Been having a few poor running issues with the 1904 Holley on my 223 Ford /Edsel so purchased a spare in really good condition, IE no wear on the spindle or been butchered so put it on and the engine ran loads better but still had a flat spot at about 1/4 revs + it started flooding I tried another carb that i recently purchased put it straight on and adjusted it now it runs perfect, I have stripped the other carbs but can find no reason why they wont run properly but what I have noticed is that they have different float valves , out of three on has a disc with rubber insert one has rubber tip and the other has stainless tip It seems like the only ones that dont flood are the disc and stainless type, I intend to run a dual setup so want to build matching units so want quality rebuild kits and advise on where to purchase them I still cant get my head around why the others didnt run properly as they are spotless inside
The needle & seat in them are goofy. The main screw (inside the fuel inlet) for the N&S assembly passes thru the main body and screws into an assembly inside the bowl area, there is a small fiber washer that must go between the assembly pieces. If that washer is left out you'll experience what you're describing, you'll think the N&S isn't sealing but its that missing washer. It is a very thin little thing and a prick to get it on the threaded shaft coming in from the outside that screws into what the float/N&S casting piece.
Good info from oj. Also make sure the float bowl will seal properly. I have several of those carbs that have been ruined by some gorilla over tightening the bowl screws.
I just went through the same thing with my 1904. A touch of anerobic sealant on the washers (mine were copper) between the seat body and the screw took care of the problem. A word of advice unrelated to the float: make sure you get the small rubber washer installed between the screw head and accelerator pump nozzle or it will leak rather than spray. I tore the carb down a second time just to discover is still didn't work. Trying to figure out what could be the problem, then I saw a tiny washer that I failed to install. The problem 30 seconds to fix once I figured it out. Learn from my mistake, lol.
Thanks for the advise, I will go through the other carbs with a fine tooth combe , I suppose the best bet is to buy genuine Holley parts on rebuild, One other problem I have is its harder to start when hot and now I have a glass float bowl I can see the petrol bubbling until it cools down , I am thinking on putting an insulator block under the carb, what else has the same stud spacings , will a Chevy I6 insulator fit ? I have ob
Out of the four carbs i have 1 had the main casing distorted and damaged threads the other i was lucky , it was the lugs on the bowl that were bent, will be putting a glass bowl on that one
From the factory, Ford used a stack of 5-6 gaskets under these carbs as a heat insulator. I have also made them from hardwood or plastic. Pretty simple with a hole saw and a gasket for a template...
I forgot this problem, the accelerator pump often takes 2 gaskets. There is that odd looking gasket that is the accelerator pump gasket and then there is an identical gasket except for an empty hole the accelerator gasket part is. The original carb may not have come with this 2nd gasket but if it is in your kit then you install it right over the other gasket. Then 1904's can be a challange.
223s used the Loadomatic ignition where the spark advance was controlled by vacuum via a " spark valve" on the carburetor. The carburetor and distributor were matched pairs. If the carburetor is not LOM compatible or dual 1904 s are used..... The distributor must be changed to a after market mechanical advance or a vacuum mechanical from a 300 I 6.
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