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high build sprayable filler primer

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by v8nova64, Aug 16, 2011.

  1. v8nova64
    Joined: Jun 4, 2011
    Posts: 134

    from !!

    please delete
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2012
  2. OshkoshRob
    Joined: Jun 16, 2008
    Posts: 388

    from Oshkosh

    Marhyde is relatively cheap and sands easy but shrinks like a mofo....
    I've used many times with decent results. you'll want to spray it over a surface thats been sanded to at least 220 grit to keep the shrinking to a minimum.
  3. Willy301
    Joined: Nov 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,426


    I use PPG CRE but it is an epoxy.
  4. Flat-Foot
    Joined: Jul 1, 2010
    Posts: 1,709

    from Locust NC

    The PPG shopline stuff is good and real affordable.

  5. I used Advantage 2k urethane high build primer, it's easy to work with and sands down to 800 grit real well, and it's cheaper than ppg stuff.
    My .02 :)
  6. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,375


  7. Roger Walling
    Joined: Sep 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,149

    Roger Walling

    I was primering a belly pan once and there were some real deep creases. Just for the hell of it, I filled one crease that was 1/4' deep.:eek:

    To my amazement it sanded out well and no sign of a crease.:D

    (Don't try this at home, we are what they call professionals :rolleyes:)
  8. Evercoat has a number of high build polyesters that are reasonably priced, build well and sand nicely.
  9. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,151


    Do you have some pix of what your trying to fill? Bondo sanding scratches, pitted metal, what? The thicker you lay this stuff on the more problems you can expect. Are you using a sphion gun or HV?
  10. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None

    I use Evercoat's Slick Sand. It sands nice wet or dry( its an urethane) but does require a big tip paint gun to shoot it. I run a 2.0 tip and its all it can do to spray it evenly. One application (2 coats) is 3 mills thick,so take it easy or you will have thickness problems.
  11. Slick Sand is a polyester not a urethane
  12. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None

    Its a urethane based polyester, read the can.
  13. Also used some Evercoat Slick Sand, worked good and isn't as noxious as the 2K primers.
  14. jipp
    Joined: Jun 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,112


    i thought these shrunk over time.. are these filling primers different?
    i will be painting my own project down the road.. so just trying to learn here..
  15. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None

    Like all "filler" primers slick sand does shrink over time, but not as bad as some of the other brands do.I try to set the project out side or allow sit and 'set" for a couple of days before I sand it. I've had Feather Fill shrink badly on a black paint job and showed a ton of sanding scratches. Luckily it was a motorcycle gas tank and didn't take much to re-do.
  16. 56oldsDarrin
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 396


    I am big fan of the Feather fill G2, by Evercoat, I have by now sprayed at least 25 gallons or more (not on one car) and although it has rules of its own, it has never let Me down.
    It is chemically more like sprayable Bondo, and if you keep that in mind it works great.
  17. kmc777
    Joined: Aug 8, 2010
    Posts: 59

    from sedaliamo

    i've used 5-star high build primer with great results. it seems to work with other paint types with no probs. i have noticed that i have to use an extra coat to fill but with the cheaper cost i get more jobs done for the same price of a gallon of the GOOD stuff. jmo kmc
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,247


    It depends on how much filling you need. U-POL is the best stuff I've shot in my 34 years of painting. REFACE is their Polyester Fill Primer. UP - 2225 Urethane is their High Build Urethane Primer. sells the U-POL UP2252 stuff. TCP Global sells the REFACE
    I won't use anything else. I do paint jobs that are $ 12,000.00 and up.

    Good Luck.

