Technical hidden bolts in concrete floor; how to do it???

Pretty sure

 

Where do these come from?

 

I have one just like you pictured. I will have to say that it took a LOT of modification to make it work correctly. It now serves my purposes just fine.

As to the solution to your problem : Put it in a corner, but make sure you have it far enough from the wall to clear your largest tires. Once in a while, I have to reposition the tire on the machine to finish what I'm doing, but I usually don't have to.

 

Unfortunately I don't have the room to do that. Thus, my dilemma. My shop is so crowded that I don't have room to do much work. If I had room to "put it in a corner" I could just leave it where it is. I'm desperately trying to clear some space and one of the solutions is to get this thing off of the pallet it's on now and have it available when/if needed. In storage this thing won't take up any valuable floor space. I can store it on a shelf without losing that floor space I speak of.

 

I prefer the glue in style of anchors. We use them in rock climbing and I have retrofitted them to an existing floor. There is no risk of blowing out the hole like with a mechanical fastner. Fastenal and other industrial places should have them.

 

Any decent hardware store will have them in the mini hardware drawers.

 

1 did not read all the responses but use a commercial insert like the pictured hilti it expands when you thread into it, you drill the hole with a concrete bit and and make it a little snug and push the insert in the hole with the bolt attached and get it tight before you take it out to attach the stand..when you take it out just put a carriage bolt in the hole when you are not using it. the insert is used for attaching hangers for anything in concrete construction.this might help???

 

No

 

I used Redheads when I mounted my winch in the floor to pull in non runners, I just use the shop vac over them when I want to bolt the winch in.

 

What flatford said^^^. I have a bunch of those set in my floor. When I need to use 'em I just blow all the crap out of 'em with compressed air and thread a bolt in.

 

High-strength bolts of 6 mm with small dimensions can provide a detachable connection that is not inferior in strength to welded and superior to rivet. Intensively operated machinery or massive construction metal structures require high-strength fasteners. Look, here should be quality bolts for Rennshifter scrooz.com.au. The desire to reduce costs and use low-strength parts in critical attachment points can lead to the rapid destruction of structures or failure of mechanisms.

 

They just don’t like you

 

https://nicholasfluhart.com/2009/12/13/manual-tire-changer/

 

My Coop is only a block away. They change all my stuff. Lippy

 

That thing takes up a bunch of territory. I have had mine outside at the farm for over 20 years, still works even with some patina. The guy that owns the tire store hunts at my place, that comes with benefits sometimes.

 

They're called "flush shells" if they sit even with or below the surface and have female threads. Need to mark your concrete drill bit when drilling the holes so they don't end up too deep when they're seated. I use the kind that have a center wedge, so once dropped in you seat the wedge with a punch and hammer and they stay tight. If you buy the kind that tighten as you thread a bolt in they'll usually get loose and may pull out.
I also use a bolt with the head cut off, and a slot cut in the shank for a screwdriver. Allens work, but need the socket cleaned out to be able to get a wrench in them.

 

I WORK FOR HILTI. DROP-IN ANCORS ARE THE BEST WAY TO GO.

 

6 mm/ 1/4" bolts are pretty strong. Even the poorly designed 1/4-20 is capable of 1000s of pounds tension if grade 5.

Actual bolt loading is usually way more complex than simple tension. Baseplates less than 1/2" thick can bend and create leverage and prying action that makes the actual tension on a bolt quite a bit higher than a simple sketch of the forces indicates.

But 3/8"-16 are at least twice as stout for barely any more effort.

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/us-bolts-tensile-proof-load-d_2066.html

 

I mounted mine outside too. Poured a little slab of concrete using a plastic tub for a form (after cutting the bottom out of it). Works great and doesn't take up any shop/garage space. It has not only saved me a ton of money over the years doing my own tires, it has earned me a good bit too (spinning rubber off discarded aluminum wheels I get for free which are then turned in for scrap). As others have mentioned regarding theirs, mine also required some modification before it worked well.