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Home built radius rod question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jaxx, Apr 18, 2008.

  1. jaxx
    Joined: Mar 22, 2008
    Posts: 401


    Im considering making my own radius rods for a scratch built frame / body combo and need to know if anyone knows how heavy the tubing should be for the hairpin parts of the rods ? I have some tapering rods that are 1/8 inch wall that taper from 1 inch to 3/4 inch that mike look kool but I dont know if that is stout enough . Any input would be helpful .
  2. 067chevy
    Joined: Sep 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,073


    I would use dom tubing. 7/8'' od x1/2'' id so you could tap the in side for hiem or clevis ends
  3. Harms Way
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 6,881

    Harms Way

    I have used 7/8", 0.156 wall, D.O.M. tubing,..... and BTW,.. you had better be a really good welder.
  4. Algon
    Joined: Mar 12, 2007
    Posts: 1,216


    Are you referring to swedged rods such as used in circle track cars?

    If so, they are used for tie rods, panhard bars and main rear suspension links so yes. I've used them myself before for the smooth taper the swedged area has for a clean look when building them. Otherwise most I've seen are either 3/4" 0.95 wall moly or 1" 1.20 wall but there have been some extreme cases like a PSI Hairpin cross spring, tube axle kit for a 55-57 Chevy I got from a buddy, they were 1" but 1/4 wall.

  5. We build a lot of rods and if you wish to use that size of tubing there is a threaded slug you can get to weld into the tube. The slug is tapered on the end and looks very good when finished. We drill three 3/8s holes in the tube then we press the slug into the rod then we plug weld the three holes shut. Dress the welds and paint or chrome. If you can't find the slugs pm me and I can get them for you.
  6. narducci
    Joined: Jan 3, 2008
    Posts: 194


    What are you scratch building?
    I am working on one myself, a 32 style hiboy with scratch steel body/frame, z'ed both ends to get it low

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