  19. 58 wagon
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 256

    58 wagon
    from tucson,az

    i like using napas brand of cheap 2k which is now labeled as acne 2k primer its about 130 or less for the gallon and hardener it sands well and works great for me you also want to use a 1.5-1.8 tip gun for primer and let your coats flash for about 10 mins or so before applying your next coat but on a black car i would prob spend the money for ppg 2k yellow high build its great stuff just pricy
  20. 54pumpjack
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 66


    I use the PPG shop line stuff also, sands great and price is reasonable, I think somewhere around 130 a gallon kit.
  21. noxided
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 780


    look at tcp global, they have some, cheap and thick
  22. rawkie
    Joined: Sep 28, 2008
    Posts: 301


    PCL, polyprimer, 901 grey or 907 white. hi-fill polyester primer. runs about 70 bucks a gal. but lays down clean
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2011
  23. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,844

    from trevose pa

    My question is what paint are you top coating with,I still do bodywork like they did in the 70's because of cost,I use laquer based featherfill..............
  24. Redbuddy
    Joined: Jun 10, 2011
    Posts: 137

    from Cordova al

    o Reilly auto parts has it in my town 70$ gallon. Sands good fills good better have a big gun
  25. ironpile
    Joined: Jul 3, 2005
    Posts: 915


    I`m using TPC global on my truck now,appears to be working well .
  26. I'A lot of body guys got the nickname "Dusty" because they were never able to master the basics. It is amazing that the good body guys were never really dirty. This is a testament to the usage of the correct techniques and the dedication to learn them.

    I'm assuming this is your first attempt at body and paint work . Take the time to learn how to get a panel straight with the proper filler techniques before priming. Primer is not a cure all for poor bodywork. If your unable to get the bodywork straight with the body filler what are your chances of getting the panel straight with the addition of primer ? An old body guy I worked with over 40 plus years ago said and its still true today " if it takes more than 3 coats of primer, your metal work ain't right. Do it over. "

    Some of the more difficult tasks to master in filler application is assessing how large of an area requires filling , applying the filler smoothly and not digging out the applied filler ( undercutting ).

    One of the more helpful things you can do is use no power tools until you can get a dent filled correctly. Doing it by hand gets one to pay more attention to what they are doing . Learn what a proper featheredge is in paint . You should have this same featheredge with the body filler to the metal. Any sharp or distinct filler edge will result in a visible flaw in your paintwork. You need to read the panel after the application of filler. This will tell you where to put a little more and sand little less. Always apply your filler with the curve of the panel. You should avoid applying against the curve at all possible times.
    My best suggestion ,for applying filler to a panel with a plastic spreader ,is to adhere a piece of 3/4 masking tape to the top of the filler spreader. Use the widest spreader the does not interfere with the apllication. Now keep all your fingers on the tape when spreading your material. This little trick keeps one from placing too much pressure on the filler and forcing it out of the dent and also gets a more smooth and uniform fill which should require less effort to sand straight.

    I hope these are helpful.

    As far as your fill primer goes you get what you pay for. Stick with a good quality 2 part primer from DuPont , PPG or other company . Just be sure to keep your materials confined to one company since these products are designed to work as a system including top and seal caotings. I dont believe in hi build primers like "Featherfill" . They are just a crutch used as an excuse not to finish work correctly. Using old laquer based materials is just a waste of time and money.

    Best Regards
  27. Erkenbrand
    Joined: Aug 6, 2009
    Posts: 102


    I have to try that trick with the masking tape on the top of the spreader. I always run into problems pushing out the filler, and it drives me nuts. I have a tendency to do 'one more pass' with the spreader to make it all perfect, which ends up just killing the job. Thanks for that tip!
  28. Blackmaria60
    Joined: Apr 30, 2008
    Posts: 532


    LOL Thank God! That made me laugh. Hard. And out loud. :D
  29. notrod13
    Joined: Dec 13, 2005
    Posts: 988

    from long beach

    thats the stuff .... ! spray it thick fill er up and let sit for 24 -48 hrs then sand down... all the shrinkage should be gone by then
  30. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,151


    V8nova can YOU answer any of these questions? You have asked 4 times 'how much' because you can not find any prices on the 'net. Where are you looking? And your location, any local outlets?

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