The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scootermcrad, Jul 5, 2006.
Looks like an aluminum stocker
Yup. Originally came out for the 276 DeSoto Hemi's...that only came from the Factory with a 2bl...
Did anyone ever make a CAST 4x2 in a STAGGERED (2 2bbls per side) for ealy Hemis? Chryslers?? I've seen a couple U-fab type, but what about CAST?? I seen 4x1 staggered also.
I wish Offenhauser would re-cast some of their old Chrysler manifolds like they did with the Red Ram and DeSotos.
I wanted Hilborn or multi 94's or 97's but that stuff was over my buget. My engine is a never-apart '55 331. I built my own sheetmetal intake and used (4) 1949-50 Rochester AA's (2 bbls). It works great and looks crazy. I had to enlarge jets to 5/64" as anything less was too lean.
thanks scooter i knew someone had some info
Here is a 4x2 side by side. I had it custom built..I'm still playing with it..
Man I like that look. Wild! It really adds to the vintage appeal of the car.
Up on EBay there's a rare Cunningham cast iron marine 4X1 331 intake. Looks like an NOS one I saw @ the Moultrie, Ga swap meet some yrs ago, price is exorbanant!
Another question for the experts.
I just bought a '57 354 Power Giant truck engine. It has the 4 bolt exhaust manifolds (which apparently are good) but it has a 2 bbl intake and an odd water pump housing that sits really tall.
I've read that these engines use early style heads, and I want a 4 barrel intake. What intake should I be looking for, and what water pump housing do I want? I'm very confused on what a "wet" and "dry" intake is and what the issues are about thermostat housings that everyone seems to be talking about. It's probably simple/obvious but I'm totally missing it.
Second question, assuming I get some form of OEM 4 barrel intake for this engine, does anyone have suggestions on what carb to run (prefer not to have to use an adapter, hood clearance could be an issue) keeping in mind that I'm hoping to run the stock camshaft that's already in it (this is a clean, low mile motor that I want to run without rebuilding if it all checks out good.)
I started with a cast iron 4bbl intake on my 392 in '98, went to a Weiand 2 4bbl and now to an 8 2bbl U-fab type.
I lost the boat anchor of a manifold almost in the first month I had the '51 Ford. The 2-4 setup with 500 cfm AFB carbs always ran pretty nice, and I used it for initial break-in on my rebuilt 392.
I went with the 8-2 u-fab with Retrotek injectors for the kool factor.
as an aside, I built the stand and megaphone headers for breaking the motor in, before reinstalling it in my '51. Those headers looked cool but were a very BAD idea! You could not run the motor and think at the same time, with the noise level they produced. A muffler quieted motor would have been much nicer to have during break-in when trying to solve a bunch of small and not so small problems that came up while the motor was still on the stand. We would not have rushed to install the motor before all the efi and tuning bugs were sorted out.
I still love the look of this setup:
I like it even with the hood shut:
It took 38 months of fiddling, scratching my head, making a lot of changes, and spending too many $s until I was finally satisfied with the running of the new motor (july 2010). Now that I am happy with it, I am starting to look for another U-Fab manifold and planning a rebuild of my older 392 as I plan out my '29 coupe build a few years down the road. I am comfortable driving the car any day, except when it is raining, and it even gets driven then.
A couple issues with the U-fab manifolds. Mine was bought through a hemi parts supplier/mfg rather directly from the builder. Welds were beautiful, but the mount flanges were not close to being flat enough to be bolted to the heads. The carb mounts were not on straight, leaving the throttle shafts out of parallel. I had it shipped directly to the socal engine builder. The engine builder looked at it and refused to touch it again. He sent it over to Retrotek and they set up the manifold plumbing as best they could. I had to take it apart again and found a machine shop up here in norcal to cut the mounting surfaces flat. Getting a good manifold, flat and fully jig built/machined is important! I want to buy my next U-fab directly from the manufacturer; but only after talking to them, and I am sure they are likely to be producing a good product.
