HEMI Tech- Blowers, Superchargers, fuel injection

That's what I did with the modified stock plate on my coupe, not for space but because I couldn't afford a fancy plate and it looked better.

 

Perfect !

 

Any input on post 59 ?
Or the pic in 46 ?

 

When I get home tonight and get a chance I'm going to take pics of mine from similar angles to compare.

 

If you were to drill/tap new Blower mount holes, right next to and forward of the present holes in the intake, it SHOULD give you the clearence you need...

 

Right about now I'm wondering if someone re- drilled a set rearward from the originals for some yet to be seen reason.
Ill be pulling it off tomorrow and having a look

 

PM me the size of your Distributor. I just happen to have a spare Mag that may solve some clearance issues for you. It would save you the clip space anyways. Sorry you are having such trouble. Keep with it it'll be worth it.



Tim

 

Thanks a bunch Tim !

I'm having trouble at both ends though. Something isn't right as the front isn't fitting correctly either.
Ill find it with some help from you guys

 

Well my manifold clearly is physically different casting wise.
The hole pattern is shifted rearward. So much so that one of the blower bolts is directly over a manifold blot rendering that blower bolt thread less.

It is a weiand wc671 with round pop off in the rear.

 

At the front you can see the relationship of where the blower goes vs where the manifold bolts go. There's also a set of tapped holes in the center webbing.
I wonder if someone had an adapter plate in there to move the blower forward?

 

Plug the holes with aluminum bolts or weld and re drill.


Ago

 

Nice job let us know how she goes when it all together !

 

If you compare my manifold to Kerry's you'll see that there would no material to bolt the blower to at the front and then there would be a giant hole behind the blower.
I would need an adapter plate or different manifold.
The adapter plate seems like a bs way because the charge hole would be miss aligned and effectively smaller.

 

I still maintain that you could drill/tap the blower mount holes forward enough to give you enough clearence, but NOT so much forward as to cause a "giant hole" behind the blower. Whoever had that intake before used an adapter plate. As for misalignment, on the street it's not as critical as you might think. An adapter plate might be your easiest route. If it were me, I'd consider drilling/tapping the intake to allow the bit of clearence you need...

 

This might sound REALLY stupid, but are you sure you don't have the manifold on backwards?...

 

this was the first thing I thought of, I didnt put it on but I
dont think so though. the mating surface needs to be over the front holes

 

its kind of screwwy, but if you study the pics youll see exactly how different the blower bolt hole pattern really is compared to the manifold bolt pattern.

start by the W. look at catalog pic, The first manifold bolt is below the W second is above the W and the First blower bolt is just below the 3rd manifold bolt. Now look at mine, That first blower bolt is just above the 2nd manifold bolt. Then compare the front ant theres a bunch of casting and mating surface missing if the blower gets moved up

the wc671 manifold I have is different than the WC671 in the catalog pic, very different. Also stamped CARSON on the web. maybe insignificant?

 

I'm thinking it might be better to make a thicker front front plate spacer and shim out the coupler, then rework the rear plate.

If I ran an adapter plate I suppose it should be about 1"
Thick right ? I'd want to have enough threads into it to hold the blower down. Then I have an inch clearance to deal with up top again.

 

This thread mentions a description of one bolt missing , exactly like mine but that's it.
http://www.thehemi.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=14084

 

Well it sucks to be me today

 

I have seen Weiand blower intakes for the Desotos on ebay, but they have no provision for coolant, so it must be a 1/4 mile unit only. They looked good with a low profile.

 

And/OR get a 340 distributor, set up to run in the 354/392 (narrower body).

http://www.hothemiheads.com/ignition_system/distributor_conv_mopar.html


This IS a Chrysler...right?...

 

Yes it's a Chrysler , 1956

This is as far as I can get my head around this ...

The symptom > nothing fits front or back
Problem > blower is too far back due to manifold see pics
Fix> the very back needs to come forward and the very front needs to come forward.

Possible solutions :
Different manifold to position blower correctly
Adapter plate to position blower on current manifold
Machine rear cover for clearance & add spacer to front cover for distance.

That's as far as I can get on my own

 

Make it EASY on yourself and do the Adaptor plate! You'll solve BOTH of your problems with the least expense and hassle, and get the blower EXACTLY where you want. Use a 3/4 inch 6061 aluminum plate and use countersunk machine screws to mount it to the intake. It lools like some previous owner had to do that, too....

 

You have to be carefull with adpt plates, belts only come in limited sizes and then you run into idler issues

 

Occam's razor would say the correct manifold would be the best all around solution

 

Taken from here -
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=471230

That is the same manifold as mine.

 

Hey guys,
I'm in the process of putting together a blown injected 392 for my 32 3w coupe. I'm in the stage of rounding up parts now and getting a game plan together. I have a rebuilt/setup 671, I bought a new jr Thompson intake, and picked up a magnesium enderle bugcatcher. Now I'm on the hunt for a drive setup. All I've seen is polished billet crap. Does anybody know a source for some vintage blower drive parts? I been checking eBay but nothing is really popping up. I'd love to find a delta front cover with the idler arm.

Another thing, when it comes to belt/pulley pitch, I assume 1/2" was what they had first then 8mm, 13.9mm, and 14mm. I know 1/2" would probably be more period correct but what would your opinion be on using 14mm pitch pulleys? I've found a lot of used magnesium 14mm pulleys I could probably make work. I think they look pretty cool and I'd like to use as many magnesium parts as I can. I know this is kind of a dorky thing to ask, but is there any sound difference between the 1/2" and 14mm? I know the sound depends a lot on belt tension but what about a square tooth compared to a round tooth?

Thanks
Mark

 

Anyone have one of these PAW water crossovers?
Please consider renting it for measurements and scanning.