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Hey, Hey! 1st of the Month **AUGUST Banger Meet**

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jimmy B, Aug 1, 2008.

  1. Seeing how it is the 1st I thought I would start the August banger meet.

    I have been working on the '25 Chev. I have built a header for the 3-port and I am now fabbing a intake. I was wondering where to best position the carbs....
    Like this?

    or this?
  2. Jimmy B, I like the second shot it makes it look balanced and gives more direct flow into the ports.
    Progress for me this month has been surfing the net to try and get to know as many banger people as I can - THERE ARE STILL PLENTY MORE OF YOU TO GET TO KNOW.
    That is one of the reasons that I did the post for Banger Powered Cars Post Your Pics.
    I wish I was going to Bonneville Speed Week to see Quick n Easy, Old Crow and the Bean Bandits run!
    Banger interest has certianly rocketed around the world hasnt it? I am trying to find out more info about Roy Creels banger exploits and also awaiting to hear from Steve Serr how his blown banger went on the dyno.
    As far away as I am in New Zealand I would like to get to know as many banger guys as I can.
    And as me and my fathers blown A motor powered front engine dragster progresses I will keep all informed.
    Meanwhile I have spent the last month moving into a commercial warehouse with a 2 bedroom apartment on top. The best news is that I am moving my Model A pick up home this weekend!
    I have missed that car!
  3. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Member Emeritus

    From here:

    The HAL is cracked in two chambers....... old repairs now leaking. It is at the head shop. We have some good guys here I'm not worried

    The 5-main saddles were bored (before me) for the HAL Crank 2.500 mains The block was never designed for a crank that big and I now must decide if we weld up the block or make bearing spacers. Either way new caps will be made and we'll cut the mains down. Question is 2.250 or 2.00? Have to do a little looking at the whole mess.Maybe time to look at the other block too. Yes there is one more

    Other than that there is little drama from this project. But I haven't offered up the front drive yet.

    More to follow :)
  4. Ice man
    Joined: Mar 12, 2008
    Posts: 968

    Ice man

    I don't know if many Banger guys are awaire of the name, Terry Burtz. He does a lot of Banger stuff (rear main seals) but he is under taking a project to build an exact A block, externally in every way so all your stuff will bolt right on. Inside, well thats a different story, 5 mains, full pressure, new rods, new C/balanced crank done the right way, capable of 150 hp and strong enought to do it. Check out his sight at He sends a monthly update on the progress, and its really hiteck stuff hes doing. Hes shooting on a price tag of $3,000.00. and you use your externals. Sounds to good to be true for us banger guys. Ice man
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  5. I've been getting the regular emails from Terry Burtz - following the trials and tribulations, particularly the foundry charlatans!

    Looks a hell of a project - I'm saving the $3K for MY one!
  6. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,410

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Too busy here to do any car work...might try to sneak in a couple hours this weekend - we'll see.
  7. Corn coupe
    Joined: Jan 7, 2008
    Posts: 356

    Corn coupe
    from CZ

    Think I might too
  8. Hey Crazydaddyo! lets have a discussion about broken cranks. I have broken 2 "A" cranks, they both broke at the rear of #4 rod throw. Jay Steele said most he has seen or heard about cranks breaking at that point. I have heard in the past that either "B" or "C" cranks have a tendency to break at the flange. Not enough radius or something. Can't remember which. In regards to my "A" cranks the first had a chopped "A" flywheel the second, which lasted much longer had a 12.5 Al flywheel. Now I use a dampener on my engines. Don't have much time on the stroker. I assume your crank still had the "B" size mains.
  9. This month has been a lot of work to achieve very little.

    The challenge now is to get a 14 sec ticket at the drags. :rolleyes:

    First was fitting a new mag. Exactly the same as the one fitted, just with more advance.
    Dropped it in, went to fire the motor, had the timing slightly too far advanced which caused the starter to snatch and promptly done this...


    Of course where did all the broken bits go? Straight to bottom of the bellhousing. :(
    No amount of magnets on sticks would get the pieces out so there was no option left but to pull the rear axle, gearbox, clutch and flywheel.:mad:
    With all that done and put back together. Fired it up... Bang, crunch, bang.

    Take the starter out again and this time I find this...


    I'd bent the armature of the starter into a banana. :eek:

    Drove many miles to the kind folk of Belchers who were going to machine a new armature but in the end, amazingly, managed the straighten the bent one.

    Put the starter back in, got two starts from it and bent it again!!

    Now, I've got a V8 flywheel with a reversed bendix. The Correct way to do this is to put a third support in the bellhousing for the starter. Well... I thought I knew better and didn't bother.:rolleyes:

    As you've just read read it came back to bite me!

    Again the back axle and gearbox came out to get to the bellhousing and back again to Belchers to have it done properly...



    And the magneto?

    It never ran right so at 10:30 at night in the pitch black the night before going to a major show I abandoned it and put the old faithful one back in.

    Now the clutch release bearing has decided its had enough. So it looks like I'll be taking the back axle and gearbox out. :D
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2008
  10. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,078


    phew....alot of work clark!
    my starter had a bent shaft, i straightened it....bent again
    i put a new armature in and it hasnt been a problem

    nice guide you have in there now
  11. Let me know when you're in the area again, I'll put the kettle on!
  12. Corn coupe
    Joined: Jan 7, 2008
    Posts: 356

    Corn coupe
    from CZ

  13. Corn coupe
    Joined: Jan 7, 2008
    Posts: 356

    Corn coupe
    from CZ

    Boy you got the patience of a saint, good luck!

