Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Help me do better than self-tappers

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by radarsonwheels, Apr 18, 2019.

  1. radarsonwheels
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 191

    radarsonwheels
    Member
    from Philly

    howdy hamb!

    I got my hotrod ‘54 dodge pickup running then took it apart to mess with the trans, paint the underside without the driveline in the way, and tighten up any fitment issues or cheesy mock-up stuff that I can’t let slide on the final build up.

    One glaring item was the running boards which looked ok until you open the doors and reveal the swiss cheese underneath- right where shoes wore off the paint and the rain drips off the cab. Luckily I sectioned the boards a foot and had material to make patch panels. This is an old farm truck and while I am trying to make it nice I don’t hide the evidence of repairs. I just want functionality and NO RATTLES! Haha

    So I have the ugly but greatly improved boards attached to the 1/8” square tube brackets with six #10 stainless self tapping screws. I don’t want to nut & bolt them because the boards and brackets are the lowest part of the truck- just over scrub height.

    Would I come out ahead to drill & tap 1/4-20? Or should I lift the chassis high enough to drill the bottoms of the supports for socket access to do short 1/4-20 bolts with nylocks that live up in there? The front brackets are smaller tube and can get thru-bolted. D152695D-0D4D-406B-9537-6A90F1F37E74.jpeg

    Or is my instinct wrong that the screws are cheesy and they will be fine or I should put in a few more and call it good?

    Not looking to do rivnuts.

    Thanks
    Radar
     
  2. I would use carriage head bolts, they are as close as your local hardware store and probably what was used from the factory. HRP

    CHB.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2019
  3. cshades
    Joined: Sep 2, 2011
    Posts: 451

    cshades
    Member
    from wi

    put rivet nuts in the mounts and use a button head stainless bolt for the boards
     
  4. Terrible80
    Joined: Oct 1, 2010
    Posts: 723

    Terrible80
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes, self tappers are cheesy. drill and tap from top , put a nice Panhead or flathead if you have enough material thickness to countersink.

    Sent from my LG-TP450 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    patmanta likes this.
    Register now to get rid of these ads!

  5. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,832

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Look for truss head bolts. They have a larger head than a normal button head Allen bolt.

    I would tap the tubing for 1/4" NF if it's thick enough or drill the hole bigger and weld nuts into the holes for more thread engagement. If you have a nutsert tool available that's a nice option, too.

    SPark
     
    lake_harley likes this.
  6. radarsonwheels
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 191

    radarsonwheels
    Member
    from Philly

    Ok so any excuse to buy a new tool right? I ordered a rivet nut tool, 100 1/4-20 nutserts, and a few 23/64” drill bits. Primo cold connections until the insert spins and it’s torch & grinder time...
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  7. pirate
    Joined: Jun 29, 2006
    Posts: 395

    pirate
    Member
    from Alabama

    I have done the same and like the look of the button head screws. Also will mention I have also used a lot of Apex Rivets or aircraft Cherry Rivets. When the right sized diameter and length is used the installation looks good and is also structurally sound.
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  8. Oldb
    Joined: Apr 25, 2010
    Posts: 165

    Oldb
    Member

    X2 on button head.
     
  9. Whats wrong with they way they mounted originally? Bolts from the bottom into the running board, don’t see anything and nothing hangs down.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  10. Massage head smooth as well and paint.
     
  11. radarsonwheels
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 191

    radarsonwheels
    Member
    from Philly

    C0C49D0A-2191-4247-8970-4ADCAA746EFA.jpeg 87EC495F-3E3A-403C-AF8A-EE4C00CC151F.jpeg 6AF11A87-8E90-4D99-9F53-BEE6E08A35A7.jpeg My board’s original hidden mounting brackets spot welded to the bottom side were almost totally rusted away. I chiseled them off and patched the boards with the leftover pieces from sectioning them. The original brackets got cut off when I shortened my 3/4 ton chassis a foot and after channeling the body over the shortened boxed & heavily modified frame I made new square tube brackets welded to the frame. My truck sits low now like 4” ride height with about an inch of rake.

    The rivnuts worked great. I had allens laying around so I bolted the boards down with washers. It ain’t goin nowhere or rattling and nothing hangs below my brackets which are flush with the bottom of the board sides and also the lowest part of my truck.

    I like restoration work but this is not that! She’s still got a lot of beater farm truck in her but sitting low with a mopar big block stroker she’s now mostly handbuilt and a totally different animal. The truck wasn’t nice enough to restore which I took as a licence to butcher.
     
  12. radarsonwheels
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 191

    radarsonwheels
    Member
    from Philly

  13. You can use carriage bolts just like Chevy & Ford did them, in your case drill the top of your running board mount to except a 1/4" or 3/8" carriage bolt and drill a large hole in the bottom the be able to get a nut and socket up inside, easy done and will come off looking factory. HRP
     
    radarsonwheels likes this.
  14. radarsonwheels
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 191

    radarsonwheels
    Member
    from Philly

    0913428B-3CE8-4691-97D4-5752E9266AF2.jpeg Interior. Definitely not stock!
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2019
  15. radarsonwheels
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 191

    radarsonwheels
    Member
    from Philly

    Not a bad idea. The black oxide and stainless are invisible in the gloss paint until you get close enough to see that the rest of the truck is a heap but maybe I’ll do that on a buddy’s lift later so Im not rolling around in the dirt
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.