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Help! stuck tap!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dynaflash_8, Nov 26, 2010.

  1. Dynaflash_8
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 3,016

    Dynaflash_8
    Member
    from Auburn WA

    So i was tapping a hole in a piece of steel, and i ran into a slight problem. I used 30 weight oil for cutting fluid, and got the hole tapped. When i was running the tap back though the fresh threads, it stuck. Now it wont budge and im not gonna take a chance on breaking it. I was thinkin of using a torch to heat the area around the tap to try and ease it out.

    Any help?
     
  2. 1941ihkb5
    Joined: Feb 19, 2009
    Posts: 338

    1941ihkb5
    Member

    Id heat around the tap with a torch like you said.
     
  3. old lady's mad
    Joined: Mar 18, 2007
    Posts: 173

    old lady's mad
    Member

    ive had that happen before. torch didnt work for me just made the tap more brittle. i would up breaking my tap. and drilling it out . before you break it off , try to just move it a slight amount back and forth. using penetrating oil.
     
  4. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,050

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    How did you drill out the tap? Or did you EDM it out?
     
    Moriarity likes this.
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  5. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,844

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    Ive had a tap break and heated the tap cherry red and then redrilled and retapped .I thought this thread was about a stuck keg tap and you needed the tap for another keg ,Damn Im confused .....
     
  6. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,723

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    If you can't get it to move at all, in or out. Get somebody with a big plasma cutter and a steady hand to burn the center out. Then you can pick the sides out.
     
  7. louie the fly
    Joined: Jul 3, 2006
    Posts: 178

    louie the fly
    Member

    Hey, has the tap broken off or just seized in the thread? If broken, can you post a picture of it from the top. Having trained apprentices for years, and being in the trade myself for 30 of em, I've removed my share of busted and siezed taps. What's it in, blind or thru hole, etc. etc. What material? What size thread? I've always started with the simplest way of removing and worked up to the "EDM tap remover" method as a last resort.

    Try this. Get a piece of thin stiff wire, a small drill, or a scriber if it will fit, & poke it (rub it) down the tap along the back side of the flutes. There might be some shit in there that has caused it to jam. Then try screwing it back in a bit. If it won't move, you're buggered!
     
    neilswheels likes this.
  8. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,844

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    I changed my mind ,Run it back in ,and then try to take it out ,JUST LITTLE TURNS THOUGH HEAT BRAKES BOLTS AND TAPS .They can twist a fair amount .Good luck...
     
  9. wildearp
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 522

    wildearp
    Member
    from tucson, az

    How you proceed depends on what object you are tapping. If it doesn't matter, break off the tap, hammer it out and start again. This simple, stupid thing has worked for me lots of times.

    If it is a high value part and you used a dull tap with improper tap fluid.........well, you need to re-evaluate your situation. :cool:

    Sometimes it is the simple shitz that works............spray that tap with Liquid Wrench. This has been a huge problem solver for me thoughout the years.
     
  10. Dynaflash_8
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 3,016

    Dynaflash_8
    Member
    from Auburn WA

    its not broken yet, just stuck
     
  11. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,369

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

    Don't heat it! It will lose it's temper (hardness) and then it (will) break. You need to give us more info as stated above size, 3 flute, 4 flute, bottom tap, starter tap, fine thread, course thread? What's the material you are tapping? Then maybe we can help you out.
     
  12. Francisco Plumbero
    Joined: May 6, 2010
    Posts: 2,536

    Francisco Plumbero
    Member
    from il.

    In this case you would want to freeze it, shrink the metal in the base part and shrink the tap, same as a press in stud, can you put it in the freezer? By me you could park it out side for an hour.
     
  13. Get a can of Tap Magic, smells like cinnamon. Soak it down and run the tap back into the hole. You will have to go down a little and back out a little. It a process of down a little and out a little in small increments. Patience is KING !! >>>>.
     
    Paul likes this.



  14. This is a GREAT IDEA!
     
  15. Dynaflash_8
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 3,016

    Dynaflash_8
    Member
    from Auburn WA

    its a 4 flute tap, 1/2 - 20 thread. Im tapping the holes on the crank flange of a motor so i can bolt a flywheel up to it.
     
  16. What size tap ?

    Through hole, or blind ?

    What material ?

    edit: i type slow.
     
  17. If the crank is out of the motor, worst case,
    it can be set up in a milling machine, to drill the tap out.

    Done it before, with a Carbide drill.

    Done correctly, it won't touch the threads.
     
  18. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,369

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

    Yup Patience Grasshopper Patience.:D If you go too fast it will be FUBAR! (Fucked up beyond all recognition).
     
  19. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,369

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

  20. Giovanni
    Joined: Jan 21, 2010
    Posts: 173

    Giovanni
    Member

    try turning the tap all the way back in. blow out the hole with compressed air, then spray some penetrating oil on it and back out.
    If you tapped the hole in one shot (meaning you just kept turning the tap in, not 3/4 in, 1/4 out, 3/4 in...) then there is a good chance that the longer chip has just bound up the tap
     
    Boneyard51 and Barrelnose pickup like this.
  21. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 646

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    The only way i have seen it work very well would be solid carbide drill in a mill with a rigid set up.Then use the threaded stop so slowly increment the feed down.Would also have an air blast going to remove the chips as the tap breaks up.Most times its quicker and less destructive if you can get the part in an edm machine.I would do it for free if you take care of the shipping.
     
  22. I've used a carbide tip for a dremel from home depot to get a 1/4" tap out of a hole...it was fun.
     
  23. Harry Bergeron
    Joined: Feb 10, 2009
    Posts: 345

    Harry Bergeron
    Member
    from SoCal

    Freeze it, colder the better, then go at it right away.
    Don't have a freezer, use a fire extinquisher.
     
  24. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 27,257

    The37Kid
    Member

    I was thinking the same thing. Try some P.B. Blaster after the compressed air and poking with a wire to free up all the chips. :)
     
    Paul likes this.
  25. as dumb as it may sound, you might try a can of computer keyboard spray turned upside down with the extension on the nozzle (think wd-40 like) and aim it at the tap. it comes out freezing cold. Just a thought
     
  26. Ratty55
    Joined: Nov 13, 2007
    Posts: 396

    Ratty55
    Member
    from Frohna,MO

    FYI: Next time use two flute taps on steel and 4 flute taps on softer materials. Two flute taps can handle more torque before breaking.
    Justin
     
  27. BIG-JIM
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,369

    BIG-JIM
    Member
    from CT

    Very good info. We should do a Tapping 101 thread...:D
     
  28. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,572

    BISHOP
    Member

    Ding Ding Ding..... The winner.
     
  29. Giovanni
    Joined: Jan 21, 2010
    Posts: 173

    Giovanni
    Member

    Yes, a tapping 101 thread would be a good idea. Always use a tapping fluid like tap magic. That wonderful smell is a higher content of lubricating minerals. They get in between the cutting edge and the metal. You are cutting with the sulfur or zinc or whatever they put in there, and not with the actual tap. Think solid lifter cam and zddp.
    I generally never cut more than half a turn at a time unless I'm going into plastic.
    Also, don't be fooled into thinking that this doesn't apply to aluminum and other soft metals. They tend to gall much more that steel or iron, and proper lubrication is really important.
     
    Cosmo49 likes this.

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