So, in my off topic car I decided to replace the interior. When I pulled the carpet and headliner I found some rust, no rust through, mostly surface rust with some pits. At the advice of a former body shop owner, I stripped it down and wire wheeled/sanded all the rust out, then treated it with Rust-Mort. It was then wiped down with wax and grease remover, primered with Rustoleum and painted with Rustoleum. Now that it is done I am re-thinking how well this will hold up. It is all in the interior which "should" stay dry but I plan to keep the car for a long time and I am worried about the rust coming back. Also, I couldn't get behind some of the bracing but was able to get the rust-mort sprayed in there. I am thinking about biting the bullet and having the interior blasted while it is all torn out, then Por-15 and seal it up forever. I don't worry about re-doing my work but I would hate to get the dash and all the interior panels back in then have to remove them again.
Between the wirewheeling, rust-mort, Rustoleum primer and paint, I'd say you encapsulated it. Living in Vacaville is also a positive. I'd call it done, myself...
Yeah Vacaville is fairly dry most of the year (except Jan-Feb when our total annual rain comes all at once). I am probably being overly cautious as the car is 24 years old and this is all it had on it. But I still want to be sure. Thanks for the re-assurance TotallyCustom
Remember that even if you went to the trouble to tear it down, blast everything and do the POR 15 bit - you still cannot get behind the braces. what you have done should work well for many years. Also rmember that no matter how you do the job, rust NEVER sleeps. Also media would fall from hidden places for ever if you did blast the car or even parts of it.
what you did should be just fine.......they were not even that good when new back in the day. i used to use rust mort quite a bit on beaters. have moved on to other things, but it always did the job skull
Yea, the roof really only got paint because of the overspray when the factory painted the exterior. Thanks for putting my mind a little at rest. Now onto the insualtion/sound deadener and getting the interior back in. btw I picked up the insulation from Automotive Insulation, one of the Alliance vendors here. I picked up 200 sq ft and am amazed how light it is. I read good things about it so I am looking forward to seeing how well it works.
One part of the package, doable only after all metal and paint work is done, should be OIL. Tiny amounts wherever metal is pinched together or otherwise blocked from access. Door edges are a good example...a tiny amount of oil will creep into every bit of the area you cannot see or treat. Done adter painting, the excess can simply be wiped away whereever it seeps out until only the amount trapped within the seam remains.
Could probably use the used oil from the oil change, have seen where carmakers spec'ed that for oiling hinges and the like. You do know POR-15 is for use on rust, right? It won't stick that well to clean bare metal (such as a blasted clean surface), although a blasted surface might have some tooth for it to grab better than smooth metal.
Just motor oil...a tiny amount on a pich seam will spread all around, and you can see a bit at the edge to confirm arrival. Then...you keep wiping. Add more every couple years if heavily used in actual weather. I think the average car has half an acre of totally unreachable tin in pinch seams, spotweld areas, and such, and at least some og it may never have had any finish at all. This coats it with almost no work. Doors are done from the inside...a squirt or two on the parts of the backs of edges will spread all around.
I've been a fan of RustMort for many years. Great stuff. But if you read the directions....you must neutralize by wiping with a water dampened cloth or rinsing with water before painting. And it must be painted. That scenario doesn't work too well on interiors. I've recently switched to another (actually 2) SEM products for interiors and underbody, frames, etc. 1. Rust Seal http://semproducts.com/images/tech_files/3930( ) TDS.pdf You don't have to do anything else, but can paint. 2. Paint with Rust Shield http://semproducts.com/images/tech_files/RSH TDS.pdf Seems to work great.
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