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Projects Help me save/fix this ‘54 Chevy chop

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by punkabilly1306, Nov 18, 2017.

  1. nh-lead-man
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 181

    nh-lead-man
    Member

    Nice ideas on the rubber. On the sail panel I would create a line where the drip rail is and curve it to the upper part of the corner of the glass fill in the existing line the flow would look better, To do that fudge over the entire area looks like a 1/4 inch build up, make a metal template with a small angle grinder and 3 in wheel score the line and then block over the top
     
    19ChevyFleetline50 likes this.
  2. punkabilly1306
    Joined: Aug 22, 2005
    Posts: 2,656

    punkabilly1306
    Member
    from ohio

    You read my mind about using the sail panels and wrap around area from a 49-51! Now I just need to find one! The floors, rockers, and mounts are solid ...so I’m not ready to give up on this car because of a poor chop.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    belair and Squablow like this.
  3. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 4,307

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    Yep, you need to find a 49-51 shell that's rusted up to the beltline and nab the roof.
    Or, if you like the 54 wraparound rear glass, grab an entire 53/54 roof.
    Just as I suspected: that entire window surround is bondo sculpted like modeling clay. I never understood that bodywork mentality as a shortcut. Seems it would take much more in labor hours to sand an sculpt bondo to shape than to spend a few more hours doing the metal work correctly.
    I think Squablow is correct in that, someone got in way over their heads on the chop and covered it up with all that icing in order to unload it.
    I'd take a magnet to the rest of the panels too and confirm they didn't do any welding, etc. on the chassis. Pay close attention to brake and fuel line engineering, use of standard (non grade 8) hardware and other "workmanshit".
     
    Pgaines likes this.
  4. crashfarmer
    Joined: Apr 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,274

    crashfarmer
    Member
    from Iowa

    Just my opinion but I don't like the flow of the roofline in the back (between the green arrows). I think it looks like it almost looks like goes up behind the b pillar.

    Roofline.jpg

    Personally I'd think it would look better with that section of the roof sloped down in the rear and replace the rear window with a non-wraparound style.

    Roofline2.jpg
     
  5. crashfarmer
    Joined: Apr 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,274

    crashfarmer
    Member
    from Iowa

    This might be a little better but it kind of is the idea anyway.
    Roofline2.jpg
     
    fauj and 62hotcat like this.
  6. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 8,339

    anthony myrick
    Member

    Cole Foster used a 50 plymouth rear roof section
    foster.jpg
    I have seen the 49-50 rear window used as well
    50 ford.jpg
    you have a ton of work ahead of you, good luck and keep us posted
     
    Stogy likes this.
  7. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 8,339

    anthony myrick
    Member

  8. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 15,236

    Squablow
    Member

    Crashfarmers illustration is exactly what i was referring to.

    I just stripped a junk 52 that would have been a perfect donor if you were closer by. You'll find what you need. Might have to ignore the roof and focus on other areas for a while when you're searching but the right roof piece is out there. A 4 door donor will work fine, they all share the same roof skin stamping.

    Sent from my LG-M153 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Stogy and 62hotcat like this.
  9. punkabilly1306
    Joined: Aug 22, 2005
    Posts: 2,656

    punkabilly1306
    Member
    from ohio

    Stogy and anthony myrick like this.
  10. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 18,470

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    4-door roof skins are indeed excellent donors.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  11. That one looks great, I like the cut down rear window,
    That's what I was referring to @punkabilly1306 in my PM about my rear window. From the perspective of rear fender corner, The stock 50 rear window looks a little "big" cause it doesn't taper down with the rear 1/4 windows.

    I'm on a PC now, so here is a link to a bunch of pics on mine
    http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/journal.php?action=view&journalid=50999&page=1&reverse=1
     
  12. Extend the lip for the rubber as needed and look at all the rubber options one of them will work.
     
  13. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 5,037

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member

    I have to be totally honest, I think the rear window is the least of your concerns. That angled door frame and horrific quarter window are reason enough to cut the whole roof off and start again. I hope this car came cheap because you're in for more work than it you bought one unchopped.
     
    Chrisbcritter and 49ratfink like this.
  14. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 5,042

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    I think crashfarmer is on the right track. The top looks too thick above the door and quarter window, if you could get it down to the thickness directly above the steering wheel and carry it all the way back above the quarter window it would look better. Now I have no idea how to do that, lots of pie cuts and welding I guess.....
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  15. coupe33
    Joined: Nov 23, 2004
    Posts: 631

    coupe33
    Member

    Just wondering where you are at on how to fix this chop? I also have one to fix and I keep looking at the body lines on yours. With all the input there are more ways to look at this than I thought.
     
