HEMI Tech: Harmonic Balancers and related

Yep... looks like another fab job in my future... thanks.

 

I bought a modified 340 Harmonic Balancer from Hot Heads for our Dodge 315 as well as their keys set (but didn't use the cam keys as the motor was already done there). I guess the key was already stepped, though I don't remember it being stepped, and it went on real nicely with the install tool. They are the same thickness as a stock balancer, so your pulleys will line up correctly. They only thing I had to modify was to take a round file and elongate one hole in the stock pulleys, as they have one hole offset, and the HH modified balancer pulley mounting holes are equal distance.

 

Just an FYI at this point.
NEW small block balancers are available from PowerBond (O'riellys and others) and from Falcon Global, about $70 either way.
If you have access to a mill, the stock key is easy to cut, just take a 0.060 x 0.060 notch out of one corner and go. Yes, the bolt pattern still requires correction, no big deal.

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Okay so I've learned that a standard 318-340 balancer has the same bore but a different keyway size. so why is there such a wide range in prices? is a $400 BALANCER REALLY THAT MUCH BETTER ON A STREET ENGINE? What about the stock balancer how do you know it it's bad or not right for the application?

I'm getting ready to to the cam break in on my engine, so I'll have a few questions for sure

 

I know the 241s didn't have dampers(270s?), but I was thinking the high decks did. On another Forum 2 people have said their 325s don't. Any thoughts?

 

I bought a HHH balancer for my 241, it worked great..My understanding is the 241 didn't have the damper and the crank would get cracks in it, but the engine would still get 100k or more. Strong crank.. I had my welded and balanced..
Duane.

 

Scooter, This is from a while ago, but I finally got around to degreeing my 340 balancer. If you recall from previous posts I had set "270" to be my ZERO mark and for a couple years we literally used 3M masking tape lined up accordingly- it made for a good laugh at the racetrack, but in the end practicality ruled.

It's not always easy being a cheap bastage, but rarely a dull moment! ;-)

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=517849&highlight=balancer

 

Is the $400 unit a fluid job?

Stock, used pieces are acceptable as long as they are in good condition; pliable rubber cushion, outer ring not damaged.....
There are some variations with all of the different years production so individual pieces can vary in appearance but still have all of the functional attributes.
Be sure to read through the previous posts for more info.

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so... will a PowerBond 1108N (meant for a Chrysler 360) work for a 50's 331 Hemi? (seen on eBay for $78)

Understand that the keyway needs to be opened up or use a stepped key, but will the crank end diameter be correct and the distance the pulleys are from the block end up being the same?

 

The 360 is balanced differently than the 318/340 that is used.

 

Some of the current pieces have bolt-on/removeable weights. Be sure to verify that 'no weight = neutral balance'. PM TRWaters for a stepped key.

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what is meant by "current pieces"..... are you referring to the 318/340 HBs ?

verify to whom ?

 

This is a 360 type balancer, externally balanced engine. (pic posted by Gary last year) Some aftermarket balancers are neutral balanced, but a weight like below can be added for an externally balanced application.

 

Thanks for reposting the pic Tom.


Current pieces: Those 318-340-360 parts currently being sold on ebay and at your local parts house.

Verify: Insure that if you buy a balancer that has a removeable weight that the balance is neutral without the weight or screws...

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on the stepped keyway....i noticed while looking on ebay someone is selling them if you dont have access to a machinest. this is what im doing if its the right size. can anyone confirm the size fit?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATI-918992-...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

 

...what's wrong with the one Tom sells???

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Actually, the difference between the key I sell and the ATI is that mine fits. Oh...and it is half the price.

 

Heres a pic of my HHH balancer with HHH timing cover. Didnt u sell me a 4v Hemi intake?

 

I cant remember the last time I sold a stock 55-58 Chrysler single 4 intake.

 

Is the cast crank only dampner what I need for my 354? I`m new to this mopar stuff.What does LA and RB mean when you talk about these things or what years dampners work?

 

No, cast crank balancers are external balance. You need a internal balance damper for a forged crank. Reread the post and believe. I see no wrong info here.

 

There are 318s from 2 different familys of egnines. There the 318 "A" family(there are other size "A" Polys) of polyshere head engines and the 318 LA family. 273/318/340/360. RB means Raised Block(deck height), term is usually used when talking about Big Blocks. When talking Hemis and Hemi based Polys(differnt than "A" Polys) it's called "high deck"

 

i bought toms!

 

Old thread, new question. Is there a reasonable way ( price ) to come up with one for a blower set-up ? The ones I've seen are kind of crazy price wise , over $500.00 which I have to believe there has to be a more economic way to go.

 

I don't run them with a blower, just a crank hub.

The belt acts as a harmonic damper.

Like this:


Along with this:

 

Thanks, I'll look into the parts. It's for a friends engine, but mines not far behind.

 

I have a blown 354 coming together right now. Chasing down a camshaft.

 

Looks to be just under $200.00 for both pieces and I like that the hub has a double key-way as it should be.

 

Can anyone confirm what size woodruff key you need for the crank shaft timing gear? I believe it is 3/16" thick and am measuring the length of the slot is roughly 11/16" so I don't know weather to get a 5/8 (#61) or 3/4" (#9) long key. It measure .22 deep

Based on the height, I think the #9 is the one to get -
this is a 392 crank
https://www.mcmaster.com/#woodruff-keys/=1bb7876