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Help!!!!!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 80vette, Jul 20, 2011.

  1. 80vette
    Joined: Nov 16, 2008
    Posts: 53

    80vette
    Member

    Guys and gals...i need help. Here's the situation. Trying to install aluminum headlight brackets to my frame on the 32 Roadster. The frame is boxed so I tried to install flush mount nuts. Basically you drill a 9/16" hole and insert the assembly. When you tighten the 3/8"x 16 bolt it's supposed to work like a rivet but just doesn't work as designed. I mean I'm no dummy but these things are wortless. Anyone done this and have an easier way or suggest a better part? The units I'm using are called Masron steel Kilt thread-serts....and they SUCK!!! Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Leo
     
  2. 52Poncho
    Joined: Apr 23, 2011
    Posts: 256

    52Poncho
    Member

    Use the nuts with the washer built-in (flange nut).

    [​IMG]

    With a drill the size of the flange countersink the frame. Turn the nut upside down ( flange up ) Weld the nut to the frame. This should hold it.
     
  3. I think those are the same as what I got from Welder Series. I found it easier to tack mine in place with my TIG torch, and then tighten with a couple washers. I really liked them
     
  4. 80vette
    Joined: Nov 16, 2008
    Posts: 53

    80vette
    Member

    52Poncho...nocando...frame is boxed.......thought of cutting the frame open but really don't want to do that. It's all primered and ready for paint.....thnx
     

  5. 80vette
    Joined: Nov 16, 2008
    Posts: 53

    80vette
    Member

  6. 80vette,

    I assume (always dangerous) that the mounting surface is in the top rail? May not really matter.

    I watched a friend of my dads install a bunch of the nuts 52poncho described in a custom frame. He drilled a hole in the top rail of a boxed frame, the hole was just big enough to flush fit the nut flange in the frame, ran a bolt into the nut to give him something to hold on to, turned the nut upside down, lowered it into the new hole until the flange was flush with the top frame rail surface, tacked it all the way around at the edge, ground it smooth and hit it with a rattle can

    edit - from a recent street rodder:eek:

    http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/1105sr_shoebox_ford_art_morrison_frame/chassis_install.html
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2011
  7. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    Go and buy yourself some flanged nuts the size thread you need. Drill a hole in the frame just large enough for the hex part to drop in. Now weld around the flange and your home free. This will result in the threaded surface to be a bit higher than the surrounding frame but if your unwilling to cut an access hole in the frame you have little choice A thick gasket cut to fit over the raised area could provide some filler if the gap between the part and the frame is unacceptable.

    Frank
     
  8. There are tools out there to install nut-serts, but you can stack some washers on the bolt and hold the washers with vise-grip pliers and tighten the bolt til the nut-sert seats, then remove the washers and you're done. Just don't let the vise-grip grab the washer closest to the bolt so it will spin with the bolt.
     
  9. 52Poncho
    Joined: Apr 23, 2011
    Posts: 256

    52Poncho
    Member

    Don't need to cut the frame open???

    Just drill the frame to insert the nut, use a bolt to hold it into position and weld. This works well. Fab32 uses this way also as he described. Not that difficult. :cool:

    [​IMG]

    Notice the countersink in the first photo.
     

  10. Yeah, sounds like he lacks the Rivnut tool. Always done it without one, just a couple nuts and a bolt.
     
  11. HomemadeHardtop57
    Joined: Nov 15, 2007
    Posts: 4,205

    HomemadeHardtop57
    Member

    what 52poncho said..get something like those..drill a hole in the top of the frame...hold it with a bolt to tack it on..then burn it in good.
     
  12. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,247

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Yeah, the tool is just like a heavy duty rivet gun except it has a threaded insert sticking out that you screw the rivnut onto, place it in the hole and squeeze.
    You can do them with washers/nuts too as mentioned but it might take a couple of tries to perfect the method. Not hard though.

    I've seen things like retrofit roof racks for modern cars come with a special tool...basicly a specially shaped mandrel(?) with a center bolt that you hold the mandrel with a wrench and turn the bolt which collapses the Rivnut.
    They work well too.

    Personally, with the frame just in primer...I'd go the welded nut way that has been mentioned already by several people.
    Now and then I've seen those Rivnuts start to spin in the metal after a couple of removals...so I'm a bit weary of them.
     
  13. 80vette
    Joined: Nov 16, 2008
    Posts: 53

    80vette
    Member

    52Poncho...AAAHHH !!! The light just went on !!! GREAT IDEA ! Thnx 52Poncho and the rest for the input.
     
  14. 52Poncho
    Joined: Apr 23, 2011
    Posts: 256

    52Poncho
    Member

    If you use a stick welder use a small 6011 rod otherwise a MIG works great but a TIG is best. Sorry i didn't explain it better to begin with, but a picture is a thousand words. Give us a picture of how they turned out. Good luck! :cool:
     
  15. Randy in Oklahoma
    Joined: Sep 18, 2008
    Posts: 301

    Randy in Oklahoma
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    I have been struggling with this same problem on my boxed 40 frame. Thanks for all those who chimed in...will help get my project off dead center!
     
  16. monkeywrenching
    Joined: Feb 14, 2007
    Posts: 299

    monkeywrenching
    Member
    from maryland

    This is the way I install them. Get a bolt the same tread and about 1 1/2 long with treads to the head. You will need a nut one size bigger, two washers and a star washer. Stack them like this: insert, star washer, nut, flat washers. Then tread them together with the bolt. Hold the larger nut with a thin boxend and turn the bolt with a socket. The star washer will compress against the insert not allowing it to turn. the bolt will draw the insert together.
     
  17. 80vette
    Joined: Nov 16, 2008
    Posts: 53

    80vette
    Member

    52 Poncho.....SUCCESS!!!!! Thnx to you....and the other HAMBers. Got the headlights installed. Check out the pix. Also included pix of the other nuts I was gonna use. In retrospect they wouldn't have lasted...I'm sure. I feel SO much better doing it your way. Thnx again for the boot in the ass and showin me the RIGHT way to do it....Leo
     

    Attached Files:

  18. 52Poncho
    Joined: Apr 23, 2011
    Posts: 256

    52Poncho
    Member

    Looks very cool. Nice job! You have more pics of your rod?
     

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