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High Temperature Body filler for engine

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1960impala283, Nov 1, 2011.

  1. 1960impala283
    Joined: Sep 20, 2011
    Posts: 43


    I want to smooth out all the casting on the engine block and heads on my engine that I am building. I am looking for a suitable product that can stand some heat. I have found that RM Epoxy primer stands up good and so does Urethane paint, but I need a filler for the really rough parts.

    Any recommendations for a filler? :confused:
  2. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,072

    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    If you do a good job grinding and sanding the castings, you won't need much filler at all. Just a tiny bit to fill in small scratches/pits in the castings. I've used regular bodyfiller, and polyester glaze on engines, in tiny amount,s and it's held up OK.
    If you are really concerned or need to do a larger area for some reason, LabMetal is great at hi-temps, used under powdercoating, IIRC.
  3. Cerberus
    Joined: May 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,392


    J-B Weld. I've read farmers used JB-Weld in emergencies to fix cracked blocks on their tractors. J-B may be kinda hard to feather edge.
  4. JB Weld

  5. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    from florida

    If you spend enough time with Roloc discs you can get it as smooth as a babies butt. But if you need a heat resistant filler that is sandable," Tiger Drylac EPO Strong" is what we have used for up to 400 degree powdercoating work.

  6. 1960impala283
    Joined: Sep 20, 2011
    Posts: 43


    Didn't know you could powdercoat over filler. That's good to know. Labmetal, and Tiger Drylac. I'll see if I can find some. Thanks.

    I'll sand it down as smooth as I can. I've done it to another motor and the paint has held up great since 1994, except a small amount around the exhaust, but I guess that has to be expected. This block has some circle indents and such that are too deep to sand out.
  7. 1960impala283
    Joined: Sep 20, 2011
    Posts: 43


    500 degrees should work. I've actually never used JB weld. Might actually have a use for it now.

    I should get some of the other Labmetal and use it on the oil pan and valve covers and get them powdercoated. Might stand up to gas better than paint.
  8. mrforddude
    Joined: May 30, 2010
    Posts: 134


    If you want to use the JB Weld (Quick-Steel will work too) in order to get it to smooth out just moisten your fingertips with water and start working it out like you would putty (as it starts to set up)...I helped do a quickie cylinder repair on a POS 2-stroke motorcycle many years up great till the rest of the bike fell apart
  9. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,204


    No filler in this, lots of grinding and sanding, some 2pak primer and 2pak top coat. I'm running a good sized radiator and an engine oil cooler as I know it will run a little hotter.

    Attached Files:

  10. If you spend 14-16 hours grinding and polishing the block as I do, two coats of high build primer is all you need to prep it for paint. If you do this I hope that you like the taste of cast iron because that's all you'll taste for a couple days even with a mask on. Never had a motor run hot after doing this and been doing it 30 years.
    Custom_Crestline likes this.
  11. wombat barf
    Joined: May 1, 2011
    Posts: 366

    wombat barf
    from oklahoma

    .....because those rough points are essentially acting as cooling fins. never thought about that but now it seems pretty obvious.
  12. 1960impala283
    Joined: Sep 20, 2011
    Posts: 43


    I haven't had any problems with the sbc I smoothed out in 1994, It's still a dream to keep clean as well. I spent a lot of time grinding that one.

    I like the colour Mgtstumpy, we had several gallons of that from a mis- batch years ago. We are painting the Essex engine and suspension the same. I even made sure to put some on my 60 chevy, just for nostalgia's sake
  13. Never seen a green transmission..........
  14. CharlieLed
    Joined: Feb 21, 2003
    Posts: 2,463


    If "Tiger Drylac EPO Strong" is conductive, as the maufacturer states, then would it be suitable to electroplate over? Anybody tried it?
  15. I gonna try and find this as well. I have some wheels that I want to powder coat and they have some small rust marks that need to be filled before getting coated.
  16. 1960impala283
    Joined: Sep 20, 2011
    Posts: 43


    Is there an "Engine Candy" thread on the go? Don't want to start another, but a search for Beautiful engines isn't turning any thread up. I have spotted some georgous motors, that members are running. But no thread just on motors..... like this caddy motor....
  17. Fourdy
    Joined: Dec 9, 2001
    Posts: 455


    I have always had pretty good luck using a dp primer and follow-up with base coat/clear coat. That cast iron taste sure DOES hang around. lol


    Attached Files:

  18. whid
    Joined: Jun 20, 2008
    Posts: 452


    man thats nice.....whid
  19. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 972

    from WV


    Pulling this one back up. Last Post was 2011. A lot has changed since then. I plan to cerakote my engine, and use labmetal for filler.

    Any new recommendations?

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