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Hot Rods Help on 235 chevy T-5 Flywheel & Clutch setup

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dyno Dave, Jan 5, 2016.

  1. Dyno Dave
    Joined: Feb 18, 2011
    Posts: 291

    Dyno Dave
    Member

    Have a '54 BelAir sedan and I'm gathering parts for installing a v8 Camaro/S-10 hybrid t5 into the car for street use. Using 55-62 car six cylinder bellhousing #3836741 and a S-10 4x4 4.10 ratio axle.

    Summit lists Zoom 10.5" 168 tooth flywheel #zzz-50-6504
    Zoom 10.5" 168 tooth 11/8" 26 spline clutch kit #zzz-MU56-1
    Summit 12v 168 tooth starter SUM-G 1665
    Any advice/comments on this combination would really be appreciated,
    anxious to start rowing that 5-speed... Thanks, Dyno Dave
     
  2. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Good thing you asked questions before buying! That flywheel, although it is the correct diameter/tooth count, it won't bolt to the EARLY six, and that starter won't either (I think you meant to type SUM-G1668, even though it's NOT the right starter). The starter bolts to the bell-housing on a 216-235-261, not to the block; that starter bolts to the block, and there's no provision for mounting to the block, on the block. The clutch pressure plate and disc "might" work, as long as the bolt spacing is correct on the flywheel you do wind up using. Find an early style flywheel (get it resurfaced), a rebuilt clutch kit, and a rebuilt starter motor, along with new pilot and throw-out bearings. That's what I would do in your case, but personally, I would go with a later 194-215-230-250-292 style six, and then all those parts you listed would fit those engines. You would need a different bell-housing however. Where are you located? I'm in Everett. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  3. Dyno Dave
    Joined: Feb 18, 2011
    Posts: 291

    Dyno Dave
    Member

    Butch, thanks for your informative reply... I'm keeping the 235, it has the Corvette 3 carb intake & exhaust setup with a Hunt magneto for eye candy... After we get the t5 & rear end installation sorted out for this upcoming season, the following winter months we'll be on to a TCI front end and 261/278" replacement engine install.. Your plan looks good to me, was thinking that the new parts are often just a few dollars more... I'm in Port Hadlock, about 15 minutes south of Port Townsend if ever out this way, give me a call, I'm good for your pie & coffee,
    thanks... Dyno Dave 360-774-6246
     
  4. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 29,048

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Why not just the stock 55 to 61 235 flywheel and pressure plate with a disk that fits the spline on the trans and run a matching 235 12V starter? This really isn't rocket science.
     

  5. jlckmj
    Joined: Oct 28, 2008
    Posts: 59

    jlckmj
    Member

    I just did this swap on my '52 (with a '56 235)
    I used my original resurfaced 9.1 inch flywheel, (same starter)
    new original style pressure plate and clutch kit (original size throw out bearing),
    9.1 inch clutch plate (original size) from a S10 (to match splines),
    vintage metalworks adapter to go from old bell to new trans. (about $150 works great)

    Because no one in this area sells the clutch parts for the '52 separately I ended up with an extra original clutch disc and ordered the S10 disc from Rock Auto.

    Works great, good luck,
    Jim
     
  6. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,187

    RMONTY
    Member

    Bringing this thread back from the "old thread place in the sky...."

    1960 235 from a Chevy truck.
    T5 Transmission from a 1984 S10.
    Rebuilt pressure plate from Chevs of the 40s.
    New clutch disk CD4203, ordered online.
    216 Bell housing and flywheel, as this is going in a 1952 car.

    My issue is this. If I put the disk in like it is supposed to go, the finished surface of the pressure plate has a beveled edge, on the flywheel side, around the opening. The clutch disk doesn't seat flat against the surface of the flywheel. For lack of a better description, it "rocks" because the plate on the disk doesn't drop all the way through the hole in the pressure plate. The plate that holds the springs on the disk seems to be too big around, and the edges of the plate are up against the beveled edge of the pressure plate. Has anyone else experienced this issue?
     
  7. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 8,999

    jimmy six
    Member

    Buffalo enterprises in Oregon sell a plate you bolt on the rear of a 235 to make it think it's a SBC. It comes with a welded on plate for the newer block mounted starter. You can put any bellhousing that fits a SBC on it and the trans you want. There is one on my avatar with a Lakewood can on it. I also have one with one of this automatic starter ring gear. Good luck.
     
    odell13 likes this.
  8. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,187

    RMONTY
    Member

    I have the adapter from Buffalo. I think the issue (if this IS an issue, and I believe it is) is with the clutch disk itself. The plate that houses the dampening springs on the clutch disk is hitting the beveled edge around the inside opening on the pressure plate, and the disk doesn't seat flat against the pressure plate. The instructions that Steve from Buffalo sent say to use a CD4203, which is what I ordered. It seems to me that the edges of the plate that houses the dampening springs are going to grind against the bevel. I hope this makes sense.
     
  9. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,187

    RMONTY
    Member

    Here are some pics to clarify.... IMG_6937.jpg IMG_6938.jpg IMG_6940.jpg
     
  10. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 8,999

    jimmy six
    Member

    I use a clutch from McCleod that has the 3 fingers of a Borg and Beck but the foot pressure of a diaphragm. I've used every brand you can think of and this one has never failed or been a problem.
     

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