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Help identify year of small block ford motor ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by luapsed, Apr 11, 2013.

  1. luapsed
    Joined: Jun 2, 2012
    Posts: 22

    luapsed
    Member
    from Fords, NJ

    I just bought a 65 Falcon and it has a replacement 302 motor in it now. Is there anyway I can identify the year of motor from casting numbers. It has a stock 2 barrel and points ignition. Any thoughts ?
     

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  2. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 4,014

    48fordnut
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Look on the intake,for some numbers,d=60's,e=70's. for instance a 65 number would read D5 and some more numbers. The intake can be changed. There are other ways, but the best is above the starter it will have the number there.
     
  3. brad chevy
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    brad chevy
    Member

    Right behind the starter on bottom of block numbers will tell you what it is.
     
  4. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,550

    powrshftr
    Member

    It's actually C ='60's,D='70's,E= '80's.
    Intakes are too easy to swap out,so I wouldn't really trust dating the entire motor from the intake casting number.
     

  5. 53 effie
    Joined: Oct 21, 2004
    Posts: 237

    53 effie
    Member

    Think you have the decade wrong for "D". It's 70s.. "C" is correct for 1960s and would read C5 for 1965 casting.
     
  6. R.Grundy
    Joined: Sep 3, 2012
    Posts: 22

    R.Grundy
    Member
    from Sarnia Ont

    good lookin falcon. the valve covers look late 60s early 70s. the thermostat housing looks like a late model 5.0 engine, so does the extension for the oil pressure sender. pull the starter off and look at the number on the engine block
     
  7. Ford blue blood
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 694

    Ford blue blood
    Member

    The valve cover bolts have the stud on them for the plug wire harness, t-stat housing might put it in the early 80s.......
     
  8. tylercrawford
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 726

    tylercrawford
    Member
    from Buford, GA
    1. S.F.C.C.

    I'd go with mid 80s as well. The water pump, thermostat housing, and oil pressure extension put it around then.

    Hopefully you didn't get stuck with a 255. I bought a parts falcon once with a v8 and only upon taking it apart did I realize that it had tiny bores. The cranks are worth $60-100 though.
     
  9. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 4,014

    48fordnut
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks all for the correction. My face is red. Sorry for the misinformation.
     
  10. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 8,897

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    Give this a look: http://www.mre-books.com/interchange/interchange2.html Probably wouldn't hurt to buy the book.
     
  11. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Ford block numbers are upside-down on the side of the block in the area above the starter. Pain in the a$$ to see. Can't figure why they'd put them there.


    By the way, the first two digits tell you the year of design, not necessarily of manufacture. In other words, a D4 (1974) means that this style block was first produced in 1974, even if it was built in 1976.

    Pre-1970 SBF water pumps exited on the passenger side, after that they went to driver's side. With an engine that old anything could have been changed.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2013
  12. rustang
    Joined: Sep 10, 2009
    Posts: 710

    rustang
    Member

    I would go with a late 60's '70s-80's block.... the valve covers look like '69, the oil pressure extension was used a number of years, but the crank dampner looks like a '69 or much later... the fuel pump is an odd one however...

    The casting numbers on the block will tell you more....this will at least narrow down the casting...
     
  13. The fuel pump is an electric mounted near where the stock mechanical one would be.
     
  14. This thing is a mismash of parts, and looks like recently stuck in judging by new bolts on the exhaust manifolds.
    Dist is very early (has oiling holes). Thermostat housing is very late. Water pump is early style, looks like cast iron not aluminum. The whole thing reaks of "Rattle Can Rebuild"
     
  15. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 6,977

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    Yep, looks like a hodgepodge to me! But that's okay, it's a (nearly) 50yr old Falcon, that's to be expected.

    Perhaps Henry Floored can tell us what it is. :D
     
  16. rustang
    Joined: Sep 10, 2009
    Posts: 710

    rustang
    Member

    On my fine Tommy Yakamoto 15" work computor it looks like a can opener..... :)
     
  17. luapsed
    Joined: Jun 2, 2012
    Posts: 22

    luapsed
    Member
    from Fords, NJ

    It says I believe on intakeD10E-8425-AA. I'm not too sure on the eight though. I didn't get a chance to look at the block. I've never seen a electric fuel pump with no block off plate, but I'm not a Ford expert that's why I asked.
    Yeah she's just nutz and bolts pieced together with chewing gum, but she's all mine and I like her. The idiot before me ripped the entire harness out and didn't save any pig tails and just rigged the car to run. So I'm not too surprised with the motor. Thanks fer the help though.
     
