You have to make an offer on it or you want to sell it? Worth changes with situation I suppose. Newer then '36 would be my guess and no newer then 40.
It has juice brakes which were introduced in 1939 so that's my guess if the front wheels are any indication. HRP
Its a 35-40 passenger car frame with 36-39 drums and wheels. Whats-it-worth is impossible to answer. Whats it worth if you get it free? Whats it worth if you sell it for $300? Whats it worth if your buyer sells it for $900? This is not Walmart with a set price on every item. Worth is determined in each case and is never the same twice in a row.
'35ish, surface rust, complete with later brakes. Someone on here would love to have it if they are gathering parts for a build. I don't even build old Fords but would pay $500 just to save it for later.
That's most likely a 1939 frame. It's a 35-40 frame with the 39 only juice wide 5's, assuming all that is original equipment on there. On the east coast, the last comparable roller I was was selling for between $400 and $600 with the steering box in it. Parted out you could probably get a lot more depending on demand. That's a desirable rear with or without the brakes. The rear brakes are a hot item if the parking hardware is in them... etc... It really depends how much effort you want to put in and time you have to monetize it.
If you already got it, why do you want to know what it's worth? If you got a chassis with axles and springs, you should save your questions till your build thread! ☺
Find the frame number and you can tell exactly what year. Look here: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_serialnumbers.htm
That is an EXTREMELY rare chassis... go spend lots of money on a body, lots more on a resto, and sell it at Mecum . Was that what you were hoping for ?
Maybe he just wants to sell it, and get a fair price? Thing is, prices (asking) are all over the board on those frames and the chassis parts, don't expect a $1000.00, but don't give it away either. That really narrowed it down for ya Edit: Get the pedal assy off, and see if any holes were enlarged for the mount, if so, then it'd be '38 and older (think juiced brakes started in '39) but if all the holes are clean, I'd think '39. Assuming you can't read the s/n's.
If unaltered,... it can only be a 1939 But you know that by now... Look closely at the kick-up in the rear of the frame..... They LOVE to rust there.
Hey Big Dan as they said earlier in the thread it is 35/40 Ford car frame, I have one (good rust free) came out of a pick-up truck and have been trying to sell it for 300.00 dollars so what ever you can get will be a good price. Mine has good cross members, steering plate, pedal assembly, good x member. I hope you have better luck then me. If anyone is looking for one PM me, would like to move it, could use the buck toward my Willys Sedan.
The serial number which is stamped on top of the left rail near the steering box mount should confirm that it is a '39. 60 HP serial numbers have a 54- prefix, 85 HP will have an 18-prefix. This frame came with the 85 HP engine as the crossmember does not have the riveted-on ears to support the 60 HP motor mounts.. 85 HP front mounts sit directly on the front crossmember, 60 HP mounts sit behind the crossmember on those riveted-on ears that are unique to the 60 HP. The body mounts riveted to the outside of the rails indicate that it had a passenger car body, these are omitted on pickup frames.
On second look, I think Bruce may be right--the brake line plumbing does not look factory, so it may be an older frame that was changed to hydraulics. The serial number will tell you for sure.
Don't the large holes in the X member tell you what year it is? I was thinking 35-36, and we can't see the rear wishbones. Bob
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