So I decided to upgrade the wifeys 66 ford fairlane so it's easier and safer for her to drive. I just finished installing a new power brake booster, new master cylinder, new front discs, new calipers. I also decided that since I had to redo the front brake lines and hoses I might as well replace the rear wheel cylinders in the drums and the rear hose and drain the entire system of the old brake fluid. So the install went fine, I just finished bench bleeding the master cylinder and installed it on the booster and hooked up the brake lines. Now I'm trying to bleed the brakes, well first I need to get fluid in the lines but nothing is happening. I've tried the two person method, open the bleeder push the brake pedal, close the bleeder release the pedal, nothing. I also hooked up a hand pump(Mighty Vac) and tried to get it going that way, nothing. I can't get the fluid to leave the master cylinder and enter the lines, what the heck am I doing wrong? Could something be at fault in the system?
Do you have the lid on while using the vacuum pump? I just did mine using the pump. I pumped the vacuum up then opened the bleeder so it had a lot of pull. Worked well.
Almost has to be the MC. When you bench bleed it was it spraying fluid out the outlets? If so, must be something wrong in you linkage to the MC, must not be pushing the plunger in the MC.
The pedal must be pumped many times initially to get the fluid moving in the lines before the air "bleeding" is effective.
is your bleeder valves on the top or bottom? I put some calipers on a straight axle once and could not get them to bleed... then realized that the left was on the right and right on the left... putting the bleeders down, I turned them around and started getting the air out.
Master cylinder works on the bench, right? Crack a brake line loose at the master cylinder while its on the car. If you can't get it to squirt there, then it's most likely in the way the pedal rod is adjusted. Too long and the rod will hold the piston cup too far forward to properly take in fluid. Too short and it won't push the fluid out. Like post #3 said.
this is most likley the culprit , MC barrel not returning past the compensation port to refill the bore . also its going to take several pumps to fill the lines , I often purge the old fluid out with air then use a turkey baster filled with fluid after I replace the wheel cylinders to fill the lines and purge most of the air out , so the master doesn't have to work as hard to fill the system , or use a pressure bleeder to force it thru the lines as you can air lock the master if the lines are empty on the pedal drawback as air is easier to move than fluid .
Got it!! Turns out the adjustable rod was keeping the piston in the master cylinder from returning all the way back as was suggested. When I took it apart initially to mount the power booster it was adjusted properly but I didn't realize that when I installed the booster that it moved it forward about a 1/4 inch. Also took the advice of filling the lines before putting the master back on. Just stuck a tube on each of the brake lines at the master cylinder and into the brake fluid bottle. Went to each wheel and used the vacuum pump to draw the fluid to each piston. Finished bleeding the brakes and works like a champ. Actually stops better than my 2003 pickup. Thanks everyone for taking the time to respond and help me out, much appreciated...
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