The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by v8nova64, Aug 16, 2011.
Marhyde is relatively cheap and sands easy but shrinks like a mofo....
I've used many times with decent results. you'll want to spray it over a surface thats been sanded to at least 220 grit to keep the shrinking to a minimum.
I use PPG CRE but it is an epoxy.
The PPG shopline stuff is good and real affordable.
I used Advantage 2k urethane high build primer, it's easy to work with and sands down to 800 grit real well, and it's cheaper than ppg stuff.
I just bought some of the TPC Global 2K High-build. Haven't tried it yet, but it seems to be getting good reviews and it's priced pretty well:
I was primering a belly pan once and there were some real deep creases. Just for the hell of it, I filled one crease that was 1/4' deep.
To my amazement it sanded out well and no sign of a crease.
(Don't try this at home, we are what they call professionals )
Evercoat has a number of high build polyesters that are reasonably priced, build well and sand nicely.
Do you have some pix of what your trying to fill? Bondo sanding scratches, pitted metal, what? The thicker you lay this stuff on the more problems you can expect. Are you using a sphion gun or HV?
I use Evercoat's Slick Sand. It sands nice wet or dry( its an urethane) but does require a big tip paint gun to shoot it. I run a 2.0 tip and its all it can do to spray it evenly. One application (2 coats) is 3 mills thick,so take it easy or you will have thickness problems.
Slick Sand is a polyester not a urethane
Its a urethane based polyester, read the can.
Also used some Evercoat Slick Sand, worked good and isn't as noxious as the 2K primers.
i thought these shrunk over time.. are these filling primers different?
i will be painting my own project down the road.. so just trying to learn here..
Like all "filler" primers slick sand does shrink over time, but not as bad as some of the other brands do.I try to set the project out side or allow sit and 'set" for a couple of days before I sand it. I've had Feather Fill shrink badly on a black paint job and showed a ton of sanding scratches. Luckily it was a motorcycle gas tank and didn't take much to re-do.
I am big fan of the Feather fill G2, by Evercoat, I have by now sprayed at least 25 gallons or more (not on one car) and although it has rules of its own, it has never let Me down.
It is chemically more like sprayable Bondo, and if you keep that in mind it works great.
i've used 5-star high build primer with great results. it seems to work with other paint types with no probs. i have noticed that i have to use an extra coat to fill but with the cheaper cost i get more jobs done for the same price of a gallon of the GOOD stuff. jmo kmc
It depends on how much filling you need. U-POL is the best stuff I've shot in my 34 years of painting. REFACE is their Polyester Fill Primer. UP - 2225 Urethane is their High Build Urethane Primer. www.autobodytoolmart.com sells the U-POL UP2252 stuff. TCP Global sells the REFACE www.tcpglobal.com.
I won't use anything else. I do paint jobs that are $ 12,000.00 and up.
i like using napas brand of cheap 2k which is now labeled as acne 2k primer its about 130 or less for the gallon and hardener it sands well and works great for me you also want to use a 1.5-1.8 tip gun for primer and let your coats flash for about 10 mins or so before applying your next coat but on a black car i would prob spend the money for ppg 2k yellow high build its great stuff just pricy
I use the PPG shop line stuff also, sands great and price is reasonable, I think somewhere around 130 a gallon kit.
look at tcp global, they have some, cheap and thick
PCL, polyprimer, 901 grey or 907 white. hi-fill polyester primer. runs about 70 bucks a gal. but lays down clean
My question is what paint are you top coating with,I still do bodywork like they did in the 70's because of cost,I use laquer based featherfill..............
o Reilly auto parts has it in my town 70$ gallon. Sands good fills good better have a big gun
I`m using TPC global on my truck now,appears to be working well .
I'A lot of body guys got the nickname "Dusty" because they were never able to master the basics. It is amazing that the good body guys were never really dirty. This is a testament to the usage of the correct techniques and the dedication to learn them.
I'm assuming this is your first attempt at body and paint work . Take the time to learn how to get a panel straight with the proper filler techniques before priming. Primer is not a cure all for poor bodywork. If your unable to get the bodywork straight with the body filler what are your chances of getting the panel straight with the addition of primer ? An old body guy I worked with over 40 plus years ago said and its still true today " if it takes more than 3 coats of primer, your metal work ain't right. Do it over. "
Some of the more difficult tasks to master in filler application is assessing how large of an area requires filling , applying the filler smoothly and not digging out the applied filler ( undercutting ).
One of the more helpful things you can do is use no power tools until you can get a dent filled correctly. Doing it by hand gets one to pay more attention to what they are doing . Learn what a proper featheredge is in paint . You should have this same featheredge with the body filler to the metal. Any sharp or distinct filler edge will result in a visible flaw in your paintwork. You need to read the panel after the application of filler. This will tell you where to put a little more and sand little less. Always apply your filler with the curve of the panel. You should avoid applying against the curve at all possible times.
My best suggestion ,for applying filler to a panel with a plastic spreader ,is to adhere a piece of 3/4 masking tape to the top of the filler spreader. Use the widest spreader the does not interfere with the apllication. Now keep all your fingers on the tape when spreading your material. This little trick keeps one from placing too much pressure on the filler and forcing it out of the dent and also gets a more smooth and uniform fill which should require less effort to sand straight.
I hope these are helpful.
As far as your fill primer goes you get what you pay for. Stick with a good quality 2 part primer from DuPont , PPG or other company . Just be sure to keep your materials confined to one company since these products are designed to work as a system including top and seal caotings. I dont believe in hi build primers like "Featherfill" . They are just a crutch used as an excuse not to finish work correctly. Using old laquer based materials is just a waste of time and money.
I have to try that trick with the masking tape on the top of the spreader. I always run into problems pushing out the filler, and it drives me nuts. I have a tendency to do 'one more pass' with the spreader to make it all perfect, which ends up just killing the job. Thanks for that tip!
LOL Thank God! That made me laugh. Hard. And out loud.
thats the stuff .... ! spray it thick fill er up and let sit for 24 -48 hrs then sand down... all the shrinkage should be gone by then
V8nova can YOU answer any of these questions? You have asked 4 times 'how much' because you can not find any prices on the 'net. Where are you looking? And your location, any local outlets?
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