Holley choke horn removal?

Thanks for the part number. Can you post pics when you get it installed?

 

I think Mr. Gasket sells a 3/8" thick valve cover gaskets for the sbc.. Don't know part# for those.. Sorry!

 

5/16" p/n for cork is #179. If you want them in that new-fangled rubber shit, you'll have to look the number up yourself, I am old and cranky, and dont use that crap.

 

Thanks fellas!! I'll see if I can find the thick style. Mine are 3/8" I think. I'd prefer not to have to file the intake or my $$$ Edelbrock valve covers.
Domino: Will do!!

 

Heres what I have done in the past. Use studs in the valve cover bolt holes, slide two cork gaskets over the studs with grease on the bottom, gasket glue between the two gaskets. Bit mouse but it has worked for me when I needed just a little more...

 

That's what I did when I installed a set Crane (Ford Motorsport) 1.72 roller rockers on my 5.0L/302 motor.... The rockers were hitting on the inside of my stock HO valve covers..

 

None of the parts pushers had the thick gaskets, so I doubled up a set of standards glued together with rtv. Did the trick, but I had to lose the lock washers on the speed bolts. Got her all back together and running. Stub Stack is on the UPS truck as I type.

 

Very cool!!! Can't wait to hear about how it turned out..

 

Pic for Domino:



Issue # 2 is the stack hits the bottom of my air cleaner lid, so I'm going to order a 5" tall filter. That should do the trick.

 

Very cool!!

 

Thank you sir. I didn't think about the height issue. I am going to have to use a spacer under my air filter to clear the float screws, so this may not work for me.

 

So, how much ($$) for the stub stack if you don't mind me asking???..

 

I don't want to be a buzzkill here, but it's been mentioned that the Street Avenger is a pile of junk, there are WAY better performing carbs out there. I have yet to see one that didn't need shaft bushings in the baseplate straight out of the box. I feel like a Holley list #80541 would be a great out of the box carb for you, a little pricy, but a great piece. JMHO.........

 

Why didn't you ship the carb back too where you bought it from????

 

They belonged to shop customers, they were tired of messing with them and brought them in to where I work to see if we could find anything wrong with them.

 

Just bought one, new in the box, seems to be fine and I have built a ton of holleys.

 

Deuces: $40

in2hotrodz: I've heard that said, but I've had zero trouble with this carb that I didn't cause myself. The car runs pretty damn hard for the setup and while I know I could get more power with a different carb, I'm stuck with it for now as the car has more pressing needs.

 

So, how's the midrange torque feel so far???

 

You can either mill the choke horn and radius the sharp edges or use the stub stack w/ no choke blade. Another source of aiflow is the throttle shafts and butterfly edges. Remove the throttle shafts and file the shaft down to about 1/32 thick on both sides. You can knife edge the butterflies for a few more cfm. If done correctly you can gain around 100 cfm plus a stronger venturi signal ( better atomization)

 

Why not use the "thinner" 780 cfm throttle blades instead of knife edging the thick ones??? You could also buy the throttle shafts that are milled down from Holley.. Just gotta know the right part # for the carb your using..

 

The car pulls harder than it ever has now. Noticeably stronger. This was just the new intake and removed choke assembly. Whatever I did, also seems to have made the light throttle stumble much less noticeable. I had to get a taller filter to fit the stub stack, which is now installed. BUT, my first pull with the new intake finally killed my leaking rear main. This one lasted a little over a year. I don't know why I keep killing them, I have a functioning PCV system (breather in the driver's side valve cover, PCV valve in the passenger side cover). I may be installing it wrong, I don't know. It's a serious PITA. It's a one piece rear main, with the aluminum housing that bolts to the back of the block (Vortec block). New one is going in next week.

I'd love to hear from anyone who has experience with these Vortec blocks.

 

The Street Avenger is essentially a 4150. All the parts interchange. I don't know why they get a bad rep, my car runs like a scalded dog on mine. I only created this thread in the hunt for easy horsepower, not because it was causing me issues.

 

While we're buzzkilling, isn't the MSD Blaster 2 coil recommended to be mounted vertically?

 

Maybe?

 

Yes, here's the instructions:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...sg=AFQjCNGg7bqC9EbDvRLAcl6BK6g4zeHjVw&cad=rja

I think they will run hot and tend to fail unless mounted upright.

 

Well, It's been like that for 6 years and it was in another car for 4 years before that........

 

OK, got the rear main fixed. Tested the car out with the new taller filter and stub stack. I can't say it feels any stronger than it did with just the new intake, but throttle response is night and day different now. Much sharper and sensitive down low, with me just barely having to apply pressure to keep it moving. The light throttle stumble is gone and it don't know the the stub stack is responsible, but it idles smoother as well. $40 well spent just for the increased throttle response. I'm a believer in this stub stack, thanks for the recommendations!!

 

Spent alot of time with a dyno and carbs for circle track racing. and i agree with what was said above leave it on remove the choke plate and use a stub stack the advantage is the same. and you didn't damage the carb

 

That's why I went this way, so I can put the choke back on if I were to sell the carb. I really can't say enough about how impressed I am with the difference.