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Technical HEMI TECH - Spark plug tube seals

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 30dodgeboy, Oct 15, 2014.

?
  1. none

  2. billet Hot Heads type

  3. TR Waters

  4. CR lip seals

  5. other - please explain

Results are only viewable after voting.
  1. What are you guys running for spark plug tube seals?

    I'm not talking about the stock rubber rings at the valve covers - I'm talking about additional seals added at the cylinder heads to prevent oil from running down onto the plugs and into the chambers when the plugs get pulled.

    I see TR Waters makes some nice laser cut plates that screw down and squeeze a set of stock valve cover plug tube seals against the top of the cylinder head.

    There's the more common billet Milodon style seals that HotHeads and others sell that stick up and carry an O-ring.

    I saw a JR Fueler with small CR lip seals, which looked very nice and compact.

    If adding seals, what do you guys do to bore the cylinder heads' spark plug tube holes on center?

    What other methods of sealing are there?
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2014
  2. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,204

    73RR
    Member

    You might giver proper credit to Milodon.....

    .
     
  3. Yeah, I figured someone else invented them. Its just that HH seems to be a popular source for them. Can't figure out how to edit the poll options to change HH to Milodon to give the proper credit due...
     
  4. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,726

    George
    Member

    short run time on the poll...
     

  5. jimcolwell
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 474

    jimcolwell
    Member
    from Amarillo

    Why doesn't the oil run back into the crank case? We never used any on a 354 in the early 70's AA/FA. We pulled the covers and plugs after every pass.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  6. Most of it does run back to the pan. The small amount that fits between the plug tubes and the pocket they fit into of the cylinder head is what gets onto the plugs and into the chambers when the plugs are pulled. Not really much of an issue if you are installing new plugs every time...
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2014
  7. HomemadeHardtop57
    Joined: Nov 15, 2007
    Posts: 4,328

    HomemadeHardtop57
    Member

    Are there any type of seals that do not require machining of the head to be inserted? I run into this problem all the time. I'm currently playing around with carb jet sizes and it's tough pulling the plugs to see how they are burning without them getting oil on them. I've seen some sets online but all require machine work on the heads and I don't feel like pulling the top end apart.


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  8. The billet or CR seals require machining. The holes in the heads for the spark plug tubes are as-cast at the top, so they are not necessarily concentric with the spark plug threads.

    Those TR Waters seals probably are your best option for installing seals without removing the heads from the engine. They do require drilling and tapping for small machine screws though...
     
  9. 402BOSSMAN
    Joined: Jul 26, 2015
    Posts: 428

    402BOSSMAN
    Member

    Old thread but I typically use the Hot Heads seals. It requires you to machine the head using a mill to make them fit. I usually put in a plug and use a edge finder to find the center of the plug (holes not always concentric), and either use a boring head or a 1.5" endmill (at slow speed) to plunge cut on the correct position. If you loose an actual press fit than you can use gray permatex to keep them in place since it is a silicone that hardens. I have a head fixture that I mount it to and go to the next hole using my DRO and the Hemi bore spacing of 4.562 to machine. It keeps the head positioned perfectly in line to be able to do it that way.
    [​IMG]
     
    30dodgeboy and Dog_Patch like this.
  10. steve elliott
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 2

    steve elliott

    i just purchased the milodon tube to head seals. the end that goes pressed into the head measures 1.5" and the hole that it goes pressed into measures 1.35" my question is; do i have enough wall thickness in the head to open the hole to just under 1.5"(to allow interference-fit) ?
     

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