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Hemi pushrod change method?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TDWZ28, Aug 11, 2011.

  1. TDWZ28
    Joined: Sep 18, 2007
    Posts: 152

    TDWZ28
    Member
    from Michigan

    I need to install the adjustable pushrods in my 392. Engine is running fine, but I have a couple of tickers. Digging aroung the web, I found this response to a question. Any of you Hemi guys tried this method?



    I use an old drag racer technique of adjusting pushrods. Some people use wrenches, but this is faster. You unload the rocker (heel of cam on lifter) use a crescent wrench to rotate the rocker, and a rubber hammer to tap the rocker off the valve stem.

    Pull the pushrod to loosen the threads, and put it back in and put the rocker back on. Now adjust the pushrod until you just start getting resistance from the lifter. Wiggle the rocker and recheck. Use your finger to tighten one of the pushrod bolts just enough so it doesn't move when you take it out.

    Use the crescent and hammer again and pull the pushrod out. Now take your wrenches and open the pushrod out one full turn. Lock everything down. One full turn gives the recommended hydraulic pre-load.

    Put it back in and put the rocker on. It sounds more complicated than it is. I can usually do all 16 in about 15 minutes, and the old drag racers could do it so fast it makes me look like I'm asleep.
     
  2. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,726

    George
    Member

    That would work, but what is ticking? Bent push rod or a problem with the lifter or cam lobe?
     
  3. TDWZ28
    Joined: Sep 18, 2007
    Posts: 152

    TDWZ28
    Member
    from Michigan

    Im not 100% sure that it is a loose pushrod, but it sure sounds like it. The engine is quiet when I first start it. After it gets warm, I can hear what sounds like a loose pushrod on each bank, which leads me to beleive the tolerances are changing just enough to let the pushrod gain enough slack to rattle. It has an Isky cam, hyd lifters, non-adjustable rods. If it were a bad lifter or a lobe going bad, I think that I'd hear it as soon as it was running.
     
  4. I would recommend being super careful not to mark, nick, or even scratch those rocker arms (hammer or crescent wrench). Any damage or mark is a great place to initiate a failure on a stressed part. Soft tools (aluminum) would eliminate this possibility.
     

  5. Hot oil bleeds out of hydraulic lifters faster than cold oil.
     
  6. TDWZ28
    Joined: Sep 18, 2007
    Posts: 152

    TDWZ28
    Member
    from Michigan

    Thanks 30. I talked to Bob Walker at HHH today. He uses a KD3087 spring compressor and a rubber mallet. I have been looking all day for a 3087, but it has been discontinued. I will make a tool tomorrow. I have some good aluminum to work with. Thanks for the reply.
    I'm hoping that it isn't a lifter or 2 going bad or getting weak.
     
  7. I have the same problem with my 331. It starts quiet and gains lash at temp. The only difference is that i have adjustable pushrods. I have tried many dif lash seittings and all have about the same results. I went to 20-50 oil and this seemed to help a bit. Good luck with your venture.Hack
     
  8. TDWZ28
    Joined: Sep 18, 2007
    Posts: 152

    TDWZ28
    Member
    from Michigan

    Thanks Hack. I'm running 20-50 in it now. Man, I hope these adjustables work.
     
  9. TDWZ28
    Joined: Sep 18, 2007
    Posts: 152

    TDWZ28
    Member
    from Michigan

    Got the pushrods swapped. It sounds REAL good now. No noise at all.
     
  10. Bringing back an old thread.

    Can you show me the tool you made to compress the springs?
     
  11. TDWZ28
    Joined: Sep 18, 2007
    Posts: 152

    TDWZ28
    Member
    from Michigan

    I sent you a PM Dan.
     

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