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home made alternator brackets SBC

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by nunattax, Jun 16, 2013.

  1. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,370

    nunattax
    Member

    im in the process of making alternator brackets for my SBC transplant into a 38 chev.the origional brackets are too wide for the bodywork.id like to see what others have done. c mon show me yours
    nunattax
     
  2. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,531

    aaggie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Alan Grove makes the best brackets and inexpensive. I have the one that mounts the alt. to the water pump just above the inlet and a bolt into the front of the head. It is totally out of the way and was about $45 with hardware. Check out his website www.agcbracket.com.
     
  3. mustang6147
    Joined: Feb 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,847

    mustang6147
    Member
    from Kent, Ohio

    I second Alan Grove.... So much simpler... Great product
     
  4. I made this one. Yea you can buy them but it was too easy to make
     

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  5. Lobucrod
    Joined: Mar 22, 2006
    Posts: 4,122

    Lobucrod
    Alliance Vendor
    from Texas

    About 35 years ago before all the aftermarket brackets were available I took and early smog pump bracket and mounted the alternator on it. Works with the short water pump and mounts the alternator above the right valve cover. gave about 5 bucks for it at a wrecking yard and still have it.
     

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  6. Jay Tyrrell
    Joined: Dec 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,631

    Jay Tyrrell
    Member

    Where do you want to mount the alternator? If you are looking for something period correct then you need to hang that alternator either over the drivers or passenger on a longer bracket that resembles a hockey stick. Or if you want to mount it close in the passenger side infront of the head then a quick trip to the junkyard should find you a bracket. What are you looking to do? BTW Allan Grove brackets are expensive and not that great looking in my opinion.
    Jay
     
  7. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,370

    nunattax
    Member

    i want the alternator on the drivers side.i want to design the brackets myself.i want to use a merch performance rod to tension the belt.i would like to keep the pivot as low as i can but above the valve cover.i have edelbrock heads with 3 mounting points on the drivers side.there are no junk yards around here any more eu regulations put a stop to that.also there is no junk yard with american cars in it.there was one about 4 miles away when i was growing up but that guy has passed away now.had a couple of pints with him one sunday but he wasn t in the best of health then.seems the DYKER was a bit of a character.my main concern is keeping enough belt in contact with the water pump pulley to avoid belt slippage.i had to put a 10 mm spacer behind the p/s pump to align the belt. has anyone put a spacer behind the p/s pulley to align the belt.i am using 10 mm mdf to cut dummy brackets from to get the design right before i get any stainless cut.you cant beat doing it yourself usually cost as much if not more than buying a mass produced bracket but no where as much satisyfing. nunattax cork city,ireland
     
  8. Jay Tyrrell
    Joined: Dec 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,631

    Jay Tyrrell
    Member

    Take a pic of where you want it to sit man.
    Jay
     
  9. Pics are going to help a lot.

    Drivers side ? Do you guys drive on the opposite side of the road in Ireland?
    I'm not being a smart ass , I really don't know.

    Above the valve cover is pretty high and most likely going to need a large elaborate bracket to do that no matter how you skin that cat. Last thing you want is the alternator flopping around up there.

    There are brackets found on vans that mount the alternator down low right next to the crank hub. That will help with your belt contact area quite a bit. This bracket is also easy to make as well as commercially available. This would keep the body of the alternator within the width of the engine and if it fits between your frame rails you'll be good. Can do this by cylinder # 1 easily. Can also do this by cylinder # 2 if you aren't using the factory fuel pump.

    As far as spacers go, my power steering brackettry needed one spacer at the bolt that goes into the front of the head, the rest bolted in the proper holes.

    The brackets and pulleys are designed around the water pump length, there are two- known as long water pump and short water pump. Depending on model there are a few different configurations but All brackets and pulleys from the long system will mix and match - all brackets and pulleys from the short system will mix and match. None of the parts from a short system will mix with the long system and visa versa.
     
  10. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,132

    Russco
    Member
    from Central IL

    Here is a low mount I made for the little Denso alt. There is one very similar that is commercially available for the 10SI style alt. I think.
     

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  11. Rochie
    Joined: Nov 19, 2004
    Posts: 198

    Rochie
    Member

    Just about as simple as it gets. There is a bracket that runs from the top pump mounting bolt to the front of the alt. The adjuster bracket could be the adjuster rod you have already. I just drilled and tapped the heater hose boss on the top of the pump. A little thread sealer and you're good to go. This setup is with a short pump and it just clears the valve cover and fits inside the hood of a 29.
     

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    Last edited: Jun 17, 2013
  12. 66nova383
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 87

    66nova383
    Member
    from oregon

    I made this one for my Austin it mounts backwards on the frame rail, in front of the engine using the small nipendenso alt.I didn't have room to mount it down low on the side of the engine cause the frame rails are only 24" apart.Also the front sway bar is right there between the oil pan and frame.
     

