I just picked up a set of original American Racing torq thrust wheels front 14x6 and back 14x7 They seem to have a recessed spot where a washer fits . They didn’t come with lug nuts . So what I need to know is what specific size/length/style lug nut I need?? It looks like it is the shank variety not the acorn style like for Chevy steel wheels The car they are going on is a stock 1955 Chevy 150 sedan Thanks!
Those style lug nuts were pretty standard across all wheel makes, so all you need to do is make sure the shank isn't longer than the wheel depth and get the right thread. Like these... https://www.amazon.com/McGard-61001...C6C6A6F17G1&psc=1&refRID=92NQZVS40C6C6A6F17G1
Ok I will go measure the stud length and then also measure the length of the front to back length of the wheel
The other thing that should be mentioned is this style lug nut MUST be torqued evenly. Uneven torque will allow them to loosen and a wheel coming off can be the result. The newer style tapered-seat versions aren't as sensitive to this which is why most wheel manufacturers have switched to that type, although IMO ANY aluminum wheel should have it's lug nuts torqued.
Crazy Steve is spot on. And just to be clear-er-er, you want the lug nut shanks to be as long as needed but you don't want them to bottom out and prevent the hex/washer from doing ALL the clamping force work. I'm sure you got all that already...... but there maybe someone out there who needs the tip.
One other tip, retorque the nuts after a short drive and check them periodically. When I was running those wheels, I kept a torque wrench in my car! I checked them quite often! Sometimes I would find a lose one! Bones
Good washers are about 3/16” to 1/4” thick and the lugs have threads all the way to the end of the nut. Check out Gorilla lugs... good luck.
Be sure not to get the shank length super close to bottoming out, you will see some wear on the washers after removing and reinstalling the wheels a few times. Washer thickness can be your friend here.
Not been that long since I picked some up at local parts house off the shelf, 5 or 6 bucks for four pack with washers. off brand maybe but they work.
Don't buy the store brand nuts off the shelf at the local parts store. The nuts are fine (they will rust faster than any of the quality nuts) but the washers are about half as thick and soft. Gorilla is probably the best bang for the buck on good nuts and washers currently. Summit Racing is an excellent source. The number one mistake people not familiar with shank lug nuts make is getting the shank too long as mentioned above. If the end of the shank contacts the hub before the wheel is tight you will never win the battle. That's how old mags get their lug holes wallowed out. I've even cut/ground the end of the shank off a bit to gain some breathing room there. You want a slight air gap between the end of the shank and the hub on the car, it they touch you're screwed. Thick washers, correct shank length and proper torque are your friend. SPark
Another thing to be careful about is when using an air gun on shank style lug nuts with aluminum wheels, both when running the nut in or removing them as some wheels can have a tight lug hole bore, that along with the combination of a lug shank on the higher end of the diameter range, it can gall pretty easy. I made that mistake on my big rear Halibrands and it took some effort to get the build up off both the lug nut shank and the holes in the wheels, I put a small amount of antiseize on the shank now and run them in with a speed handle, then tighten them.
Thanks so much for all the tips/info on the lugs and rims that I mentioned above I had another set of wheels(plain steel ones ) I was maybe gonna picking up as well for an extra set . Had a question about those : What year Chevy/make steel wheels will work on a 1955 Chevy 150 sedan car . Just wanna make sure these ones I’m considering getting would work. Thanks!
One other thing that has not been mentioned is to put all five lugnuts on by hand before tightening any nut. This is a good practice for any wheel, but mandatory for these type wheels. Bones
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