I have a Hudson hornet hollywood from '53 The work is going to slow but i think most off us know what i'm talking about. Anyway, the next thing to do is overhaul the engine. I disassembled the complete engine, measured anything and orderd a complete overhauling kit. After that i start cleaning up the empty engine body and i discovered some paste above the frost plugs. I thought it was some paste-remainder that whas pulled out after replacing a cylinderhead gasket. (i thought!!) It turned out that it whas a huge crack from 15" Welding i think is not an option but i do going to give it a try(i have nothing to lose) There is one for sale on e-bay out of a 1950 commodore but i think it is not the same (308 ci) I am going to heat the engine, weld an inch, let it cool down a little and then hammer the cast iron. Only heating up the cast iron is what makes me worry... I do have the correct welding rods. Is there anyone that have weld an engine before, or have a hudson engine laying around in the yard... Or can help one way or another...it would be highly appreciated!! Chico <TABLE class=gt-baf-table><TBODY><TR><TD> </TD><TD style="WIDTH: 100%"> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Get in touch with "51hornetdude" here on the HAMB. He is a big time Hudson man. I am too but I have don't have any parts to help you out with and I've never welded an engine block. I know it can be done successfully though. If it's only in the water jacket area of the block then I don't see a problem welding it up. Hope you get'er going. Ken
Chico, without actually seeing the crack I can only help you so much. Check out this repair method which I recommend HIGHLY. We have used this system on Race Engines for decades, some vintage race engines that simply can not be replaced, www.irontite.com, the site you wil have to navigate through to find the cast iron plugs, taps and reamers to do the job correctly. Finish with thier Ceramic Engine Sealers. These are used here in the U.S. on Deisels Trucks/ Tractor-Trailers that have millions of miles on them everyday. They work, and can be installed by anyone with some common sense, hand tools, and patience- NO WELDING!! Best of luck, TR
TR, Thanks for the information. The engine is unfortunatly not at my home, so i'm not able to take a picture of the crack. I brought it to a welding company but they refuse to weld it. (they don't want to take the risc) I will check the website and see if i can fix it without welding!! thanks Guys!!
You can visually indentify a 308 block compared to a 232-262 by the extra gusseting along the drivers side of the block, approx. 6" up from the oil pan. Factory 232-262 engines do not have this.
I have used the ironstitch process since the early eighties. If this is a "freeze" crack. The repair will work well if there is no internal issues that you can't get to. You will have to "deck" the head surface of the block. As final part of repair. As this type of damage really moves/humps the surface around. After I repair the casting. I use a cross-link sealer that Goodson sells. Expensive but works.. I make up plates to block any coolant outlets, bolt the head on with a cardboard gasket and "pressure test" the part. I inject the white sealer into the internal jacket and apply about 20 lbs. shop air pressure to the sealed coolant area. Rotate block, under pressure. To distribute sealer. If there is any leakage the white sealer will show. A bit of peening usually will stop seepage. Drain excess sealer back into jug (it's reusable). Then cure the block/sealer with torch/heat till it turns purple and the stuff never leaks. I have several race engines, three old early 1920's wheel tractors and a couple of old Packard boat engines out there running on this repair for years.
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