The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kustombuilder, Jan 16, 2008.
Mine took a 6 foot bar 10# sledge and three people. just about broke my wrist.
Wow! What type of lathe?
Mine never needed more than a good yank. (that's what she said)
I recently sold my South Bend and got a somewhat larger Clausing. It uses an L-00 spindle mount, so I'm out of that stuck chuck business.
Well, at least that is a serious machine that can handle the 10# sledge!
It took one man holding the brake one (me) man pushing on the bar and another smacked the bar with the sledge wile I was pushing down on the bar.
The shock from the sledge went right up my wrist and you talk about some pain.
Man that chuck has taken some serious beatings in its life.
Yea, I know it can be done if you're careful. I just choose to err on the side of caution in this case. It's rare that I need to remove the chuck for my purposes anyway, so for me it isn't a big deal.
Yea, no kidding. I'm not surprised it has too much runout.
This was the chuck that came with the lathe when I bought it. I rebuilt the lathe, so it deserves a new chuck now.
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This chuck removal procedure works better if you actually clamp a scrap piece of 2" or 3" dia solid stock in the chuck tightly before you try to remove it.
It puts less load on the jaw, as having things locked down makes it all more rigid, and spreads the load across the other jaws and the face of the chuck more evenly.
I used to swap chucks with faceplates frequently, and it rattles all the teeth a lot less if you do this.
I mentioned i wasn't worried about doing it this way on this chuck because it's getting replaced, and would do it differently with a good chuck.
But, that's still good info in case someone who doesn't know comes across this.
I'm sure we've all worked with that guy that when things are tight they insist on a half a turn more. Always makes getting things back apart interesting.
This C clamp tool is particularly handy taking apart windshield frames.
This is like the first lathe I ever used. Very similar, from what I can tell.
It was in the USAF base hobby shop in Ogden Utah, and among other things, I used it to make a shifter and bucket seat spacers, for my 66 Ford Coupe.
I used lots of free chunks of military scrap (which when new cost the taxpayers a pretty penny.)
This seems like a good place to post this. An adjustable lifter tool for a flathead V8. Started out as a 1 7/8" muffler clamp. Works good.
^^^ That's pretty neat. The spanners I bought were useless.
likin the idea(s) floating around ...
I made a bunch of buckles for my tow straps without loops or hooks. So that i dont have to tie knots anymore. I know your not supposed to have hooks anyway because they act as projectiles but I just do light work with them. I thought it was a pretty awesome idea.
Making the rockers for my '41 Ford I needed to make a 90° bend on a long curve, so i figured I finally buy some tipping dies. Well, long story short, I couldn't find anyone selling singles that would work with my cheap-o HF bead roller, so I made my own. Just a couple of washers, a bushing and a set screw...
Once I got everything lined up and welded together (edit: I used some small rare earth magnets on my steel workbench to get everything nicely aligned and held for tacking, worked great) I used my drill press as a vertical lathe and used a belt sander to profile the edge...
Some big booger welds to impress everyone...
They worked well enough for what I needed. Just a little hammer/dolly clean-up on the warpage...
Here you can also see my really impressive homemade hillbilly bender, made from scrap and leftover '51 Ford parts
Nice job!...You must be in a rough neighbourhood! Couple sketchy looking characters watching you.
Hehe yeah they keep an eye on things when I'm not around. I find it nice to have some intellectual equals to bounce ideas off sometimes.
I turned this out on my cheapo Harbor Freight drill press with a stone and a file. Not exactly a tool and not car-related, but I made this new firing pin for my antique shotgun.
This was created from an old drill bit shank that happened to be the correct diameter. The old pin was worn down quite a bit shorter and had been dressed off by a previous owner. It was too short to be reliable.
I put 50 rounds on the new one and it's just right.
Here is another video of my rotary axis on my plasma table. It is simulating a cut to cut the end of the tube. It does't go all the way round as I still have some adjustments to make but am making very slow but positive progress.
Here is the 3rd and final video of my rotary axis build with cutting. I am cutting the letter "M" and there is also a pic of it after it was cut. Still need to do some minor work to it to get it working to its full capacity.
PS Thanks to the guys who liked my last post...And this 1 as well. Cheers!!!
Wow! That sure beats drawing tracer templates by hand.
I did a lot of those back before plasma became commercially available. When I was in college it was still a laboratory toy.
Nice work Big A! What did you use for bushing to fit the shaft? Hoosier Profiles makes a tipping wheel set for the HF and Woodward fab bead rollers. I have a woodward and the HP set but i like you're set-up, much less expensive. I'd recommend using a skateboard wheel or some other hard rubber lower wheel. It will allow the metal to stretch a little bit more at the bend line, making it easier to tip the flange to the desired angle. Good work.
I agree with the skateboard wheel idea, and bear in mind that they come in many different sizes, shapes, qualities & vary widely in hardness, from super soft to rock hard.
They're easy to shape into a V roller or U roller too.
Quality and accuracy of the skateboard wheel core varies greatly among the cheap brands. The very best ones have Precision aluminum cores but you could easily be talking $30 a wheel.
Look at the for sale ads on the skateboard forums and you will find guys selling collections of slightly used wheels in different shapes and hardnesses for a budget price.
(This collection is not for sale. )
Here is another video using my rotary axis on my plasma table. Thought it would be appropriate for a hot rod forum as I am cutting out flames in some 60mm pipe.
And here are 2 pics of the finished cut.
That would make slick tail pipe ends.
I can't take any of the credit as I have seen it somewhere else on the net. Still good as tail pipe ends.
Thanks for your comments and likes guys.
I made one of these, it's not strictly car related but more often than not.
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