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HEMI Tech- Blowers, Superchargers, fuel injection

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scootermcrad, Jul 5, 2006.

  1. krooser
    Joined: Jul 25, 2004
    Posts: 4,583

    krooser
    Member

    Some good fixes for this problem... I like both Kerry's and Gary's....345's is Ok, too.

    I was thinking of using my old set of chrome covers and tig welding on a short filler tube kinda like the breathers we used on our old stock cars... I guess I could rig up a remote filler and use the threaded bung on the valley cover...

    Gotta think on this fer awhile... at least I'm finally working on this project again.
     
  2. aircoup
    Joined: Aug 13, 2009
    Posts: 900

    aircoup

    YOU know what they say,,,INJECTION,S NICE BUT ID RATHER BE BLOWN
     
  3. Slick Steve
    Joined: Dec 4, 2007
    Posts: 318

    Slick Steve
    Member
    from Indy

  4. krooser
    Joined: Jul 25, 2004
    Posts: 4,583

    krooser
    Member

    Another deal showed up last night... this is a question for the guys using a stock crank hub with the pulleys bolted to the hub...

    I'm using a Dyer's drive kit (uses a the stock hub with or without a damper) and the stock crank hub is threaded for 5/16" NF... the Dyers hub/pulley is drilled for a sloppy fit with 3/8" bolts. I'm not real crazy about have 1/32" clearance on a 3 1/2' long bolt that goes thru the crank pulley.

    I'm thinking of redrilling and tapping the six crank hub bolts for a 3/8" bolt then using a small bush under the bolt head to take up the slop in the pulley holes. I talked to Bill Dyer this morning and he said they just use 38" bolts and call it good... probably is Ok since these guys have been doing this a lot longer than I have...

    The middle pic here kinda shows the style of pulley I'm using (although this is a Chevy set-up)... My early MOPAR drive kit is really a Dyer's BBC kit with a modified bottom pulley to accomadate the early MOPAR hub. http://www.dyersblowers.com/187/1649.html
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2010
  5. mysunnshine
    Joined: Jul 31, 2009
    Posts: 29

    mysunnshine
    Member
    from The Desert

    Here's how to hide the fuel injection-

    [​IMG]
     
  6. hemiphil
    Joined: May 6, 2010
    Posts: 25

    hemiphil
    Member
    from australia

    i have got 1 of those blower manifolds, bought it at a swapmeet A$500.00, I %$%&&^^ UP,fits my hemi ok, not my poly, found out that 354 hemi truck heads were at fault
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2011
  7. Kreepea_1
    Joined: Sep 17, 2007
    Posts: 449

    Kreepea_1
    Member

    That's neat! I met this pretty cool dude, Fran Olson (Boston Area Roadsters club), over the net back in 2005 that was making injector plates for the early Dodge Hemis and I believe he used the O ring-tipped injectors that pressed into the hats and a Megasquirt system to operate it all. Here are some pics that he sent me. He may be here on the HAMB.
     

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  8. alfin32
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,427

    alfin32
    Member
    from Essex, Ma.

    '54 331", .030 over, Clay Smith cam, Hilborn injection w/ EFI.
    Dynoed at 330hp / 350tq.
     

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  9. I wound up bolting it to the front of my valve cover...
     
  10. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,257

    oj
    Member

    Great subject Scooter, i am in need of advice. I have a 354 and just picked up a bowers 6-71 magnesium 2 lobe and been thinking of using a half-dozen holley 1904's because i like the bowls. But they are tiny, should i cut them loose and use some 94's? SaltFlatMatt sent me flanges to make the intake manifold for the carbs an i been dragging my feet thinking the 1904s' are too small.
    This is not gonna be a race motor, its goin in my avatar with a 4 speed.
    Whats do you guys think?
    thanks, oj
     
  11. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,545

    73RR
    Member

    Even as a daily driver a blown 354 should have 700-800 cfm on top. Are the 1904's rated at all??

    my 2¢

    .
     
