Help me build a low truck that can tow.

I've got a 48 Chevy 1-ton. Sits sky high. Stock 216 that can't make much power but it's geared to pull stumps and drag heavy loads at slow speeds.

I've got a 6000lb trailer that I think it will pull just fine. But I want this truck to ALSO be able to sit on the ground. Can I do that with a newer 14-bolt rearend + notched frame + bags? What to do about the front end? Most of the conversions I see are S-10 clips or M-II hardware. I'm thinking I'll want something heavier duty, right?

Just to be clear, I don't want to pull this trailer very far or very fast. It's my boat trailer and I need to go 1-mile and top out at 30mph. I know stopping is the most important part and the trailer has good brakes and (my plan) would involve at least putting some decent discs on the new axles. Help me brainstorm this!

 

Thanks for the response! To address your final question: I think it's because I'm confused. I want a cool cruiser. And I ALSO want to keep things in my driveway to a minimum. Right now, I look in my garage and see a horribly ugly 1993 F-250 that's sole purpose in life is to irritate me, break down at the worst times, take up room, drink gas, and tow my boat. My 48 is certainly a handful of those things, but at least looks cool.

But the 48 currently serves no "practical" (read: girlfriend approved) purpose. Building it to do double-duty would fix that problem and free up some space in my driveway.

 

I've been thinking about finding a mid 70's one ton dualie to rob for parts to put and independent front end and later model rear end under my 51 1-1/2 ton to get it a lot lower and make a truck I can use and drive on a regular basis.

 

I found a 1992 3/4 Suburban locally that I considered doing the same thing with. Just not sure how much it can drop it with the heavy-duty axles. Haven't seen many big trucks that sit low. Even been trying to research what they are doing on the modern trucks but haven't been able to figure it out....

For instance: How are they dropping the front end on this truck?

 

Just watched an episode of "Gearz" where they put airbags on that Heavy Metal International. There's some company out there that makes bags and does suspension work on heavier stuff. They probably have a reference on the show's web site.

Good luck

 

That truck is bagged.

To start with unless your truck is hanging from the rafters it is already sitting on the ground.

You can lower it by using shortish coils on a trailing arm in the rear then get Air/Ride helper bags for when you want to tow. With the short springs it is going to ride like a lumber wagon but being what it is it probably already rides that way.

For the front just use a dropped axle or if you want to go totally modern get the couils from a coil spring ford, build some spring pockets on the frame horns and a pan hard bar with trailing arms again to locate it. Move the spring pockets until it sits where you want it to sit.

A total bag job will do two bad things for you, one you will be blowing bags right and left when you throw a load in it and two making one lay the running boards when it is parked just blows period.

Build it low but drivable and you will have it in spades.

 

Thank you. This is exactly the type of information that I was hoping to find on here. Yes, it does currently ride like a lumber wagon. Maybe worse than that.

I can find up to 4" dropped axles for the front but 4" of drop will probably only get me close to stock 1/2 ton range. I can't see more than that clearing. Seems like it would have to be changed over to some kind of IFS.

Are you saying that I could make a modern heavy-duty ford front-end work? Looks like there are ample options for lowering and bag kits for these. What would I use for a crossmember?

 

I was actually thinking more along the lines of the early live axle setup. It can be done with a beam axle and you don't have the camber problems as bad as with the IFS and bags.

Take your stock axle and have it dropped by one of the fellas on here that drops axles. The Raven has a 6" drop in his half ton AD and it is a stretch drop like they did in the old days. Sid drops axles I don't remember his screen name, and does a damned good job.

If you are builfing spring pockets you can adjust your ride height when you build the towers for them or hats or what ever they proper name is these days. WEith coils on both ends it is going to really soften up the ride and you use the rear bags to stiffen it when it needs it.

It doesn't need to scrape to be cool and you can stil, get one too low to drive over a big speed bump and still drive it.

 

Thanks so much. Sounds cheap and (sort of) easy. Perfect! I don't need to scrape and it sounds like your solution is perfect.

 

My solutions are only as flawed as my thinking.

 

So, you only need to tow 6000lbs. 1 mile and at 30 mph?

 

If you're going to build a hauler consider a crew cab (every good road trip needs witnesses). A local friend is building this (post #808), it was already a crew cab, adding the big window detail is what required the surgery, it should end up plenty low and able to tow with the best of them.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8147078#post8147078

 

Basically. Just my house to the lake and back.

 

My "crew" is usually headed to the lake on skateboards or bicycles. (Actually, more often than not, my lady volunteers to drive the trailer.)

 

if you want to lay frame in the back then you will have to step notch it which will pretty much compromise any way of towing that much weight.

 

I figured it would need a notch. The 1-tons barely have any kind of kick-up in the back. Nothing like the 1/2 tons. What compromises it? The geometry of the step or the potential of failure in the welds?

 

He's talking about taking up bed room.

 

Then you need to do nothing besides get a drop reciever tongue.

 

my F3 ford pickup is dropped, have a look in my album for some of the rear suspension pic's for one idea of how to do it.

 

A little more than that. The existing hitch is just a ball hitch built into an extended section of the frame. No receiver on this old thing. Universal bolt on probably wouldn't be wide enough so it would take some fab.

But don't think I haven't considered it.

 

And that would be why you are here....

 

when you notch it, it will create a big pivot point and is asking for failure if you want to tow that much. a small trailer probably wouldnt be bad but a whole boat would be pushing it. all the leverage on the notch is risky. I notched an AD truck and it is solid but i would never hook a boat to it

 

This may help you:

"This model replicates the popular bolt in notch, it gains you about 3-1/2" additional clearance. It captures the bottom and the outside of the frame and is ¼” thick. The frame is not boxed. FEA reveals the frame is 80% weaker than stock.

Bolt In Type Notch




The half circle notch is slightly stronger than stock (about 10%) and gives about 8" more travel.

Half Circle Notch FEA

If you want the frame to be as strong as stock and you want a frame notch deeper than the 2" there is simply no substitute for adding some sort of truss structure, or replacing the frame section with another structural member that has the same or greater section height as the original frame."


Read more details at:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=457037
​

.

 

Hey Guys !! This member is talking about a ONE ton truck TRUCK right???Not a pick up?
The frame on those is straight front to back.
Low ridin' one ton is gonna be a little more work.
Leaf Springs and big ones in the rear
Is yours a 3800 series?
You could drop the axle. (then cut the fenders to clear wheels)???Mine has 700 X 18 inch wheels.
I have a 1950 3800 short 10 foot dump bed and I can't imagine dropping it thus making it useless as a truck. Anything can be done if you want it that bad.
Cool is a hell of a lot of work

 

I did my old 1 ton a few years ago using a 48 1 1/2 ton frame and a 81 chevy C30 front and rear.It is not lowered much, you can get springs ,bags or spindles to lower it in front.Do a notch and bags or blocks in the rear.

 

Beautiful truck!!! Now that is a nice tow vehicle...

 

In concept, I like your idea. My only concern is that, at least around here, a very low truck and boat ramps just do not work.

 

It's a straight frame. Correct. 700x18 tires (that need to be thrown out.) It's a flat bed, so no need to cut fenders out.

Beautiful truck. Looks like it sits about the same height as a stock 1/2 ton?

No problem here. We have two choices: sand and concrete. My boat is heavy enough to get stuck in the sand, so I don't use it. The concrete ramps are well maintained and wouldn't be a problem.

 

Yes. After i put in the C30 front i cut 1 or 1 1/2 coils nothing else so you could do bags or cut coils and dropped spindles to go lower. 16" tires also.

 

Will the existing hitch support 6000 lbs?