  18. Well the intake is a 1971 then.
    If there is no fuel pump provision in the timing cover, then it is a late cover from a 5.0 injected motor.
     
  19. Relic Stew
    Joined: Apr 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,142

    Relic Stew
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    The dipstick in the side of the block or pan is 80's as well. The front sump (pre-'78) engines had the dipstick in the timing cover.
     
  20. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 7,992

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    I noticed it has a 289 or 68-9 302 water pump,you might want to see if it has the correct timing pointer.
     
  21. luapsed
    Joined: Jun 2, 2012
    Posts: 22

    luapsed
    Member
    from Fords, NJ

    Ok, i pulled starter and the small number right above say 8A29 then I see larger numbers and letters on block 23 ETTE S

    The transmission has a number on the body RF-E9Dp-7600-AA. Tag on trans says PKAEC31. Any of this make sense?
     
  22. Relic Stew
    Joined: Apr 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,142

    Relic Stew
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Is it E7TE? The 7 does look like a T. That would be an '87-up 5.0 block. 8A29 would be the casting date, 1988, January 29. It is roller cam ready, if it doesn't already have one in it.

    The old distributor cast iron gear isn't compatible with a roller cam. You can pull a pushrod to check if you have a roller. Roller pushrods are 6.25", flat tappet are 6.85". The early distributors have a smaller diameter shaft (.467") than the later roller cam distributors (.531"), so a factory steel gear may not work.

    May need one of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-29418/

    The trans is an '89-up AOD. It needs a throttle valve cable. I don't see anything like that in the engine pic. You'll burn up the clutches without one.
     

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  23. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,550

    powrshftr
    Member

    If you have an E7 block you hit the jackpot.FRPP cams are around on Craig's list for $50!Those are great motors that look visually identical to a 64 289:)
     
  24. luapsed
    Joined: Jun 2, 2012
    Posts: 22

    luapsed
    Member
    from Fords, NJ

    I pulled a push rod and it measured 6.25, I'm guessing the roller cam is in there. So is this motor worth keeping along with trans ?
     
  25. 5.0inthe610
    Joined: Apr 26, 2011
    Posts: 9

    5.0inthe610
    Member

    These motors will make a considerable amount of power, for cheap if you want them too. And just like powrshftr says, there are always parts on Craigslist for them... A shift kit in that trans. will wake it up beyond belief as well.
     
  26. SLCK64
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 493

    SLCK64
    Member

    Minus the fact that the 302 is 6bolt and the 289 is 5 bolt block.
     
  27. luapsed
    Joined: Jun 2, 2012
    Posts: 22

    luapsed
    Member
    from Fords, NJ

    I have no idea how many miles the motor has, but I would like to get some more out of it. Any suggestions ? I would like to change intake, carb and distributor at this point. Not looking to pull the motor. Thanks again
     
  28. 5.0inthe610
    Joined: Apr 26, 2011
    Posts: 9

    5.0inthe610
    Member

    Any good name brand intake and carb will be fine, it is whatever you prefer. Holley has a nice interactive carb finder you could use. check the link below. If you were looking to change the cam ford makes a few "cookie cutters' that perform just fine for those engines. Depending on what power range and sound you are looking for, would determine which one obviously.. I run a TFS stage "2" cam, and love it's driveability and lumpy sound. For brute strength and lumpy idle, I'd suggest the "F" cam... You will need a good set of rockers then as well. 1.6 rockers should suffice, although those shallow valve covers you have there might not work with them. These 5.0 HO engines are fairly easy to work on, as you will find. Do not buy cheap chinese rockers, they are known to break and cause major damage. go with crane or ford brand. As far as distributor, I run a MSD pro billet on my 92 Mustang without any problems.



    http://www.holley.com/applications/CarburetorSelector/CarbSelection.asp
     
  29. Only early 289's are 5 bolt. later ones are 6 bolt. and that isn't really noticeable once it's in the car.
     
  30. SLCK64
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 493

    SLCK64
    Member

    Exactly. I was addressing the fact that someone said the 5.0 will be visually identical to a '64 289. We are all on the same page.

    Speaking of which anyone have a good, rebuildable 64/65 289?
     

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