Register now to get rid of these ads!

HEMI Tech - Cooling Systems

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scootermcrad, Jan 6, 2012.

  1. sdimpala64
    Joined: Mar 5, 2009
    Posts: 51

    sdimpala64
    Member
    from SD CA

    I'm going to be using the stock water pump. Was just wondering if anybody on the board had bought a "new" water pump from ebay. They were not available new until recently.
     
  2. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,625

    73RR
    Member

    I had not heard of the 'new' pumps until your post. Thanks! The price looks to be decent.
    The new pieces will definately affect my rebuilding business but that is OK. The supply of 51-54 pumps has been nearly zero for many years with many folks swapping to 'something else' because of the rebuild costs or that they simply did not have a core. It is good to have new stuff.

    .
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  3. petew
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 221

    petew
    Member
    from Mebane, NC

    54264C63-503D-4139-B74C-A4B81BFC8190.jpeg I have a 354 in my 30 Ford and had some cooling issues . Did some measuring of my pulleys and found that my waterpump was running at 80% of my crank speed.
    Got on eBay and purchased a 440 Mopar 2 grove water pump pulley and a 340 crank pulley that is larger then the water pump pulley. The waterpump pulley required opening up the pilot hole and the crank pulley required drilling one hole so it would match the 354 pattern.
    The result is an overdriven waterpump and no more cooling issues. Another byproduct is that the fan turns faster at idle which helps as well.
    Original waterpump castings show up on the bay from time to time. I bought one , had it rebuilt and have it on the shelf for when my current one goes.
    Original pulleys are on the left , replacements on the right.
     
    INVISIBLEKID and HemiDeuce like this.
  4. 392
    Joined: Feb 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,206

    392
    Member

    Nice info petew. Is the distance from mount surface to outside the same as original. If so I might look into changing mine.
     
  5. petew
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 221

    petew
    Member
    from Mebane, NC

    Yes distance is the same and the pulleys lined up just fine.
     
  6. 392
    Joined: Feb 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,206

    392
    Member

    petew could you give me the diameters. I've found some I could get but need the diameter. and Im guessing a 318 would be in the same category as 340 thanks
     
  7. jack_pine
    Joined: Jan 20, 2007
    Posts: 352

    jack_pine
    Member
    from Motor City

    Hey, folks....doing another Dodge and 2 ideas I can't stop thinking about:

    If you want to run a Chevy water pump, there are few (none, afaik) options for a traditional-looking water crossover. If you want to debate the merits of running a Chevy pump, keep scrolling. I'm not your guy.

    1. It occurred to me that the Dodge water crossover could be separated from the water pump housing and with not a ton of work could be a standalone crossover, with bypass hose going to water pump, if needed.

    That's the first pic below. My idea is to cut it off where it joins the water pump housing and see what is there. Goal is to turn it into a Chrysler-style crossover, separated from the large casting. Anyone try this before?

    2. Adapting a Buick water crossover to the Dodge. I realize there is an issue regarding the span of the two not being equal. The Buick's bolt pattern is about 45 degrees off from the Dodge; an aluminum adapter could bolt to the Dodge head and accept the Buick fasteners without having to get too thick.

    In sure I would have to slice off the middle where the thermostat housing is to adjust for width.

    Has anyone given this a look? 20210221_195011.jpeg

    Sent from my SM-G986U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    loudbang likes this.
  8. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,625

    73RR
    Member

  9. jack_pine
    Joined: Jan 20, 2007
    Posts: 352

    jack_pine
    Member
    from Motor City

  10. jack_pine
    Joined: Jan 20, 2007
    Posts: 352

    jack_pine
    Member
    from Motor City

    Hi, folks. 1954 331 4 bbl on my run stand. While I tap the holes on the crank flange I thought I would ask what y'all are using for lower radiator hose hookup.

    As you can see, the cover has provision for a thermostat housing-looking thing; however, it looks a bit small to me.

    The trans cooler was long gone by the time I got it.

    Any ideas? .pending-1617726465-20210330_094537~2.jpeg

    Sent from my SM-G986U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  11. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,460

    George
    Member

    thermostat houses goes there for cars with a stick.
     
  12. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,625

    73RR
    Member

    ...are you sure about that George...?
    The inlet side of the pump would be where the oem trans cooler mounts and connects to the rad.

    Jon, I have had some flanges laser cut to match the hole and bolts and and welded on a 1¼" pipe elbow and a short piece of tube for the lower hose.
     
    30dodgeboy and Hnstray like this.
  13. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,460

    George
    Member

    An assumption. I've seen a few cars done that way. Looked like a normal thermostat housing.
     
  14. something to consider. when my 354 was running hot i did all the usual things to the cooling system with some results. it was when i put a oil cooler on the car that i noticed the biggest drop in temperature. it was good for 30 degrees of water temp. it worked so well going down the road i added a fan for stop and go traffic.
     
  15. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,625

    73RR
    Member

    Yup, oil, either engine or trans, gets hot. 'Good' trans oil temp is up to 250 or so and engine oil can be well above that so a separate cooler is a good idea.
    Some of the heating problems that I have had calls on were solved after looking at the water pump speed.
    Some of the shiverlay conversions were simply spinning the pump too fast. Cavitation is also a huge problem at high rpm.
     
    racer-x and Hnstray like this.
  16. SEAAIRE354
    Joined: Sep 7, 2015
    Posts: 333

    SEAAIRE354
    Member

    What should the pulley diameters or ratio be ? I’m building one now and unfortunately went the Chevy pump route as it saves me 3/4” and I need all the room I can get. And I’m trying to use OEM pulleys instead of the billet conversation stuff.
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  17. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,625

    73RR
    Member

    Since you are using shiverlay parts then you should use the same, or similar, size/ratio as found on the doner. Reference to Mopar crank pulleys are either early or late and that only means there is a one-bolt offset in the bolt circle; a round file does the job going either direction. Multi-groove sheaves can often be trimmed to single/double groove.
    The speed of water flow through the radiator is also controlled by the t-stat opening size. Restrictors can be installed to slow the flow if needed. The EarlyHemi does not make more heat than any other engine so you should only need to be concerned about the 'new' radiator having somewhat similar cooling capacity to the wp donor vehicle. Other considerations are things like fan shrouds and air flow restrictions into the radiator.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2021
    SEAAIRE354 and Hnstray like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.