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  13. I have a 38 Chevy coupe and mounted it low just like Russco's pics except I'm using a GM 70's alt. When I purchaced the car in 1978 it had an ugly heavy air conditioner type bracket on the pass side. The first time I seen the low mount driver side alt I had to get one. An alt wont fit unless it's above the engine with a fan belt running almost verticle or down low.
     
  14. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,370

    nunattax
    Member

    i have been working on this for most of the day,taking pictures as i go.i cant upload any as i cannot find the cardreader for the camera.if it doesnt turn up i ll have to buy another.
     
  15. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,370

    nunattax
    Member


    31 VICKY we drive on the opposite side to you guys,but the pickup is an American import so drivers side is drivers side it is LHD.i cut a few templates today from 10 mm mdf.the material was not very strong but i was able to see how the alternator would move and how a tensioning rod would operate and where i would mount it and the length i would need.i duplicated the best one in 10mm mild steel plate.bolted it up and mounted the alternator to it.it was very rigid .it should mount similar to the alan groves bracket only look cleaner.i have three pulleys on the crank .the inside one is for the air con not used .the middle one will turn the water pump and the alternator and the outside one turns the power steering pump.i will tweek the design tomorrow put the design on paper and get the design burnt outa 10mm stainless plate
     
  16. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,370

    nunattax
    Member


    russco,thats a very neat setup but my power steering pump is there.i would prefer to keep it up high out of harms way
     
  17. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,370

    nunattax
    Member

    i tried this one but i have the long water pump it wasnt working out
     
  18. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,370

    nunattax
    Member

    i have the same valve covers,i had previously had clearance problems with them so this time around i am using thicker cover gaskets.i need to move the pivot point up a little to compensate for the thicker gaskets
     
  19. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,302

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My son has one he made like Russco's, (he's a CNC machinist, bracketry is very clean...)

    About 500 miles and it spit one of the 3/8" standard bolts out of the cast iron mounting hole...
    Rich locate-drilled and inserted it, replaced the bolts with studs and nuts.
    10K miles and counting, no more problems...
     
  20. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,370

    nunattax
    Member

    http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/images/New_Images/Large/215R.jpg .
    ive been on the alan groves site this one looks neat,but it mounts on the water pump.reasonable price though.

    thanks for your replies and pictures i will get the photos up in the next few days.i was worried about slippage on the waterpump pulley but if the alan groves high mount brackets work mine will too
     
  21. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,998

    daddio211
    Member

    Last edited: Jun 17, 2013
  22. blue 49
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 1,302

    blue 49
    Member
    from Iowa

    Here's one I made that comes off the bosses on a late 60's Chevy pickup rams horn manifold. The heads I had at the time didn't have acc. holes. Tensioner bracket comes off the front motor mount holes.

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]

    Blue
     
  23. henry's57bbwagon
    Joined: Sep 12, 2008
    Posts: 676

    henry's57bbwagon
    Member

    I bought different Allan Grove brackets for my BB and did not like the fit so I made my own alt bracket and modified the A/C bracket to have it sit about 1/2" lower.

    [​IMG]
     
  24. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,370

    nunattax
    Member

    dropped my tech drawings to the engineering shop to be burnt by the laser on monday .niall said friday we will see.hopefully, waiting is a pain
     
  25. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,370

    nunattax
    Member

    well lads thanx for all the replies.i dropped the brackets off in june or july but only got the brackets back recently and they were 2 x 4mm instead of 2 x 5mm stainless plates.got a few spot welds on them anditlooks great but needs to be 10mm( 3/8) cause its not strong enough.have one done in 2x5mm mild steel and its really strong.i need to take the rad off to get a good pic but heres some i took today.

    the curved bracket on the waterpumpis made from 8mm stainless has a tapped bush/spacer silver soldered on.i want to put spacers behind the large bracket to allow air to circulate through the holes and cool the head better.hopefully i wont be waiting as long this time and get the spacers welded up and tapped for an arp bolt
     

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    Last edited: Dec 1, 2013
  26. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,370

    nunattax
    Member

    getting there.brackets bolts /washers in stainless , adjuster and alternator in aluminum .just the alternator pivot and bolt to sort out.the bracket bolted to the head is spaced out 5mm to aid cooling
     

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    Last edited: Feb 9, 2014
  27. You'll want 3 point mounting on the alternator, I only see 2. And one doesn't count because its got swivels on both Ends.
     
  28. maniac
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 539

    maniac
    Member

    I agree, a lot riding on that one bolt
     
  29. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,370

    nunattax
    Member

    maybe the photo is not clear enough.if u look at the photos in post#25 it shud be clearer.the brackets are rock solid and it all works as it should.the pivot is not finished yet
     
  30. maniac
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 539

    maniac
    Member

    I see that the bracket is very stout, but the alternator is only held to the bracket by the one 3/8" bolt at the bottom, look at other after market brackets and you will see that the bolt is supported at BOTH ends, not just one like yours
     

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