The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kustombuilder, Jan 16, 2008.
I have a 18" hunk of Railroad Track Rail that makes a most EXCELLENT anvil.
In preparation for putting the sheetmetal in my Fordoor sedan project http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=147848 , I needed a bead roller. I copied the inspiring HF bead roller makeover documented here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137858
I used 3/8 plate to give the HF unit some style and extra stiffness. The tubing is 1.5" square by .12 wall, salvaged from scrap barrel at work. I also took two stainlees steel vacuum flanges out of the same barrel. Got a bent steel rim for the base. The steel pipe was out in the yard so I wacked off 3 feet. I used 1" x .12 thick flat bar to flange the 3/8" plate. Here is what it ended up looking like:
Added a coat of black paint (black was on sale ):
Here is the first beads to come off the new machine:
I have a gearmotor I still plan to add to the assembly. I'll post a pic once I get the motor added to it.
Here is the fisnished bead roller, motorized with a foot pedal:
slight modded HF bead roller, plated in with 1/2", back side is also 1/2" with 2''x.250 flat bar to box it in. 1st gear motor was the same one that is normally used on "pro-tools" electric beader...but i stripped the trans gears....this motor is super overkill with case hardened replacable trans gears... and its geared down 2:1...approx 3 rpm both forward/reverse
couple handy attachments, an adjustable fence for doin long straight beads, and an adjustable "compass" for making perfect circle beads. and a shot of the foot pedal.
this will do beads in .090 stainless without any issues.
Some extremely impressive efforts. Many of us face complex restoration problems that can be very taxing and demand highly specialized tools.
Like this little beauty for doing early Chevies and other timber-framed models ...
Sooo, you're using an Oxy, Gorilla Glue mix?
Did you taper one end? This is the one I want to make. Cool,,,,,,
I built my E-wheel before I got involved in forums,so I didn't take many progress photos.
The radial arm saw adjuster does work good for a upper or lower adjuster.You can find them on e-bay or on Craig's list some times.
I did build another e-wheel for a friend of mine(Bill H) We used a radial arm adjuster on his as well.
Here is a few photos of how we did it.
Kerry Pinkerton and Tim Doty put up a real good thread on how to build a reciprocating hammer.I really liked Kerry's design and he is a Master tool builder.I asked if they could help me build one and for the past three weeks I have been working on it.
I still have a lot to do but I am getting close.My list of things to do is getting shorter anyways.
I don't have any pics, but in the past when I have revamped or rebuilt brake systems on cars, the bleeding part has always been a pain the rear. So I took a 2 gallon insecticide sprayer, the kind you pump to pressurize, on one side it has a pressure release valve and on the other the sprayer mechanism. I started by removing the release valve and plumbed in a air pressure gauge, it can be low pressure gauge as you won't go over 10 psi, also incorporated the release valve with the gauge. On the other side the sprayer mechanism is easily converted with clear tubing and fittings attached at the end, the other end of the sprayer mechanism is a piece of brake line that is sitting about 1/4 of an inch from the bottom of the tank. I took a piece of 1/4 plate steel drilled and threaded a hole for the brass fitting coming out of the clear tubing, make sure you hose clamp the tubing on both ends, thread the brass fitting in. I cut a piece of heavy truck bed rubber matting the same size at the steel plate, then epoxied it to the plate. I then use a C clamp and attach the plate to the top of the master cly. pour in brake fluid about a gallon, pressurize to 5-8 psi, start in the far rear corner open up your bleeder screw............viola a homemade brake bleeder..... I have used this on many different systems and it takes no time at all to fill and bleed a new system or flush a old system.....
The other thing I have built is I took an 40 gallon electric water heater, don't use the gas ones the tank is not the same. I built a wood burning stove from the tank, still have yet to install it, but it cost me nothing to build, people are glad to give you there old water heaters, used the torch to cut a door, some old hinges and a handle...........also welded a piece of 6 inch exhaut pipe I found in the scrap on top for the chimeney...
[FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica]Pro-tools wanted $180 + shipping for a die and I cannot afford it. So I improvised.
The radius cutter was made from a couple pieces of scrap stock steel, nut, bolt, and an upper jeep TJ rear shock mount.
The die that I am making with the radius cutter is a couple of junk aluminum mag rims melted and poured into an old coffee can. If you look closely you can still see ridges from the bottom of the coffee can.
I also attached a picture of what the upper shock mount looks..
Total cost so far is $0.00
Dig this one, BTTT.
Well there goes 10 years of teaching. I have been having alot of trouble trying to explain to my youngest son about the proper tool for the job. His attitude is any tool is a potential hammer, I guess he might be right.
That pic reminds me of a guy I worked with that had an old wood handled claw hammer in his box with a fitting and cord with a plug on the end coming out of the end of the handle. When asked about it he would say, "That old thing? That was before them newfangled cordless jobs came out". It was good for many laughs.
I always wanted a belt sander / grinder whatever the difference is. I have seen some nice machines on knifemaking sites but they were expensive. I stole some ideas from the ones I saw and made my own out of stuff lying around the shop. The only things I had to buy were the wheels: 10" wheel from Grizzly for ~$65 and the two 3" wheels from Sun-Ray for ~$30 each. It uses a 1 1/2 hp 1725 RPM motor that has plenty of power for me but I can slow it down if I REALLY lay into the workpiece. Grinding normally it will put a full radius on a piece of 1" wide, 1/2" think steel in less than 30 seconds, fast enough for me. I can index the machine so the flat platen is vertical (most of the time) or horizontal. The work rest can be used in either position, against the flat platen or against the 10" wheel. The small wheels are adjustable in all planes for tracking. It uses 2" x 72" ceramic abrasive belts and cuts like the Tasmanian Devil.
