and cretin like this.
  28. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,149

    from NW Montana

    Nice job on the bender! mine was much more crude.....but it worked.

    DSCN0781.JPG DSCN0779.JPG
  29. J. A. Miller
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,207

    J. A. Miller
    from Central NY

    Can you share any pictures of the Speedster?
    loudbang likes this.
  30. cretin
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,857



    Thank you.
    Yea, benders like yours work great as well. We have one like that too, comes in handy.
    I wanted to be able to fine tune this one a bit more since some of the bends are so subtle.

    Sure, I’ve got it all torn apart at the moment, but I’ve got a couple photos from when it first came to us.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
    BradinNC, biggeorge, brEad and 5 others like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!


Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.