I've posted this before in other threads, but since this popped up, I'll throw it in here since I don't see another one yet. It's a 392 Cragar 4-71 setup on my mock-up block. Intake is the matching Cragar unit as well and going with the 4-bolt truck exhaust manifolds.
Thinking about running it on propane, but the cost of road taxed propane is notably higher than gasoline now and is a bit of a pain to get. Have to get it from official road taxed stations, typically the actual propane distributors. Not usually open on nights and weekends. So, might just stick with standard gas since I am hoping to put some nice backroads miles on this truck when done and don't want to be worried about locating unknown refilling locations. The price issue isn't as bothersome as the getting it hassle.
You're truck engine has the 51-4 car timing cover. It has the '54 style heads(solid fronts & oval ex ports) A wet intake has the thermostat housing & water in it. Dry intakes have no water in them.The '54 car intake is the only OEM wet 4 bl intake, Edmunds made some 4 & 2X4 wet intakes but big $!. A dry intake can be drilled for use with a remote thermostat, or the front of the heads can be moded. A WCFB is the stock 4 bl carb. An edelbrock will bolt on, but port matching is need & a question on linkage clearance, or use a squeeze/adaptor plate.
I finally have something of my own to share!
Offy 6x2 Progress and the drive shaft tube headers I built...
Still have to finish the linkage and finish setting up the carbs with the fuel lines and regulator.
Headers are basically done. Just a little more smoothing to do and I have to add the cut out tubes.
One additional note on the heads...the truck piece has a water cooled intake as opposed to the pass car exhaust heated intake. The port is very tall and slender and you will either need to 'shrink' the size of the port or modify whatever manifold you use to cover the opening. I suggest modifying the port so you can use pass car gaskets. You will still have water running through the intake so fast warm-up will not happen unless you keep a block heater plugged in.
If you want to use a 55 or later (dry) intake then shop the circle track magazines for a remote t-stat.
The set of truck heads I have have the square port.
..would love to see some pics...all I have ever found are the tall/water jobs...
Ok guys, this is reviving a bit of an old post on this thread, but does anyone have any more info on the Edmunds dual quad for the early 51-53 heads posted awhile back? Basically the same questions the OP had, how rare/hard to find are they? I've got a few early heads, so that "wet" dual quad could be useful.
There was 1 on EBay recently, don't think it sold with a 899 reserve. Haven't checked to see if relisted. There's a vintage intake dealer who goes to the Moultrie, Ga swap meet & he has had a 2X2 in inventory @ around 800 for a while. Never seen production #s on either.
Now that you mention it I think I may remember seeing that one on ebay. I'm keeping an eye out to see if it pops up again. Not sure I'd pay $800 for one though. Seems like they may be kinda hard to find...
I've got one of those for the early Desoto sitting on the shelf...
I have seen alot more of the 2x4 for the 54 heads than the small port heads, and just the opposite for the 2x2 manifold.
I would think that the small port 2x4 is fairly rare.
If you have a little cash to throw around, why don't you go with a set of Hilborns and convert them to TPI? They still make and you could run a Megsquirt sytem rather inexpensively. They would look bitchin. Bill
NOTE: This is not my intake, and I have no idea who's it is. I'm only posting this because it was recently discussed.
Here is one of those Edmunds listed on Ebay at the moment. The seller says it has been fiddled with a bit, but that may not be a problem:
Interesting! I actually DO know that seller, I've purchased some things from him in the past but didn't know he had one of those. Right off I notice a couple of differences though, the engraving is "Edmund" vs "Edmunds", and its on the diagonal vs straight like the other one pictured here. Maybe a later model/version?
For a Chrysler....Not Desoto
Just bumping this with a link to some discussion of a 4x2 Horne and blocking off heat riser port. Added blurb on Cragar 8x2 manifolds systems as well.
I just went to the Lake headers website "intakes no loger available as of 4-1-11!"
Exhaust manifold question!
I keep seeing the Edelbrock and Nicson aluminum log manifolds for sale on that auction site. So, I was wondering, can these be used for automotive (not marine) applications?
I know that in their marine application they're plumbed to circulate water continuously through the manifold. Can they be used without being plumbed for water, or will the manifolds overheat?
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