    I bet you'll still be Hayride ready?
  14. Bobby Green
    Joined: Jun 9, 2001
    Posts: 1,319

    Bobby Green

    I guess I'll post the picture again here of the new reverse cam flatty. I like to support the Monthly banger posts.
  15. The Wrong-Un
    Joined: Oct 8, 2004
    Posts: 402

    The Wrong-Un

    Bobby, I was about to post on your thread but here seems just as good a place to say WOW!

    Quiet month for me apart from a small incident where the ring gear went for a wander forward and the starter would no longer engage. Back in place now and all seems well again.

    Off to the Hayride in a week, might be in the A, depends if I get the girlfriends Chevy done in time. Still, the A isn't a bad substitute.
  16. 5wbomber
    Joined: Nov 30, 2005
    Posts: 1,451


    holy crap bobby, that looks so bitchin, ill be at the salf, if you need help call me! -J
  17. Jonny69
    Joined: Jul 24, 2007
    Posts: 275

    from England

    My exhaust sheared the iron manifold on the way up to the NSRA Supernationals. Made the sort of noise on the motorway that sounded like the fan eating the radiator but it was the exhaust luckily. So did about 150 miles on an open header, full bore at 60mph.

    This week I've got to get the tubular manifold fitted and working ready for the Hayride next weekend. Hopefully get a silencer tomorrow morning because I don't want to cut up what I've already got.
  18. I ran my first converted starter for at least a year with out a problem, Then I had an ignition problem caused by using an oil filled coil in the horizontal position. The engine started to backfire and bent the armature. I straightened it and by the time I located the ignition problem it had bent again so I installed an outer bearing. Each problem I have encountered with the starter conversion has been traced to the ignition causing kick back.
  19. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 1,998

    from Brum...

    Hey all,
    Already a great month of Bangers. Lovin' the Burtz engine.

    Hells bells, Clark....tell you what, there's a lot to be said for open-drive conversions!

    Awesome, Bobby. Just awesome.

    Me? Not much this month, been doing some decorating at home and had a couple of essays to write, so time hasn't been good.
    Got my tudor MOT'd for the first time since it landed in the UK, and the registration came through in the post yesterday, so it's almost ready for the road. Just correcting a little issue with the steering and waiting for the licence plates to arrive, and then I'll be getting some miles in.
  20. Corn coupe
    Joined: Jan 7, 2008
    Posts: 356

    Corn coupe
    from CZ

    Might see you pounding the asphalt of Brum? May you have many a happy mile.
  21. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Member Emeritus

    I gotta chain starter :)

    Attached Files:

  22. Its seems that once they have been damaged once the metal has weakened and the same problem keeps happening.

    As fantastic as this is, I can't help thinking thats its a cast iron Donovan engine.

    We're all seen the grainy b&w pictures and heard the rumours of such engines but to hear and see one working is fantastic.

    Top trumps again, Bluto. :p
  23. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 1,998

    from Brum...

    Cheers, mate :) Really looking forward to getting about in it.
  24. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 26,406


    Maybe the Frazer-Nash people will be impressed at the hillclimbs. :rolleyes:
  25. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Member Emeritus

    I've too many things going on this month. But I will pull the B outta the Miller and take ton-0-photos of the starter for you all. I didn't do it. It works very well. Spins the HAL and doesn't sound like a TRD new kindda thingie........

    Meantime gotta figure out a gear-rotor set to put into the front pump
    Cortina or Austin 1300 might work. I'm still in the 'thinking stage' on so many things here
  26. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,144


    Both of the cranks I've run are B's. 3/16" offset ground rod journals and turned down to A size. The mains were A size too because I'm running an A block. The first crank I broke had lessthen 200 miles on it. It broke at the #4 rod journal and the rear throw. The break was catistrophic. It didn't crack and gradualy get bigger. I have some metalergy training and work in the metal stanping industy, and in my opinion the fillet radius (.030") that was ground into all of the bearing journals was the cause of the break. Both cranks had welded counter weights the first one I was running a cut down (45lbs) stock flywheel and a small Riley pulley.

    The second crank lasted @1500 miles and the bearing journals were @ .080" ( I asked for .125" fillet but was told that it wouldn't clean up with that big of a rad.) and I switched to a 19 lb Aluminim flywheel. I also switched to H beam rods and I know that the rods and the pistons were all within .3 grams of each other. At this point I do not know the extent of the failure on this one as I haven't torn the engine down yet. I have pulled the flywheel off and I know the rear main cap is broken in several pieces.

    I have been told by many people that crank failure is common with model A and B. I've even been told that high comp. heads and starter motors have caused crank failures. Starter related failures stem from high compresion and engine kick back causing bent starter shafts and cracked rear flanges.

    I was reacently told of an article about this called "THE GREAT FUNK "E" CRANKSHAFT MYSTERY by Phillip A. Meyer" which tells about the failure of Model A and B cranks in 1930's aircraft. I haven't found the article yet, but when I do and if there is any relivent info in it, I will post it. I hoping that it will show how to resolve this issue.

    What are the details of you crank failure?
    What is the stroke on your "stroker"?
    Is that the engine that is in your modified?

  27. brjnelson
    Joined: Oct 13, 2002
    Posts: 437


    Howdy Guys
    I got my cracked head welded up, but put my "new" speed head on.
    You may remember last months post, the rear cylinders were getting more fuel that the front. I am running a EQ dual manifold with 1 81 the other carb is a dummy. I took a burr and removed the vane under the running carb. I may put the iron Winfield head back on for next months speed meet, the engine does not seem to pull as hard, it may just be in my head.:confused:

    I used one of the new modern head gaskets this time, so far I like it, the silicone beads around the coolant ports are very tacky, will see.

    Next month I will be working on a new intake that will be so cool, you will drop your panties :rolleyes:
  28. Cris
    Joined: Jan 3, 2005
    Posts: 805

    from Vermont

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