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High School Re-Pop -- Only Nailhead Lovers Need Apply

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by C9, Sep 6, 2003.

  1. [ QUOTE ]
    DITTO! I've put a 401 in a '32 5 window and am contemplating an alternator bracket. Ant pics appreciated!!

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I'm not sure a generator or alternator would fit in a Nailhead powered Deuce if it's off to the side like the stock mount shows in the pic above.

    At the risk of offending some with my billetness, take a look at an aluminum mount on a 455 Buick in my 31 roadster.
    Keep in mind, it could be easily duplicated in steel.

    I understand there are no accessory mount tapped holes in Nailhead heads so you'd have to do the mount a little differently, but this may start you thinking.

    An alternative method will follow this post.


    Attached Files:

  2. Here's an alternative that should work ok if the adjuster bracket is a sturdy one.

    The big trick with these mounts are the bushing spacers.
    Don't end up with a stack of washers - cept for fitting etc. - as that method will allow the bolt to shear off.

    I think this may work for you on the Deuce/Nailhead combo.

    One more alternative follows.


    Attached Files:

  3. Here's an all-steel mount.
    You'll have to use your imagination a bit.

    This particular mount is in a 39 Chevy if I remember right and the mount is sitting on a small block.

    There are two pieces of angle, the one that shows and another welded to the backside of it.
    That's why the angle on the angle piece you see.

    The first angle piece was drilled to fit the intake bolts and I think there is a very short spacer underneath.
    The second angle piece was drilled to fit the alternator bracket.
    The alt bracket proper looks to be a regular junkyard piece that is bolted to the upper angle piece.
    More than likely the alt bracket was slid back and forth until belt alignment was right on, marked and then drilled.

    Speaking of belt alignment you can make an excellent tool for checking same out of a straight piece of 1/4 x 1" flat aluminum.
    I have several different lengths of the 1/4 x 1" and cut a new one when needed.
    Drill em so you can hang em on the pegboard.

    The 1/4" thick straight edges are easy to lay on the backside of the pulleys in most cases and in others you get a better line of sight than you would if you used a ruler or yardstick.


    Attached Files:

  4. Crosley
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 1,037

    from Aridzona

    I really like the engine mount you built for the car.

  5. Nads
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 11,630

    from Hypocrisy

    Swell '57.
  6. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,686


    On the transmission subject: I think the Super Turbines came later- like into the sixties, which could make it the stock 425 tranny, but it didn't come in the '57 stock, that would've been a close drive Dynaflow. If it is the ST, however, that would explain the open drive.
  7. [ QUOTE ]
    I really like the engine mount you built for the car.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Long as I'm rambling on, here's a short report on how they work.
    The frame mount on the 31 - which is the car in the photo - has a 1/2" hole drilled in it for the mounting bolt.
    I wasn't worried about harmonically induced vibrations when the car was headed for the dry lakes & Bonneville, but did think about it a bit since I decided to put it on the street for a while.

    Entering into all this thinking was the 32 roadster had developed an occasional clicking/popping noise in the front end during cornering.

    Going by the old hot rodders method of "process of elimination" I started by installing new polyurethane bushings - did find one cracked one.
    That didn't do it and then I started thinking that maybe the shims above the Durant Monoleaf were shifting on the corners even though the car has a panhard bar and the poly bushings in it were ok.
    Lowered the spring, pulled the shim stack and tack welded them together front and rear. Tacks cuz I may wanna change somewhere down the line.
    Re-installed, didn't help.

    I noticed that if the pop came in on a left turn it wouldn't come in again until the next right turn.
    Keeping that in mind, I got it to pop on a right turn and went down the road to a big left hand out in the country sweeper that you could take at 55 even though posted 25.
    The 25 post due to poor visibility on the right turn entering the left hand sweeper. Once you're around that you can get with the program safely.

    As the centrifugal force built, the pop came in and the steering - held steady as the car accellerated - didn't react which pretty much told me the motor mounts were the problem.

    The 32 has mounts very similar to what you see on the 31 in the above photo.
    Difference being it used 48 Ford rubber cushions with a firm durometer - rubber hardness. Some aftermarket cushions are quite soft.
    As well as the frame mount was drilled just a touch over 13/16" so the lower Ford cushion with it's molded step could fit within and locate the engine transversely.
    You guessed it, ten years down the road the lower cushions had softened up a bit and were allowing the engine to shift.

    I machined a lower aluminum cup like you see on the 31 although the 32's cup has a step in it that fits the 13/16"+ frame mount hole quite precisely and the center hole is drilled for the 1/2" bolt.
    Up top, an aluminum load spreader pad/cup was made just like you see on the 31. It's drilled for 1/2" also.
    A couple of 3/4" thick UHMW plastic biscuits were cut out with a hole saw and the OD turned to fit the upper and lower aluminum cups.

    First test drive has it running smoother and quieter than the Ford cushions.
    There is a metal to metal contact between bolt and frame mount via the aluminum cup, but I don't hear or feel any vibrations from the engine and most importantly the GD popping/clicking noise is gone.
    Front end noises are about the scariest ones there are far as I'm concerned.

    This was a nice cure and even nicer, an early test for the 31's mount system.

    A long read for perhaps a short amount of information, but I think it's important to know the why of a problem as well as a bit of a how-to on the cure.

    As hard as that cotton-picking UHMW is you wouldn't think it would damp out vibrations, but it does.
    All about the differences in elasticity between steel and plastic I guess.

    Pretty cheap mounts too. I probably used fifty cents worth of UHMW to make the cushions and at least a dollars worth of aluminum.
    I don't count the time cuz tinkering and building are just part of the hobby.
  8. burndup
    Joined: Mar 11, 2002
    Posts: 1,938

    from Norco, CA

    Whats the long name for UHMW? Urothane sumthin? Ultra high density medium weight???

  9. Micha
    Joined: Jan 30, 2002
    Posts: 16


    Sweet! Nice interior shots, I just love that kind of stuff. Thumbs up!
  10. [ QUOTE ]
    Whats the long name for UHMW? Urothane sumthin? Ultra high density medium weight???

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Ultra High Molecular Weight

    Plastics houses have it as will some farm supply outfits.
    I get mine at Industrial Rubber in Tulare, California.
    They sell Lexan, Plexi, Neoprene, UHMW as well as Teflon.

    UHMW is about a tenth the price of Teflon and I'd venture to say you shouldn't use Teflon.
    Both UHMW and Teflon are used as sliding bearings in industry, but Teflon is way sliperrier (is that a word?) than UHMW and UHMW is 70% stronger than Teflon.
    Kinda nice that the best stuff to use works out cheaper than the other stuff.
    Most times it's the other way round.

    Most places that carry UHMW etc. have what they call a rem - for remnants - barrel and will sell pieces big enough for hot rod use for way cheap.

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