  16. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 5,629

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    IMG_2104.JPG Here's a picture of the backglass in my 150. It came from a Belair four door.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  17. punkabilly1306
    Joined: Aug 22, 2005
    Posts: 2,656

    punkabilly1306
    Member
    from ohio

    I'm currently trying to get a '50 Ford rear window and a bit of the surrounding metal to fix my chop. I'm going to brace the body, cut out the old window, relief cut the upper skin on the roof to lay it down so that it flows properly and looks good going into the shoebox rear window, then I'll make new panels to fill in the gaps.
     
  18. coupe33
    Joined: Nov 23, 2004
    Posts: 631

    coupe33
    Member

    I don't know if you looked at twisted sister's 54 radical chopped Chevy coupe but he used a 46 Ford coupe rear window it is always good to have more than one option.
     
    55hdyman likes this.
  19. hemifalcon
    Joined: Mar 20, 2008
    Posts: 379

    hemifalcon
    Member

    I think it’d be cool if you gave up on trying to fix that garbage chop—and build it into a ‘54 El Camino!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  20. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 5,037

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member

    Let's be real here, this is a parts car. I applaud the OP's zeal in trying to fix this, but 53/54 Chevys are not rare nor particularly expensive, even as 2 doors, and especially as sedans as opposed to a hardtop. Finding another car, even one that doesn't run, would be the first thing I do here. You can basically make one good car out of the two.
     
  21. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 8,339

    anthony myrick
    Member

    The folks that say to abort the mission are 99.9% correct

    I like .01% odds
     
    0NE BAD 51 MERC and NWRacing like this.
  22. autoworx1
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 304

    autoworx1
    Member
    from kansas

    20180428_110532.jpg This is a similar chop that I did on mine. 4" front, 6" rear. Back glass is slid forward 4". Corners of backglass are sunk approximately 1". The backglass' on these cars are real tricky. The comment about spending a couple hours of metal work to avoid using filler as modeling clay is a little misguided. That should be stated as "days" of metal work. There are so many angles/shapes happening around the back window, quarter panel, roof, drip rails, quarter window opening....the list goes on and on. All of this has to be done while retaining a roofline that "flows" well and looks good to the eye. It's very, very difficult. I would guess this is why most do change to a different make, model and year rear window. Less work and also allows for more chop. The factory backglass on a '53-54 really limits your options on the chop.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2018
  23. haileyp1014
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 930

    haileyp1014
    Member
    from so cal

    Go to planned parenthood and abort this asap.Car looks very sad. Like an abandoned Craigslist project. No drip rails, tons of mud .decent project for $500.
     
  24. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 29,781

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I just spotted this in a group I am in on FB. The second photo pretty well shows you what he is doing with the rear window. Joel Davis Chevy side.jpg Joel Davis Chevy.jpg
     
  25. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 5,037

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member

    That's some really outstanding work there. It's so rare to see a good chop with the factory glass in these, it's really refreshing. Major respect.
     
  26. autoworx1
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 304

    autoworx1
    Member
    from kansas

    20171119_113828.jpg
    Thanks for the kind words. I'll be honest, I was really close to putting a '52 backglass in mine last summer.

    This was the first chop I've ever done on a 50's car. They just take time. With a lot of patience and continually stepping back 20-40 feet to make sure it looked right, it eventually started to pay off. I think this car could be saved but unfortunately I think it's going to require another roof or at the very least require a backglass section. You don't need all the fancy tools you see on TV either. English wheels and planishing hammers are luxuries, not necessities. Get down to the bare metal and make it happen. Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
    Countn'Carbs, 0nedon and RMONTY like this.
  27. 0nedon
    Joined: Oct 20, 2017
    Posts: 340

    0nedon
    Member

    Really cool car you could put it in my garage anytime!
     
  28. coupe33
    Joined: Nov 23, 2004
    Posts: 631

    coupe33
    Member

    I was looking at some Buick tail lights for my car that in the opinion of the 99% 'rs is junk also.
    I know back when I was in my teens the 49 through 54 Chevie's were $ 25 to $100 but I am pretty sure if I came across one for $500 I would step right up. I must be living in the wrong side of reality
     
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  29. The Buick taillights look like they belong there, so much better than the originals


    Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
     
    autoworx1 likes this.
  30. autoworx1
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 304

    autoworx1
    Member
    from kansas

    Thanks. The inside of the taillight sections only needed a couple relief cuts to get the fit pretty close. The bottom of the taillight that's hidden below the bumper was a different story. The factory Chevrolet quarter panel is too short at the bottom to meet bottom of the bumper. To fix this issue I had to remove the lower rear quarter panels and make new ones that were 3" longer so that the bottom of the quarter panel and bumper lined up. The pleasant surprise from doing this was how much of a straight line that was created across the rocker panel of the car. A stock '54 car swoops up towards the rear bumper.
     

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