Okay, I know that alot of people are wanting to see some pics of my helve. I'm sorry that I haven't posted earlier, It's just that I have a lot of "hard work-honest money" to do during the day at the shop. I've been thinking about making these helves for a year now, knowing that the whole legal thing would be a huge hurdle to pass. I wanted to make them available to as many people as possible, because I firmly believe in how useful they are. So I think the best thing to do would be to make a tech posting on construction and tooling. If you can make one for yourself I strongly urge you to do so. They are not to very expensive to make, but some parts can be a pain to gather. I would say that my basic model would probably be on the medium side of price, but it has a long time of use and thinking behind it. If you have seen the other sites, you know that some of these hammers are being made on the cheap side of doing things. Stay far away from this, these hammers can be dangerous, and you don't want anything falling off or breaking. I think my frame addresses this issue very well. If you do decide to go ahead and build one you will find that you have an incredible workhorse that does the job of many machines. You can bead, punch, flange, stretch, and yes even shrink. All of this in one machine that costs less than having a Pullmax shipped and installed in your shop. Anyway, enough ranting. Like I said, I'll post a tech on building this model some time this week. For those of you that are interested I can put together a weld-up kit that will include all of the parts you'll need. All pipes will be cut on the horizontal bandsaw with correct miters. Just let me know. Pics do not show update changes The frame is designed with a 3 foot throat and 16 inces from bottom stroke to the next lower pipe. It can handle a large panel such as a hood with ease (louvers anyone?). The frame has also been triangulated for ease of cuts and makes it really strong at the same time.The motor plugs in at 110, you don't need air. It has been placed low and in the center for best balance and ballast. These machines can be tuned in a lot of different ways and you can find all this info on the other sites. All of the bumpstops I've seen are made halfway up the arm, cutting the throat in half. I put the bumpstop on top with a cantilever design so you can still have the full reach and still plannish. Also the pad is removable so you can form curves(ie: fenders, bowls, etc...) rightside up or upside down. Footspace is slim being at 2' x 4' x 3.5' so it can fit in the most cramped garages. If you don't bolt it down, you will need to place weights on it to keep it from walking (I'll show you what I did for this on the tech). Place wheels on it if you want. Well, there you go. Sorry if this whole thing has been long winded. I just wanted to share this with all of you, and isn't that what the HAMB is all about? Custom side mouldings anyone? Mouldings made on helve in three passes. First two roughed shaped it, third plannished. Edge guide was used to keep from wondering. rocker test piece made on brake, helve, and plannishing hammer. Rocker is for my '50 ford and allows side pipes tucked in. Each of these pieces took only minutes to make. I'm definitely not the first one to make this type of helve and many thanks to those that have shared their experiences.