I use it constantly since I finished it. I never use the bench grinder any more.
The 2" machine is such a beast that I needed something more controllable for deburring, sharpening and the like. The previous owner of my house left an old 1 hp swimming pool pump behind when he left. Once I took the frozen pump off the motor worked fine. I used the pump attaching holes to mount a 1" x 2" tube frame. The wheels are from a belt sander I made in high school metal shop 45 years ago. They are cast aluminum with bronze bushings and a slight crown to make the belt track. I have a 1" x 42" 150 grit belt on it and it is really handy as well.
WOW! Thiaw belt sanders kicks ASS!!! I NEED one of those BAD!!
Question, Jim: How do you keep the belt from walking off the pulleys?
you guys are truly amazing...............love this thread..............
The little one has all 3 pulleys slightly crowned and no adjustment. The big one has adjustments on the 2 small wheels for tracking. I also just put a slight crown (only like about .030" or so) on the tension wheel to make it a little more stable. All you have to do is make sure the wheels are in the same plane and put a little crown on at least one if you can't adjust the wheel angles.
Interesting! Thanks Jim!
This is possibly the best thread on the HAMB.Words cant express how much this info will come in handy.Thanks to all who posted!
Yes, thats a splurpee straw duck taped to the end of my caulk gun......
Made the set up so i could get to some hard to reeech places under the floorboards after i replaced em.
Here's my English Wheel I made from a model A wishbone, its rough and none adjustable but its not too hard to go harder or softer just by applying pressure in different spots.
That second pic is me working the twist and small dents out of my friends valance panel.
Here's the mangled piece Montana started with:
The sad thing is that one is probably more sturdy than a Harbor Freight one.
I had an extra tool chest, so I made a wheeled dolly to bring the tools to the job, instead of going back and forth to the big tool box in the garage.
I put the top shelf up high so the lid can still open, for holding nuts, bolts, and small parts.
The most important part! I used a piece of pipe a little oversized, for those thick foam beer koozies I sometimes use.
I may mount a light under the shelf, and probably a powerstrip as well.
Made this. Worked good.
I never saw but one copy of American Rodder, and it belonged to a co-worker, and I gotta say I would pay money for a collection of those mags.
I found all of the mags in this thread off Ebay this afternoon, when they come I'll try to get some better scans up fer ya. I didn't buy the bansaw issue, I plan to build one from Vince Gingery's book.
<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0><TBODY><TR><TD height=98 vAlign=top width=526></TD><TD height=98 vAlign=top width=26></TD></TR><TR><TD height=560 vAlign=top width=552 colSpan=2>
Building a Metal Cutting Bandsaw
by Vince Gingery
Disgusted with a cheap $200 import bandsaw, Vince built his own. The actual saw table is 36" long and 9" wide. Most of the saw is bolted together from standard angle iron and strap, but there are a few welds. A 1/2 hp 1750 rpm motor powers the saw through a series of belts to achieve a blade speed of 159 feet minute which is right on target for cutting mild steel. Rate of descent is controlled through a mechanism build around a garage door spring.
This saw is of professional quality and performance with ball bearing blade guides and all the rest. You may want to design and build a coolant pump and catch pan. You need at least a nine inch lathe. The drive and idler wheels were fabricated from 8" diameter 3/8" thick steel pipe. They had a devil of time chucking sections in the lathe in order to turn them, but they pulled it off. The wheels drive a 14 tooth per inch raker of 94" length.
You'll also need a hacksaw, an electric drill, a drill press, and a torch is handy to cut section from the 8" pipe if your lathe can't do the job with a cutoff tool. Most of the machining is quite simple, but you need at least a 9" lathe, a 6" 3-jaw chuck, and a 6" four jaw. Only a few welds are needed, and they can be done with 75 amps.
You get the usual Gingery total how-to quality. Build it, modify it, or just dream about it. If nothing else, get a copy of this to make your Gingery library complete. Top rate! After all, it's a Gingery book. 5 1/2 x 8 1/2 softcover 167 pages
No. 1381 ... $16.95
</TD></TR><TR><TD height=120 vAlign=top width=552 colSpan=2><!-- #BeginLibraryItem "/Library/footer.lbi" --><!-- #BeginLibraryItem "/Library/footer.lbi" --><TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0><TBODY><TR><TD height=1 vAlign=top width=313></TD><TD height=1 vAlign=top width=119></TD><TD height=1 vAlign=top width=120></TD></TR><TR><TD bgColor=#ffffff height=18 vAlign=top width=552 colSpan=3> </TD></TR><TR><TD height=96 vAlign=top width=313></TD><TD bgColor=#333366 height=96 vAlign=center width=119>Lindsay Books
Get a Catalog
Place an Order
Contact Us</TD><TD bgColor=#333366 height=96 vAlign=center width=120>Land of Gingery
x </TD></TR><TR><TD height=1 vAlign=top width=313></TD><TD height=1 vAlign=top width=119></TD><TD height=1 vAlign=top width=120></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- #EndLibraryItem --><!-- #EndLibraryItem --></TD></TR><TR><TD height=1 vAlign=top width=526></TD><TD height=1 vAlign=top width=26></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Separate names with a comma.