  12. I'm catching hell here .
    Something is wrong and I'm not sure where its at.
    Seems like the entire blower and manifold need to come forward .
     

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    Last edited: Apr 12, 2013
  13. What are we looking at...the firewall? If it is, you either need to move the engine forward, the body back, or recess the fire wall...
     
  14. Blower is way too close to distributor
     

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  15. Here's the back
     

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  16. Here's the front.
    Straight edge is on the block. And lines up with drive surface.
    It's a weiand swing arm drive.
    The drive needs a 1/2" shim to line up with the crank.
    The swing arm hits the water pump.
    And one rear cover bolt was ground down to let the cap go on.

    Seems like the entire manifold and blower need to come forward.
    The only thing goofy is those are truck heads.

    If you guys can take the same pics of your working set up ill be able to tell what's going on I hope
     

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    Last edited: Apr 12, 2013
  17. ago
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 2,199

    ago
    Member
    from pgh. pa.

    No, You need a narrower rear blower cover. There is available finned sealed bearing rear covers that are narrow. I have one on my 6-71 and have plenty clearance.



    Ago
     
    classiccarjack likes this.
  18. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,115

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Racers use a different rear bearing housing. You can machine the housing down around the perimiter and leave the bearing towers alone and use shorter bolts.Just put caps on to seal the bearings and shafts.
     
  19. This makes perfect sense -
    Now what about the front?
    A thicker cover there ?
     

  20. Something like/ similar to this for the rear ?
     

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  21. TERPU
    Joined: Jan 2, 2004
    Posts: 2,271

    TERPU
    Member

    Here's a Manifold Gary Evans made for me to use '54 heads and block using the stock front cover. It's a 2x4 Offy manifold milled flat, we used a 1" spacer plate welded to the manifold and then milled that to the same plane as the intake runners so it sits level, then a plate bolted to the top of it for the blower. This way all the water stuff goes where it should and the tall heat riser is covered by the intae. Gary is a genius and super talented. It wouldn't have happened without him for sure.

    [​IMG]

    Tim
     
  22. You need to do what TERPU said. That's how I did mine. That way you can put the blower EXACTLY where it needs to go...
     

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  23. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,115

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    The problem with changing out the rear bearing housing is that you may have to set up the blower again since the placment of the locating dowels might be off. Blower rebuilders will align the rear housing and re-ream the dowels and install oversize ones.
     
  24. Well that's a fine job on both of you guys projects there. Very trick
    Supposedly I have the majority of correct vintage parts that are supposed to fit together. Before I scrap that vintage manifold and build my own I think there's a few parts in the mix that are wrong.
    What they are is the question. Rear plate seems to be a major player back there.
    If I need to make my own manifold ill get buzzy soon. There's a bunch of blown chrysler hemi stuff already built though.


    Oh great !
    I paid good money once already to have this worked out.
     

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    Last edited: Apr 12, 2013
  25. You are using the old Weiand Typhoon intake, right? Unless the stud holes were moved you shouldn't have an issue. I've got the same intake on my digger and have a stock case, reinforced stock rear bearing plate, and a Cragar cover. Check out my space.

    [​IMG]

    Here's a shot of the front

    [​IMG]

    and here are some pictures of the Weiand Typhoon intake.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  26. I have the plates from Fran Olson, and they are excellent.
     
  27. Fran built this engine - 421 cubic inch stroker , supplied all the parts, Set the blower up, and he's also ground the bolt down so the distributor would fit.
     

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    Last edited: Apr 12, 2013
  28. See the manifold to blower relationship here ?
     

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  29. in the last pic, my set up, you can see the endplate is beyond the manifold.

    in kerry's pic
    look at the relationship of the cragar cover plate to the manifold on the far end at the manifold notch- looks like theres about 1/2" to 3/4 of manifold beyond the blower. is that correct ?
    [​IMG][/URL]
     
  30. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,115

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Just knock your old plate off and machine it and alignment should not change
     

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